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Discussion Starter #1
I have an '04 E, 4WD Auto EX 2.4.

I just turned over 100,000K miles and I had the brakes replaced. Including rotors and pads. Also bled the brake fluid til fresh and clear.

Today, I am driving and come to a stop light and see smoke coming from the pass side wheel well. I freaked out and pulled over to see what is going on. The smell was very burnt/motor smell. I looked under the hood while the car was running and saw nothing. It was coming from my calipers. I was not able to touch the calipers or the rotors for a second. Burning hot!

I waited about 20 minutes for a cool down and realized I was in a auto repair parking lot. I walked in and asked the guy if he had an idea. He drove the car about 50 feet, backed bu and moved the wheel. He could not find anything. I was getting really worried and only 3 miles more to my destination. After getting to the destination, I had jacked the car up, removed the wheel and removed the caliper from the rotor. I pumped the brakes to see if the caliper was sticking. It worked fine. Compressed the caliper and tried again. Worked fine. I cleaned up the brake pads and wiped everything down and put it all back together.

I drove the car on the expressway to my next destination. After arriving the calipers were warm but not burning hot from before. So the issue may have gone away but, I have no clue what caused that super hot burning only on that wheel.

I also think that the rear pass caliper is sticking too. I hear a click while pressing the pedal and sometimes after releasing.

Any ideas on this?
 

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Did u change the brakes or take it somewhere?? If someone else did it take it back to the shop and have them check it out. Maybe the caliper wasn't compressed or something?
 

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More then likely the caliper or the caliper slider stuck. Like others said if you had the brakes done thake it back and have them lube the sliders. If you live in a area where they put salt on the roads the calipers can stick a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Few things...
I live in the Chicago area so road salt is always here.

I had pulled off the wheel and removed the pads. The pads move freely in the races and I do have a tad bit of grease in the channel too. The caliper seems to be working right. I pumped the brake line and the caliper moved out 3/4" freely and I compressed it back down again and tried again. Seems fine to me.
The springs are on the pads.

Its not a wheel bearing, tested for that.
Somebody told me it may be a blockage in the brake line?
Could be the pads are not moving away from the rotors.
Also a small amount of grease might of made its way to the brake pads I hear. This causes silicone to absorb into the pads making them defective?

So far, the problem seems ok. I am still worried about this. Any other clues would be great.
 

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...Somebody told me it may be a blockage in the brake line...

...Could be the pads are not moving away from the rotors...

...Also a small amount of grease might of made its way to the brake pads I hear. This causes silicone to absorb into the pads making them defective...
First, Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it attracts or absorbs moisture. Over a period of time it will rust steel parts and corrode aluminum parts in the brake system. It also deteriorates rubber hoses and seals. It's recommended to replace rubber brake hoses when they start visibly cracking or weathering on the outside, because they look just as bad on the inside. When the hoses and seals start to break down, they form a gunk on the inside of the calipers and won't let the pistons fully retract. Also, when the hoses start getting weak, they will expand and not allow full pressure to the calipers.

Second, if grease did get on the pads, it will cause them to grab. If it's bad enough, it can lock up the wheel. If it's on the front, you'll also notice it pulling hard to one side during brake application.

With your E being an '04 with 100k, if you haven't already replaced the hoses and rebuilt or replaced the calipers, you should consider it.

That's just my opinion, for whatever it's worth.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
As poor as I am, with no job can the calipers be rebuilt by anyone? If someone gave me a guide, I can handle that.

I don't get any pull from the brakes causing the wheel to move left nor right.
Just a med-hard standard braking. No squeal, grind or anything.
 

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Sounds to me as though someone got brake fluid on the pads themselves. This would cause all sorts of smoking and could heat the calipers up. Once you cleaned the pads/rotors I am guessing using brake cleaner of some sort. This would have removed the residue and would be why you didn't see smoke or get overly heated calipers.

As to needing to rebuild the calipers, I don't see any need unless you have a tear or visible cracking in the seals. I have 137k on mine with original seals and no issues.



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Discussion Starter #9
ROUND 2: Now things get crazy!!!!!!

The front brake has been good now for over a week with no issues.
Now the back driver side is giving my crap.
Seems like the caliper is not releasing properly. I removed the wheel, removed the caliper [connection] and popped off the pads. Cleaned the pads off, cleaned the router and the caliper and races for the pads.

I pumped the pedal to see if the calipers are moving in fine and they are. Nice and smooth. I clamped down the caliper again and tried again with good results. I then bled the heck out of the brake line and kept the fluid full. All was nice and clean.

Reassemble and taken a test drive.....
Just brake grinding now and pads not releasing. I don't know what to do anymore.
 

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I wouls suggest taking it back to who did the brake job unless it was a friend. You may have a foriegn fluid in the system and is causing problems with the master cyl. If the calipers are putting a bind on the rotors try opening the bleed valve on the caliper and bleed off the pressure and see if the rotor turns better after that. If so flush out the system with dot 3 fluid only and not dot 5 as that is a silicone based fluid. If it still is binding it could be ether the sliders for the caliper that needs cleaning and greasing or the caliper piston seal is binding. The O ring seal in the caliper is supposed to pull the piston back very slightly when the brakes are released to keep the pads from rubbing the rotor too hard.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have done many brake jobs in the past and never had as much probs.

After taking a longer drive [about 2 miles] the brakes stopped normally and then a hard crack/boom sound happened. Like someone threw a rock in my rims. The car drove fine and braked fine. I drove another mile, got to the corner by my house and turned left and bamm. Scruntch, scruntch, scruntch of dry/rusty braking sounds. I pulled into the driveway shut off the car. Got aggravated and drove again around the hood. Nothing this time, no grind no nothing.

I did flush out that line with DOT3, clean as a whistle.
I feel there would be no problem to rebuild a caliper but, is there a rebuild kit made? Anything I should know before performing? If something goes wrong it is a long walk to the nearest car parts store.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So far, another day of driving.
Only a few probs today on the brakes.

I was driving about 50 MPH and the rubbing sound of the caliper came back. After braking it was gone. A few times when I go around corners it will start and go away in seconds. I wonder after taking everything apart the pads have dropped down a bit and a cutting into fresh rotor with rust area causing these sounds.
 

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Did you get the rotors turned to get the rust rings off of them? If not that could be your problem. Some aftermarket pads may be a little different size and will catch on the rust causing some weird noises and binding.
 

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Also, if you DID get the rotors turned, it will take some time for the new pads to burnish in to the new surface on the rotors. It's not uncommon to have some noise for a while.
 

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Had the same issue a few years ago.

My right rear caliper was freezing/sticking and would make "rusty" grinding noises. It turned out to be my emergency brake was tweaked and needed adjustment and the problem disappeared. Good luck and with 130,000 on my E, my opinion would be that you don't need to rebuild the caliper or replace any brake lines.

Oh ya, my E was making a "boom", bang noise whenever I would back up after being parked.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I was able to get a "E" digital repair guide. I was surprised on how easy most of the fixes are. I like cut-a-way diagrams. So far, no brake probs. "knock, knock, knock"....=)
 

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I was able to get a "E" digital repair guide...
Was it one of the ones on eBay? I saw those and thought for the money they would be worth checkin' out.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
No, I found it on a torrent search.

I looked through the guide and don't see any copyright info or anything. It is real Honda cut-away pics and info. If it is allowed, I can upload it on my server for download. If this is legal to do so, i'll share by request. Just PM me.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Here we go again!

Rear brakes are smoking. The caliper is not releasing causing heat/friction buildup. I spoke with a reputable tech. He said to take apart the capiler, clean the barrel, do not damage the seals, apply silicone grease and see what happens.

He did say a rebuild kit is near impossible to buy.
 

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I'm leaning toward Twi's idea of improperly lubricated pad "ears" if they are OEM Honda pads. If they are aftermarket pads, take them off and toss 'em in the trash can, then go buy yourself some OEM Honda brake pads. I took an original brake pad and compared it to several aftermarket pads at the auto parts stores (I do stuff like that, plus I was going anyway.) Not surprisingly, the aftermarket pads were off sized slighty. The Honda pads are far superior. Good luck.
 
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