short ram. that is a florida opinion though due to all the rain. i dont care what people say about "bypass valves" but they DO FAIL. not everytime, but just once is enough to hyrdolock a honda engine and bend EVERYTHING under the valve cover. there is really no instructions needed for it one the 06 and prior either. just take the old one off, put the new one on and go. no fishing stuff thru the fender and having to remove the battery, etc.
CAI or SRI
does having CAI or SRI really helps in engine performance? i'm considering installing, but of course q's:
- does it help in extending mileage? less gas consumption?
- any issues if installing CAI on winter areas (canada?)
- any detailed installation here at the forum? (everytime i search and look, there are just too many posts to follow that i got lost)
anybody? thanks!
- does it help in extending mileage? less gas consumption?
- any issues if installing CAI on winter areas (canada?)
- any detailed installation here at the forum? (everytime i search and look, there are just too many posts to follow that i got lost)
anybody? thanks!
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CAI is better for performance. That said, I have a short ram sort of setup just b/c I feel that the E shouldn't be scared of a little water. I have a CAI on my mazda3 though (and its REALLY LOW) and have never had problems. You've gotta be pretty dumb and drive into some REALLY deep water to hydrolcok a car.
Gas mileage? It might improve things 1 mpg at most, IF you can stay out of the throttle instead of using your newfound power more.
Gas mileage? It might improve things 1 mpg at most, IF you can stay out of the throttle instead of using your newfound power more.
You've gotta be pretty dumb and drive into some REALLY deep water to hydrolcok a car.
Boy have I seen that done a few times when I use to tow for animal club. I would get something like this. I hit a puddle and the engine just stopped! It wont even crank over! Well Sir- Mam, Can you say new engine??? Ford Diesel trucks from the 80s at least had a lable that said remove this piece for fording on one of the intake pieces.
Boy have I seen that done a few times when I use to tow for animal club. I would get something like this. I hit a puddle and the engine just stopped! It wont even crank over! Well Sir- Mam, Can you say new engine??? Ford Diesel trucks from the 80s at least had a lable that said remove this piece for fording on one of the intake pieces.
Yoda's correct on the risk.
But the E is pretty well shielded to begin with. If you look at where the CAI would go - it's got the lower plastic that would be between it and water.
not to say that water couldn't get in there - but it would need to be a sizable bit of water IMO.
your 2006 is safe from the error throwing the check engine light I think.
as for mileage - I get a 2mpg boost at least. most long trips I can average 28 with AC on - 29.5 to 30.1 without AC on.
But the E is pretty well shielded to begin with. If you look at where the CAI would go - it's got the lower plastic that would be between it and water.
not to say that water couldn't get in there - but it would need to be a sizable bit of water IMO.
your 2006 is safe from the error throwing the check engine light I think.
as for mileage - I get a 2mpg boost at least. most long trips I can average 28 with AC on - 29.5 to 30.1 without AC on.
Another thing to consider is access to the filter for maintenance and just checking on the filter. When I did my research, on the forums, on which to get, I read that to get to the CAI filter you have to take the front bumper off. For that reason some changed from CAI to SRI.
I have a SRI.
I have a SRI.
Exactly,that's one of the reasons why I chose the K&N Typhoon for my E'.Another thing to consider is access to the filter for maintenance and just checking on the filter. When I did my research, on the forums, on which to get, I read that to get to the CAI filter you have to take the front bumper off. For that reason some changed from CAI to SRI.
I have a SRI.
I like being able to see and easily access the filter for cleanings. Sure removing the front bumper certainly isn't difficult,nor very time consuming,but just to get to the air filter...I'll pass.? Cleaning is only needed every 50k miles or so. Don't clean your filter too often, its bad for the filter and bad for your car.
Every filter is different? Cleaning is only needed every 50k miles or so. Don't clean your filter too often, its bad for the filter and bad for your car.
Weapon R air filter - 3000-5000
K&N air filter - 30,000 (edit 40,000 not 30,000)
AEM air filter - 20,000
Injen air filter - 30,000-40,000
I have a Weapon R so I just clean mine when I change my oil. Not like I am doing anything but waiting for the oil to drain anyways! ;-)
Where are those figures from? K&N's website:
4. How often do I need to clean my K&N air filter?
If you have not experienced a decrease in mileage or engine performance, chances are your filter is fine and does not yet need cleaning. To be more specific, the filter does not require cleaning if you can still see the wire screen on the entire air filter regardless of how dirty it may appear. When the screen is no longer visible some place on the filter, it is time to clean it. When used in normal paved road, street or highway conditions, our replacement air filters that fit in the factory air box should require cleaning every 50,000 miles and our large conical filters on an intake system should require cleaning every 100,000 miles. When used in dusty or off-road environments, our filters will require cleaning more often. We recommend that you visually inspect your filter once every 25,000 miles to determine if the screen is still visible.
I have an AEM dryflow and cleaned it at 50k on my mazda3 and the cleaning solution came out perfectly clean. The AEM actually knocks dirt off over time from engine vibration instead of trapping it like cotton guaze types, so I would be its interval is even longer.
4. How often do I need to clean my K&N air filter?
If you have not experienced a decrease in mileage or engine performance, chances are your filter is fine and does not yet need cleaning. To be more specific, the filter does not require cleaning if you can still see the wire screen on the entire air filter regardless of how dirty it may appear. When the screen is no longer visible some place on the filter, it is time to clean it. When used in normal paved road, street or highway conditions, our replacement air filters that fit in the factory air box should require cleaning every 50,000 miles and our large conical filters on an intake system should require cleaning every 100,000 miles. When used in dusty or off-road environments, our filters will require cleaning more often. We recommend that you visually inspect your filter once every 25,000 miles to determine if the screen is still visible.
I have an AEM dryflow and cleaned it at 50k on my mazda3 and the cleaning solution came out perfectly clean. The AEM actually knocks dirt off over time from engine vibration instead of trapping it like cotton guaze types, so I would be its interval is even longer.
My bad my source for K&N said 40k not 30k!Where are those figures from?
My source for AEM
I just google to find info if not easily found on manufactures website.
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
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