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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been having an issue with a "wine glass" howling coming from the wheels. The TPMS light has been on for a couple weeks and the noise goes away when I touch the brake peddle. The "wine glass" sound is that classic trick of running a wet finger around the rim of a glass.

I have searched the site but haven't seen anything similar. Any ideas? It's Cold and windy, otherwise I would have taken the wheels off to check. Would the warning tab on the brakes stop the sound when applying the brakes? I have 39K miles on the car and it's mostly highway miles.
 

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Best suggestion I can offer would be to pull a wheel off and take a look. It can be any number of things and they all require pulling a wheel off to look, so you might as well pull a wheel off and check the brake pads and rotors.

If your warranty is still alive, head to the dealer and let them resolve it since the weather sux for working on your brakes right now.



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I've been having an issue with a "wine glass" howling coming from the wheels. The TPMS light has been on for a couple weeks and the noise goes away when I touch the brake peddle. The "wine glass" sound is that classic trick of running a wet finger around the rim of a glass.

I have searched the site but haven't seen anything similar. Any ideas? It's Cold and windy, otherwise I would have taken the wheels off to check. Would the warning tab on the brakes stop the sound when applying the brakes? I have 39K miles on the car and it's mostly highway miles.
Have you checked your tire pressure? The TPMS light has nothing to do with the brakes - it signals low tire pressure (cold weather often lowers the tire pressure enough to have the light come on).
Not sure on the E, but most brake wear/warning sounds shows up when you apply the brakes, not the other way around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That was my thoughts too. The TPMS light is on not the low tire pressure light. I guess I will make an appt with the dealer, I just didnt want the laundry list of stuff they'll dream up for my car for repairs since it has just shy of 40k on it. Brakes,Diff fluid, radiator flush....blah blah blah. I plan on doing the diff fluid this spring and I would do the brakes if I had a decent place to work in.
 

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If the noise is coming frum the rear don't forget to look at the E brake assembly, I had issues with noise to and turned out to be rust built up on the E brake and related hardware.Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It seems to be coming from the passenger side only (front and rear) and it is a humming sound like I said earlier....I park outside if that info helps. It started when it got really cold out. Doesnt happen when it's warmer out, over 40 say. I looked through the stock rims and can see the pad and they look like they have some life left, but that's only one pad of two. I am leaning toward it being stuck guides. Is there a fairly easy way to lube the guides without dimantling the caliper? I have done enough work on cars not to kill myself or be frightened off but being it's cold out I wanted to spend the least amount of time making my finger bleed in the cold weather. :)
 

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It seems to be coming from the passenger side only (front and rear) and it is a humming sound like I said earlier....I park outside if that info helps. It started when it got really cold out. Doesnt happen when it's warmer out, over 40 say. I looked through the stock rims and can see the pad and they look like they have some life left, but that's only one pad of two. I am leaning toward it being stuck guides. Is there a fairly easy way to lube the guides without dimantling the caliper? I have done enough work on cars not to kill myself or be frightened off but being it's cold out I wanted to spend the least amount of time making my finger bleed in the cold weather. :)
Can't lube without dis-assembly.



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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I went and read you write up on front brake pad replacement, thanks. Where are the guides/pins I would lubricate if the pad isnt fully pulling from the rotor? Would I need to remove the caliper to lube them or could I leave it on and just do one at a time, thus not having to bleed the brakes and all?

Thanks for the help.
 

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That was my thoughts too. The TPMS light is on not the low tire pressure light. I guess I will make an appt with the dealer, I just didnt want the laundry list of stuff they'll dream up for my car for repairs since it has just shy of 40k on it. Brakes,Diff fluid, radiator flush....blah blah blah. I plan on doing the diff fluid this spring and I would do the brakes if I had a decent place to work in.
Huh? TPMS = T - Tire, P - Pressure, M- Monitoring, S - System, ie. the low tire pressure light. Oh, I get it, the TPMS warning itself - which means the whole system is not functioning. Then make sure you check tire pressure, as you will get no warning if any are low - and then a trip to the Dealer.
 

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You dont hafe to take the caliper all the way off. I just pull the bolt's holding the sliders (guides/pin's) off and carfully slide one end of the caliper off the rotor just enof so you can get the slider out (be carfull you dont tear the rubber boot. it just kinda pop's off the bolt as you slide it out.. push the caliper back on and do the other slider.Or you could do it the right way and take the caliper off all the way, whatever work's for you.
 

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If you haven't checked your brake pads do so as it sounds like you are hitting the min wear squealer. It will do exactly what you are describing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for all the suggestions. I brought it to the dealer yesterday as it's still under warranty and they turned off the tpms light and concluded that the sound was caused by the differential fluid (needed changing). I was planning on doing this myself and that was my first reaction when they told me that's what it was but after I hung up I thought about it. I called back and asked if there was a charge for what they did and they said $45 diagnositc on the sound. I asked if the $45 would go toward the fluid change and they said yes if I had them do it. Adding up the $45+$20 for fluid didn't leave much of a difference to the $80 they quoted for changing the fluid so I had them do it. I ended up paying $70 for the day. Glad I thought about it while they had it as opposed to crawling under it myself in sub 30 degree temps for $5. I swore it was a brake issue.

Thanks again for the help.
 

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Thats great and I know the thing about crawling under the car in very cold weather.:grin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Seem like the noise wasnt caused by the Differential fluid as it mildly showed itself again this morning, unless it takes awhile for the fluid replacement to work through. I have to call the dealer and asked them if they actually looked at the brakes like I asked them to, or did they just "think" it was the differential fluid and never really look at anything.

Will keep ya updated. Do you think that sticking calipers are a warranty item?
 

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Mine went away in about a mile also and it wasn't an squealing sound but a rumbling sound only when turning tightly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I called them and they said they looked at the brakes and everything looked good. They want me to stop by and take them (foreman/team service leader) out for a ride to hear the sound. Problem I have is it shows up randomly although it's been cold when it shows up. It doesnt change pitch or make a grinding sound at all. It starts on highway, slow speeds and on corners (bends not hard turns). The sound is almost identical to the "wine glass "crystal"" rim sound. Take a wet finger and run it quickly around the rim of a wine glass. When I mentioned I thought it was the caliper the team leader contact said it was impossible because the brakes would be all burnt up and they arent.

My contention is that it's just sticking and making very slight contact somewhere and acting like the finger on the wine glass. I suspect that the cold weather is causing the sticking.

The problem I have is that although I have the tools and ability to work on the problem myself I do not have anyplace other than a driveway to work on it. I do not want to spend a fortune going back and forth with the dealer for weeks trying to diagnose the issue. "maybe it's the muffler bearings?" type of diagnosis I have had before.

Short story, I brought an accord in that lost power but ran fairly well otherwise and wanted them to diagnose it. The service tech told me I had leaves in the intake manifold and it would be $1,500 to clean them out. I was floored. I took a paper clip and got the codes myself and it told me oxygen sensor; I changed it and wa la, it's fixed.

I am sort of trapped in that I have an extended warranty and feel that they will drum up stuff that is out of warranty coverage to diagnose. I.E. differential fluid change, although it probably didnt hurt.
 

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Are you hearing the sound when driving or when applying the brakes? if when driving, does the sound go away when you apply the brakes, does it get worse or better?

Here is a suggestion i can offer to help you work on your car in the cold when you don't have your own garage. So long as you have all of the tools to perform the work, find a parking garage on the weekend that's open and find a nice concealed fairly well lit area that is also protected from the wind and cold. I have actually done quite a bit of work on cars for friends like this on numerous occasions during the winter.

Pull both front wheels, remove the calipers and brake pads. Look for any small stones or something that can be causing the noise. Check if there is any anti-squeal between the pads and metal squeal plates on the brake pads. If you don't see any, apply it. If you can't find anything then grease the sliders and reassemble the brakes. This should resolve your noisy brakes so long as the pads have plenty of life left in them.



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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The sound happens when the the brakes aren't applied. It goes away with the slightest tap of the peddle and varies whether it continues. It seems to be both Passenger tires that are making the sound and doesnt happen immediately after I start the car in the morning but after I've been driving a bit.

I like the idea of the parking garage but havent you forgotten a tool or needed something? The closest parking garage to me that I can think of is 15 min away on the highway.

I really do appreciate the advice, it helps when you've actually taken the suspected area apart before. I guess I will have to just suck it up and pull the tires to see what I can see, cold be d*mned. Where did you put the jack stands? I never had any luck putting them on the tabs on the side of the car, it usually damages it bending the tab or denting the floor. I dont want to hurt the E.
 
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