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Discussion Starter #1
saw this advertised on a car show i watch, and sure enough they make it for the E. I think im going to have to get one of these things.

http://www.sprintboosterusa.com/c-358-at.aspx

How does the Sprint Booster Work?

Sprint Booster is engineered to enhance the driving experience by providing increased acceleration time (eliminating delay) on drive-by-wire cars by continuously measuring and converting the digital signal and providing the ECM (Electronic Control Module) with a new and altered signal for much quicker response. Sprint Booster improves response, increases pedal input sensitivity and delivers more impressive off the line performance you can really feel.

Is the Sprint Booster easy to install?

It is a simple plug-n-play installation that takes just a few minutes and delivers instant response throughout the power band, making accelerating and rev matching incredibly more fun.

Is there a Sprint Booster available for my car?

Sprint Booster is application-specific and available for a number of popular high-performance makes and models.

When you put the pedal to the metal, nothing beats the roaring sound and feeling of instant acceleration!
 

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In other words it takes the DBW signal and turns it up to 11 :roll:

I've seen these before and all they do is increase the response curve that's presented to the ECU. That means where you put the pedal to 25% this thing tells the ECU it's at 40%. You can get the same effect by just mashing the pedal harder which effectively reduces your gas mileage. Save yourself the money, you'll need it at the pump, and just start driving like you've got a lead foot.

If you really need a mod to get your kicks, try duct taping a brick to your right foot. It does the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
In other words it takes the DBW signal and turns it up to 11 :roll:

I've seen these before and all they do is increase the response curve that's presented to the ECU. That means where you put the pedal to 25% this thing tells the ECU it's at 40%. You can get the same effect by just mashing the pedal harder which effectively reduces your gas mileage. Save yourself the money, you'll need it at the pump, and just start driving like you've got a lead foot.

If you really need a mod to get your kicks, try duct taping a brick to your right foot. It does the same thing.
It decreases the delay in the signal. I dont agree with what you are saying. The lag time from the moment you put your foot in the gas is going to be the same whether you mash on it, or ease on it. I think this little thing will reduce the response time, or lag time
 

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Sounds Interesting!

This sounds interesting, but I think it's a little spendy.

Keep us all posted if you buy this! I want to know how this works out for you and what it ends up doing. Almost all of my driving now is around town, so my gas mileage is pretty bad anyhow. But, with the Injen CAI and exhaust, I pretty much step into the throttle anyway. The TRP-E just sounds so good!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
In other words it takes the DBW signal and turns it up to 11 :roll:

I've seen these before and all they do is increase the response curve that's presented to the ECU. That means where you put the pedal to 25% this thing tells the ECU it's at 40%. You can get the same effect by just mashing the pedal harder which effectively reduces your gas mileage. Save yourself the money, you'll need it at the pump, and just start driving like you've got a lead foot.

If you really need a mod to get your kicks, try duct taping a brick to your right foot. It does the same thing.
its really not different than what I can do to my over the road trucks. I can have my mechanic go in the ecm and set paramaters to idle, and throttle response. I have one driver who like to mash on the pedal, so i had the my mechanic slow down the reaction on the drive by wire throttle
 

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Well then I suppose I stand corrected. I guess this particular unit is a bit more advanced than the others I've seen, which might in part account for the price.

I'll stick with my old fashioned drive-by-cable throttle since my 2005 EX doesn't have the DBW system. K.I.S.S.
 

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These have been used by Ridgeline owners for a few years now and they all say that it works. Not at all like just mashing the pedal from what has been written about the product.

If anyone is interested, contact Jason at Burtman Industries, an ROC Site sponsor. :grin:
So how does it do it, then? Note, you plugging in between the tps off the pedal and the ECU.
If it does something other than altering the TPS signal fom the pedal to tell the ECU to open the throttle more than the pedal is pushed, then why wouldn't it work on non-DBW (other than the fact it has to connect to the pedal sensor)? Interesting that it's for DBW, yet states applications for '06+. My '06 still uses a cable... did the factory install an older engine in mine?

I'd rather put that money towards something that would actually improve performance, not just improve perception of performance. That $329 could go along way to cover a CAI, a Catback, or a header.
 

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In other words it takes the DBW signal and turns it up to 11 :roll:

I've seen these before and all they do is increase the response curve that's presented to the ECU. That means where you put the pedal to 25% this thing tells the ECU it's at 40%. You can get the same effect by just mashing the pedal harder which effectively reduces your gas mileage. Save yourself the money, you'll need it at the pump, and just start driving like you've got a lead foot.
...
well, if it gives 40% when your pedal is at 25%, just think that's 160% when the pedals at 100%. 60% more throttle!! wow!! after the throttle's all the way open, this doodad opens it 60% more!

<grin>
 

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So how does it do it, then? Note, you plugging in between the tps off the pedal and the ECU.
If it does something other than altering the TPS signal fom the pedal to tell the ECU to open the throttle more than the pedal is pushed, then why wouldn't it work on non-DBW (other than the fact it has to connect to the pedal sensor)? Interesting that it's for DBW, yet states applications for '06+. My '06 still uses a cable... did the factory install an older engine in mine?

I'd rather put that money towards something that would actually improve performance, not just improve perception of performance. That $329 could go along way to cover a CAI, a Catback, or a header.
I don't have any idea how it works, never driven a Ridgeline with one. I was just pointing out where people can get info about it from actual owners.



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...I'll stick with my old fashioned drive-by-cable throttle since my 2005 EX doesn't have the DBW system....
I'm with you in my '04, coffee-man! Ask some of those Toyota drivers how they like dbw. :shock: Hell, even the Boeings I flew back in the day all had nice strong cables hooked to the moving parts, juuuuuuuuuust in case! :lol:
 

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Hell, even the Boeings I flew back in the day all had nice strong cables hooked to the moving parts, juuuuuuuuuust in case! :lol:
I can't speak to Boeings (the 747 I am assuming by your avatar), but on the DC-10, even though the control column is attached to the flight controls with cables, there is no direct connection since there is one set of cables running from the yoke to the hydraulic actuator and one set from the actuator to the flight controls. In other words, no hydraulic fluid, no flight controls, even though they are connected with cables. I just can't imagine a purely mechanical system that could generate sufficient force to drive the flight controls of a whale with just cables and pulleys attached to the yoke. From what I understand, though, Boeing seemed to have better engineers on staff than Douglas, so maybe they had it figured out. On a(n) (un)related note, the DBW in my wife's Jetta is ridiculously annoying. It seems like there is an 'idle' setting and a 'wide open' setting, and it rapidly modulates between the two when you are trying to take off in first gear. I am kind of leaning toward a pre-'07 E for this reason since I want an MT.
 

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IMHO, this is by far, the worthless product ever made.....

I fly remote control helicoptor. So, the throttle curve thing is not foreign to me. Increase the sensitive of the throttle respond map only tricks the operator's mind to believe the motor now have more power. Now, why would any one spend money on that is beyond me.

Like someone already said, drive like you got a lead foot if you must. It doesn't cost you anything other then more gas.

B
 

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Their ads state the truth. Here's why...
Two twins brothers each have an E. They drive identically. A federal government representative is investigating the claim of faster response. He measures each brother and finds they both can press the accelerator pedal to fully depressed in exactly the same time, over and over.
Now one brother's E gets this wonderful new device installed into it. New measurements are made. One brother now IS FASTER than the other. He can press the pedal halfway, and that only takes half the time. His throttle is open 100% in half the time. Therefore his E is faster to get going (his is wide open throttle and his brother is only at 50%).
How much faster??? MICRO seconds.
True... yes.
Useful... not at all IMHO

It does what it says, but read those words carefully. It may have 10 more HP, but for how long? It may have better acceleration, but how much and for how long?

Reminds me of those satisfaction surveys where something is #1 "in its class". After all, my E is #1 in its class... that class included all vehicles owned by me made by honda.
 

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The company that makes this relies on the fact that, for the most part, PT Barnum was right.

Sam
 
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