[ApriliaGuy]

The old fashioned "Push and release" way works fine.
I tried to gravity bleed mine and it dribbled a bit but then stopped.


A refresher...

Suck the old fluidout of the master cylinder and replace w/ fresh.

Start bleeding at the caliper furthest from the master (Right Rear).

Open bleed screw and have someone gently depress pedal. Don't let the pedal completely bottom out if possibe.

Tighen screw, release pedal.

Repeat 'till you have nice clean clear fluid come out.

Keep an eye on the master so the fluid doesn't get too low and suck air in.

Repeat on other calipers, eventually ending up at the LF.

Note: some people prefer to "pump" the brakes repeatedly between loosening/tightening the bleeder screws, but may just cause some unnecessary "airation." I use the pump method wheen it seems like there is air trapped somewher in the system, but not for normal "replacement" bleeding.

Good luck.

Will

 

[ApriliaGuy]

If you have an inexperienced helper it pays to put a block of wood or other firm object under the brake pedal to limit its travel.

That is a great idea....even w/ an experienced helper!


Will

 

[ApriliaGuy]

I tell the helper to use his extra "foots" underneath the pedal. Saves time lookin' in the wood pile for just the right stick.

I usually have my wife use her foot like you said, but se doesn't always keep it in the right spot if the fluid flush takes a while. My boy is 2 now, so he'll be doing her job next spring I think.

Will

 

[ApriliaGuy]

Why does pressing the brake pedal down (all of the way.....) with the bleeder open.................. Mess up the Master Cylinder????

because the part of the plunger that runs through the mc is very smooth (polished even) and the extreme end (that gets no use normally) will be rough from corrosion. As it moves against the seals in the MC it can tear them or rough them up, causing leaks. Rust/sediment from inside the resivior can cause similar problems. (E's have plastic resiviors, so that helps with the rust part.)

These leaks are usually "internal," and just reduce the amount of pressure you're applying with your foot. Most often, you'll be stopped at a traffic light or something and feel the pedal slowly sink to the floor. Sometimes the fluid will leak from the MC into the engine compartment/firewall.


Will

 

[ApriliaGuy]

...I was wondering how much brake fluid I will need to flush the entire system. My local dealer said the 32oz bottle would be best...

That is about right.

I sugest 4 "pint" size bottles instead of the one "quart" size. Onece you open the bottle any remaining fluid will go bad in a short period of time. Smaller containers help you avoid waste, even though they may cost a bit more.

Having a new pint bottle on the shelf can be handy, but a 3/4 empty bottle that is 6mo old is almost worthless. :wink:

 

[ApriliaGuy]

The fluid is mostly the same. DOT3 is DOT3....you can use DOT4 instead which has a higher boiling point. Some fluids are rated as DOT3/DOT4 to supposedly help prevent confusion.

I like Valvoline SynPower. Castrol LMA is also very good. Fresh and clean and the proper type is what matters most!