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Discussion Starter #1
:cool:hows it goin out there!! :D i am starting to plan out a sound system. i wanted to go simple at first , just the usual suspects some new speakers, a single 12'' sub ,and a few hundred watt amp and call it a night....BUT... i just got a brand new pair soundstream 15''subs out the street smart store ;-) ;-) and i fell in love with them and i want to use them but i want to do it right not just throughem in the back i was wondering what u guys would consider a good set up (as in brand and model of speakers, tweeters, and amp that would give me a Kick A$$ sound for under 1-2$$$ grand or am i lookin at a huge price tag by going with the big boys???? any input or ideas will be very helpful :D:D thanx....Keep BOUNCING:cool:
 

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Way back in the day I had Soundstream SPL 15s in my s10.
I have a US Amp in my Subaru that I'm guessing 15 years old powering my midbase ADS setup and a cheap digital amp powering my 12" Diamond Audio sub.

The element is currently running 2 12" Boston subs with a small amp and the factory system.
I will probably update the rest next year with Boston componets, midbase, and tweets, switch the Boston amp to those and add a bigger one for the subs, maybe upgrading to 4 12"s.
 

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I have an idea that I have been messing around with but have yet to attempt.

The extra door pocket storage in the front doors. What if you were to fabricate this area to accommodate 7" or 8" midbass drivers?

Then go with a single 12" or in this case, a single 15" sub. All you really need the 15 for is 50hz and below.

This would give you a good mix of midbass up front, and sonic low end from the 15.

Any old school audio freaks will remember Richard Clark's Buick Grand National. He won numerous Audio Competitions with this car. His setup...2-15" Woofers, 2-10" midbass woofers, and 2 Waveguides...all USD products.

The E" is so spacious on the inside...this mix would probably kick ass!

just a thought.

Ed.
 

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Any old school audio freaks will remember Richard Clark's Buick Grand National. He won numerous Audio Competitions with this car. His setup...2-15" Woofers, 2-10" midbass woofers, and 2 Waveguides...all USD products.

The E" is so spacious on the inside...this mix would probably kick ass!

just a thought.

Ed.
I always think back to that Grand National. That was built by the guys at SpeakerWorks out in Cali (Orange?) before Rich bought it. He helped develop the noise gate technology you see in a lot of products these days. IIRC those 15's were mounted in aperiodic enclosures. That car was built for massive clear SPL and very objective scoring (hitting numbers or values). Anyway you don't see the waveguides used much anymore but I like the idea of using different subwoofers for each bottom octave. If I had the coin I'd like to try using a stealthbox like enclosure up front to handle 50Hz to 100Hz and drop a 12 or 15 in the spare tire well to handle 25Hz to 50Hz.
 

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Will you be fabricating the enclosure & installing it yourself, or does the budget have to include professional installation?
 

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I've been pretty happy with my Elemental Designs e9.65i's as front (and only) speakers. I've had a couple other setups that I liked pretty well also. I did have to do a decent amount of fabrication to the doors to make them fit, and still haven't finished all the 'finish' work though. I had some mids and tweeters mounted in a kickpanel enclosure at one point (which are actually just laying around right now). They sounded great, but being 6'2" w/ long legs, I needed my legroom. If you're good at fabricating stuff, you could go with an active 3-way front setup which would be pretty awesome. As far as make and models go, it really depends on why type of setup and how much fabrication you can and will be willing to do as to what you need to get. That being said with a 1-2K budget, you should be able to get a pretty nice setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Hey guys its been quite a while since I have been able to get back in the swing of working on my E. But now after getting married, getting laid off, getting a new job and just recently finding out I'm gonna be a dad I found some spare time to work on my car and get it done. I had a lot of time to think about it and I still have my heart set on those 2-15" soundstreams. And I started building the rest of the sealed box and a shelf to cover it all in the trunk, so I could use some help with choosing stuff and doing the right things to enhance the sound without blowing my budget on stuff I don't really need. I'm still gonna be doing all the work myself so I figure I'm must be saving a lot on labor alone. I just need to figure out what brands to go with for value, I wanted to do all Pioneer for all the speakers but talking to some friend from work they all say they are crap now compared to how the used to be but they are a decent price and can't be that bad,(???) Also I wanted to get a extra set of 6x9s to slip into the self over the 15s for extra sound but I'm afraid that being over the 15s will eliminate them from being heard cause of the heavy bass. What do you guys suggest I do? I know I'm there bass wise but for sound I don't know-- so far my lay out is gonna be 4-6x5s, 2 6x9s, 8 tweeters 2 subs) I'm still working on what amp size should be sufficient, and how much does a crossover go for, and should I get a resinater cap if really needed. Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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Since your going for bass over sound quality, I would suggest either an inline bass/amp control knob or a decent head unit with the feature built in thats easily accessible. Honestly, those two 15's are overkill and since your heading into being a father, lost space in the vehicle as well. Have you considered pulling the spare tire and glassing a box in a hidden floor? Im running two Polk 10's and two Alpine PDX amps in the spare tire cavity with a false floor that leaves the entire floor usable. Im sure two 12's would fit as well but the two 10's are more than my ears could possibly handle and they sound great.

In regards to a "resinater cap", whats that? Do you mean a port for the box or a power capacitor? If its the latter, dont waste your money on a power cap but focus those funds on your power wire and battery. The E has a higher output alternator so if everything is run proper, you shouldnt have problems unless your going to try and run thousands of watts. Im running about 1200 watts RMS and have no problems. The stock battery was swapped out for a red top.

Modern head units have built in crossovers and eq's so no need for a stand alone unit. If you go for separates vs coax speakers, they will also have crossovers, same with the amps. It can get tricky dialing all those in to work together but think of what frequencies are to be going where and it will all make sense quickly.

I would say you can ditch the 6x9's and 8 tweeters and the two 15's in favor of two sets of 6.5 components (thats four 6.5's and four tweeters with crossovers), two 10" or 12" woofers, and if you have the factory woofer enclosure up that one with a decent 6.5" (I have seen people upgrade it to an 8') and a small amp to run it. That way you can run a single four way amp for the 6.5's in the front and a single two way amp for the woofers. Again, this also allows you to keep all of your interior space instead of filling it with speaker boxs.

Just my thought, its your E.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Thanx Dobbs!! That was a lot of help and i did mean a capacitor lol I just totally forgot what it was called.

Ok my head unit is a pioneer avh-p2300dvd so I shouldn't need a crossover since it has a EQ. And sub control...right? As for my battery I have the optima yellow already.

Now for the subs you are right it is gonna be taking up way to much space I had the front panel in the trunk just to give me a idea and its way to big for me but I really want the 15"s so instead of the both or a 10" or 12" I'm thinking I am gonna split the difference and chop the box I built in half a and go with a single 15". It'll save me a a lot of room and I still will have tons of bass.

Also you don't think a extra set of 6x9"s is worth it and just four 6x5"s will do? And as for the 8 tweeters I meant it a different way I was planing on getting the speakers with the built in tweets plus to extra for the front panels. So all in all I figure 1- 15" 4-6x5 with to extra tweeters. And maybe or not the 2-6x9 and a good amp to push it all. And I should have a petty kick ass system would you say?? Thanx again
 

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If this were the 80's or even early 90's when the more speakers meant the better due to lower output speakers and amps, it would be the norm. These days, a 800 watt RMS system is sort of a common occurrence between two pairs of separate components and two woofers alone. With that added power your also able to get cleaner and fuller sound due to the added technology in the basic deck that used to consist of multiple add ons such as crossovers, enhancers and what have you. I really dont think you will gain much by adding so many speakers other than a lighter wallet, added work and strain on your vehicles electrical load. Its just my opinion but I would stick with what I previously suggested.

A forum member used a 15" woofer in the spare tire cavity. I was shocked by how much room there is under that floor so you may be able to get the woofer flush to the floor. Ive never been a fan of a woofer over 12" as they take more power and space to do whats become normal output for a 12" woofer anymore.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...t-build-excelon-|-cdt-|-re-|-soundstream.html

Unless you power (or under power as the HU is only 22 watts RMS) those 6x9's from the head unit, your now looking at three amps. One four way for the two pairs of 6.5"s, one for the 15" woofer, one two way for the pair of 6x9's. Those amps have to mount someplace as do the added 6x9's.

Its your E, do what makes you happy. In the end, your the one looking at the stuff and listening to it. My question to people with a car full of speaker box's and amps is why? There are other ways to do things while keeping the sound quality there and the vehicle cargo/passenger area functional.


Before I forget, a capacitor can actually do more harm than good. Your electrical system still has to feed that draw. This is a good read and a great forum for these types of questions:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/car-audio-truth-myths-industry-dogma/96044-capacitor-myth.html
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanx again dobbs that is a very good website I've been hooked on the past few days very helpful it explains everything I've been asking and more.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey guys just want to say I'm almost done with my system I've already got the speakers in I went with 4 pioneer premier 6x5's I've still got to hook up the new tweets in the stock spot on the pillars and then just run the lines to the amp and radio and I'm a just about done but just wondering... I mean its alittle late to think about it now but it hit me. This morning while I was leaving for work and isomeone passed by with a old civic with music blasting and all I really heard was the trunk rattling as if it was gonna fall apart then it hit meoh crap I have a LX E with the plastic side . :shock: my car is gonna sound horrible! Does anyone have this problem? Or does it not sound that bad as I'm imagining it to be.. I know I could always dynoseal it but I can't imagine how much I would need you know what I mean.
 

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I used some buytl to hold the rear license plate to the frame and then more buytl to help hold that to the E and bolted it on. No plate rattle with 1200+ watts. As far as the E side panels go, no rattle on my 07 SC. However all doors have been dampened and sealed and the SC already has floor underlayment and carpet. Im not "bumpin" but it can as ive tested it, again, no panel rattle.
 

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I always think back to that Grand National. That was built by the guys at SpeakerWorks out in Cali (Orange?) before Rich bought it. He helped develop the noise gate technology you see in a lot of products these days. IIRC those 15's were mounted in aperiodic enclosures. That car was built for massive clear SPL and very objective scoring (hitting numbers or values). Anyway you don't see the waveguides used much anymore but I like the idea of using different subwoofers for each bottom octave. If I had the coin I'd like to try using a stealthbox like enclosure up front to handle 50Hz to 100Hz and drop a 12 or 15 in the spare tire well to handle 25Hz to 50Hz.
It is really great to find a site where there are some old school car audio guys lurking - I was an installer for many years, I still do some installs - I have only had the element for a short while but already find myself driving around having evil thoughts...

How about a 12" in each rear door?

I have a huge collection of old school high end gear, some of it is new in boxes, some of the stuff I even got for free back I the day...

I still have a civic and integra with big systems and a Mazda pickup - I never sell my old cars!

I think I want something that is a little more compact but still with good SQ- the stock system is good compared to some other stock stuff but I still can't stand it for long - I swapped the door speakers for a set of MB Quart Q216 ( brand new but a few years old) after a couple days -only to find it still sounds like crap - obviously the head and amp are junk...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
whats up guys. I had a little free time this weekend so I built a single sub box but I miss measured a little on the height so I think it sits a bit to high for me what do you guys think? I'm not sure, and I covered the face with C/F and that came out really nice. I will post some more later.
 

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to keep that upper space usable have you considered either fabricating or finding a removable shallow basket or such? I still cant imagine the ear blistering bass that thing must pump out having two 10's in my E.
 
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