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Discussion Starter #1
Hey I just want to know who on the forum is running on any other coilovers other than Tein. I know K Sport, D2, and XYZ all make applications for the Element. I just want some feedback on the unit yer riding on. Pro's and Con's of each unit in question. Thanks ya'll:mrgreen:
 

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Not an expert but ill throw in my two cents if I'm wrong please anyone correct me.

I've heard from a few that the three you just named are all more or less identical just with different paint or stickers.

Ksport offers stiffer spring rates and you just need rear camber kit for issues.

Tein is "supposedly" softer ride which would make sense, it has lower spring rates. The main few that I've had had teins eventually get them revalved with stiffer springs, which is extra money and time. And you will need both front camber bolt and rear camber kit with these.

In my search for looking coil overs (still searching) I've seen a lot of tein owners selling but not so many ksport. Not saying one is better this is just what I observed.

It just depends on what spring rate you want. You are going to have haters and lovers with both.

Not trying to swaying you either way because I'm no expert but unless I find a hellacious good deal on teins. I'm going to go with ksport.

All of what I said plus more can be found by searching the forum. There is tons of post about coil overs good and bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Yea i was talkin to Chief who runs Tein and xblol who runs Ksport. I am definitely turned off by the whole revalving issue. Read a lot of reviews and I see mixed comments. I was leaning toward the Ksport honestly but was curious who on the forum was running something different than the tein's. I guess nobody here runs on D2 or XYZ?? Keep me posted on what direction u go. Does stiffer spring rate mean less bounce or more bounce?? My ground controls are super bouncy and getting quite annoying. Less spring rate means what?? When I hit a bump it seriously sounds gut wrenching
 

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The softer spring rate allows more travel. I am in the process of get the rears revalved because they bottom out if you go low. I say get the ksports and save the trouble of sending the rears out. I got mine used so after revalving I'm looking at $1k for the cost of the teins. I should send out the fronts but funds don't allow me to do them right now.
 

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From what I've heard ksport, d2, and xyz are all the same. I would "assume" that from stats alone. Tein would be better ride quality over, ksport just because of the spring rate difference. I think we are just with the bouncy ride regardless just spring rates concerned tein should be smoother ride.

Like I said, I'm probably going to end with ksport unless a good on teins come around. Which I'm looking for wheels first then will move on to coil overs. I will keep you posted on what I go with though.
 

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The softer spring rate allows more travel.
Wrong. The length of the shock's stroke determines the travel. A softer spring rate only means that you get there sooner. All methods of lowering through springs and shocks limit the travel of the suspension and require stiffer springs to keep you off the bump stops.
 

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So in a round about way we said the same thing. Yes the shocks are where the travel come from but if I were to put 18mm springs on my 12kg rear tein basics then there would be no give in the springs to allow the struts to travel.
 

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...if I were to put 18mm springs on my 12kg rear tein basics then there would be no give in the springs to allow the struts to travel.
I'm assuming that "18mm" is referring to the length of the spring? If so then that is also wrong as it is the stiffness of the spring that effects the handling and ride not the length.

The whole thing is moot as the Element is far from a performance car and no company with any reputation makes performance shocks for them. If Koni or Bilstein made units for the Element I'd be all over them but as they don't I just consider my Element as an appliance. I already own a performance car.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
This is good stuff I will be taking all this info and locking it in. All I know is that no coilover system can be as bouncy and harsh as what I'm rocking right now.:lol::lol:
 

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im running the megan track pack for the acura RSX.

F: 62mm ID; 160mm length; 12 kg/mm
R: 62mm ID; 120mm length; 16 kg/mm

ive been on them for some time at diff heights and I use my E for work so its filled with tools much of the time

but they did take some fab. the tierod to strut arm has a more sportscar like ackermann angle. so the tierods need to be shorter to set the correct toe

im using adjustables. and the dc5-r lower control arms all paired together works out to a pretty amazing ride for a *ahem "truck/suv"
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Racer that is amazing and that is why the Racer E is unique. Told my best Thas what makes our truck/SUV so cool is that not many companies make aftermarket stuff so a lot of us do the mods all DIY which makes it one of a kind.
 

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Chris on here has used Megan coil overs. Apparently the element can use track version for the RSD with little modifications including custom outer tie rods and a little machining of lower bushing holes.
 

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Wrong. The length of the shock's stroke determines the travel. A softer spring rate only means that you get there sooner. All methods of lowering through springs and shocks limit the travel of the suspension and require stiffer springs to keep you off the bump stops.
You both are sort of right. Gary is correct that shock travel is determined by its physical stroke ability, but stiffer springs will reduce the amount of travel you actually use because extreme pressures will be required to reach the limit of the strut.

Where Gary is wrong is in the lowering = less travel, which only applies to sleeve coilover systems & the Tein Basics. The Ksport, DC2, XYZ, & BC Racing style coilover systems actually lower the strut body with the spring to adjust height, which retains full shock travel at every height level. It will be impossible to lower the E beyond its mechanical suspension travel, because the strut will always bottom out first, following by the spring binding (compressing completely), and THEN maybe mechanical travel limits.

Very stiff springs can make for a very rough ride if the struts are not valved for it. There is a big trade off between the Tein setup and the Ksport/DC2,XYZ setups. The Teins may have better internals and are serviceable, which is a big part to why you see used ones sold. The others are unserviceable and do not have a great track record for longevity or ride quality. They seem to be very hit or miss and why you rarely ever see any used ones sold (people typically keep them or trash can them). However, the Tein's leave a lot to be desired as well. Teins do not have any adjustable dampening (only ride height), they offer no camber adjustment, and dropping low on Teins means you eat through your strut's travel capacity very quickly. (think about it, a 2" drop on a strut with only 5~6" of travel)


The biggest question you need to answer is, are you looking to go low? or looking handle great? You cannot have both, regardless of what anyone else's opinions may be, the suspension system on the E is not designed to perform any better at a lower stance, it is its best at stock height. (& that goes for RSXs & EP3s too)

If all you want is slammed stance, go for a decent/cheap setup with super stiff springs & you should be fine but it wont ride very comfy.
Raceland & Rokkor make some stupid cheap setups that RSX slammers have been drooling over for a while now. You could get 3 sets of them for the same price as the Teins, so longevity isnt too big of an issue with replacement being so affordable.



My ground controls are super bouncy and getting quite annoying.
Lemme know when you pull them & I may take them off your hands.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You both are sort of right. Gary is correct that shock travel is determined by its physical stroke ability, but stiffer springs will reduce the amount of travel you actually use because extreme pressures will be required to reach the limit of the strut.

Where Gary is wrong is in the lowering = less travel, which only applies to sleeve coilover systems & the Tein Basics. The Ksport, DC2, XYZ, & BC Racing style coilover systems actually lower the strut body with the spring to adjust height, which retains full shock travel at every height level. It will be impossible to lower the E beyond its mechanical suspension travel, because the strut will always bottom out first, following by the spring binding (compressing completely), and THEN maybe mechanical travel limits.

Very stiff springs can make for a very rough ride if the struts are not valved for it. There is a big trade off between the Tein setup and the Ksport/DC2,XYZ setups. The Teins may have better internals and are serviceable, which is a big part to why you see used ones sold. The others are unserviceable and do not have a great track record for longevity or ride quality. They seem to be very hit or miss and why you rarely ever see any used ones sold (people typically keep them or trash can them). However, the Tein's leave a lot to be desired as well. Teins do not have any adjustable dampening (only ride height), they offer no camber adjustment, and dropping low on Teins means you eat through your strut's travel capacity very quickly. (think about it, a 2" drop on a strut with only 5~6" of travel)


The biggest question you need to answer is, are you looking to go low? or looking handle great? You cannot have both, regardless of what anyone else's opinions may be, the suspension system on the E is not designed to perform any better at a lower stance, it is its best at stock height. (& that goes for RSXs & EP3s too)

If all you want is slammed stance, go for a decent/cheap setup with super stiff springs & you should be fine but it wont ride very comfy.
Raceland & Rokkor make some stupid cheap setups that RSX slammers have been drooling over for a while now. You could get 3 sets of them for the same price as the Teins, so longevity isnt too big of an issue with replacement being so affordable.





Lemme know when you pull them & I may take them off your hands.
That was a very informative read, thanks Audiophyle.well I made an offer on some Ksports on eBay so they have 48 hours to get back to me. I'd be happy to sale the ground controls and I wouldn't charge more than 100 clams, I'd also throw in the oem struts as well. That way I don't have to take em back apart again. Keep you posted, where are u located??
 

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Where Gary is wrong is in the lowering = less travel, which only applies to sleeve coilover systems & the Tein Basics. The Ksport, DC2, XYZ, & BC Racing style coilover systems actually lower the strut body with the spring to adjust height, which retains full shock travel at every height level.
.
Look at it like this:
Any time you lower a car through different shocks/struts/springs you are effectively losing suspension travel. If you lower your car by 2" you have given up cloe to 2" of suspension travel. Lengthening or shortening the shock body will not change this. The only way to get it back would be to raise the upper suspension mounts. This is what I have done on my autocross car. I have Ground Control adjustable sleeves on adjustable Koni Sports with Eibach Race springs that are twice as stiff as stock. When the Konis are adjusted full stiff it corners like a slot car and with them set full soft it is decent on the street. Since my car was travel challenged in the rear I have raised the upper mounts 1.5".
 

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I'd be happy to sale the ground controls and I wouldn't charge more than 100 clams, I'd also throw in the oem struts as well. That way I don't have to take em back apart again. Keep you posted, where are u located??
Sounds like a deal to me, PM me when you have them pulled & ready to drop in a box. Profile has my location ;-)



Look at it like this:
Any time you lower a car through different shocks/struts/springs you are effectively losing suspension travel. If you lower your car by 2" you have given up cloe to 2" of suspension travel. Lengthening or shortening the shock body will not change this. The only way to get it back would be to raise the upper suspension mounts. This is what I have done on my autocross car. I have Ground Control adjustable sleeves on adjustable Koni Sports with Eibach Race springs that are twice as stiff as stock. When the Konis are adjusted full stiff it corners like a slot car and with them set full soft it is decent on the street. Since my car was travel challenged in the rear I have raised the upper mounts 1.5".
I agree with what you are saying to a point. What I am saying is the strut travel is the limiting factor of the suspension travel. I don't know what your autoX car is so we will use the E for example, and estimate strut travel to be 6". If you lower 2" on Tein or GC sleeves, you are removing 2" of useable strut travel leaving yourself now 4" of suspension travel before the struts bottom out. The battle then becomes trying to prevent eating through that 4" of travel too quickly which is where stiff springs come into play. Now, you can easily bottom the strut at this point & not have tire/chassis contact or the control arms reach their limits.

Lower the E 2" on the Ksport Kontrols (as one example) and you give up 2" of E travel but still retain all 6" of strut travel before bottoming out the struts because of how they are designed. You still have 6" of suspension travel, but the suspension components are actually traveling 8" to reach their new limit. I do not know for sure, but with the right tire/rim combo you could most likely get away with using that 6" of travel (8" overall) and still not have tire/chassis contact before the struts bottom out. This is essentially the same thing as what you did by moving the strut mounts, except these setups move where the lower mounting point is on the strut. (Strut body moves up/down through the lower mounting point)

So 2" of lowering does not always mean you loose 2" of travel, it depends greatly on the setup and the mechanical limits of the suspension assembly. However in every setup the struts are the limiting factor of travel, and are always the first thing to reach its limit because they can bottom out repeatedly without causing any real damage. If a spring binds (compresses 100%) or any other suspension component reaches its limit, it can cause serious mechanical damage from just a single occurrence. Any lowering setup that doesn't sacrifice strut travel will allow the system to travel farther than OEM spec, potentially creating a different travel limiting factor, so use discretion.
 

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2003 CRV. I am on D2R,i have 3000miles on it. rear is 3clicks stiffer because it rubs when i have passengers,have to trim the plastic to solve this...but the ride is good,much better than stock
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So I bought the KSports and I wanted to post some good info for people looking for Coilovers on the future. This straight from the Ksport USA website. They recently (last few years ago) built a factory in AZ where they make and fix them. I did a lot of research before making my choice. In the end go with what you want and feel best fits you. Thanks all you had valuable input on the thread.

http://ksportusa.com/support-coilover-systems/
 
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