[westieterrier]

Does anyone have experience using “split” type CV boots, i.e., Dorman Speedy Boots? They’re designed to slip over CV shaft, then screwed closed for a seal without having to remove the CV joint. I suspect this is a substandard way to go, but I thought I’d ask.

My driver’s side CV boot is completely separated and must be replaced soon. Ironically (or not), the Compliance Bushing on this side is completely shot too. Passenger side boot looks perfect. Strange. My Element has 99,000 miles; a three-inch lift and subframe drop; along with all new Honda Struts (2 years ago). Thanks!

 

[Fleetw00d]

Don't waste time or money on a split boot. Tried one many years ago - it slung grease everywhere and came apart in short order. Do it right.

 

[TKDmast]

Yep, agree with previous post, get the proper boots or you'll be doing it again the right way soon enough. The only thing I would add is to use the banding tool for the straps and get it done before all the grease gets thrown out and the joint starts to exhibit signs of you need a whole new CV axle. And there are plenty of stories about vibrations here from aftermarket ones, keep and rebuild your OEM ones whenever possible.

 

[ELLASLO]

I would hight recommend buying OEM Factory cv boot kit. I replaced my rear cv boots 3-5 years ago???? The EMPI boots failed. Cost was 15$ each. Compared to 50$. Rear axles are $650, front $350. Money well spent in my opinion. I wont need to replace them again for another 20 plus years . My 2 cents.

 

[wannahonda]

Go with OEM boot kit, save that OEM axle. If it does wear out you can try Trakmotiv CVs they are brand new aftermarket not regrinds which can have fitment issues. I have used Trakmotiv on another car before and have one on the Element too, super cheap price at only $99 Canadian each

 

[Franco_D]

Does anyone have experience using “split” type CV boots, i.e., Dorman Speedy Boots? They’re designed to slip over CV shaft, then screwed closed for a seal without having to remove the CV joint. I suspect this is a substandard way to go, but I thought I’d ask.

I used this to replace one of my rear-inboard boots. Has been good for over a year:

Product Details

www.bailcast.com

These have a sort of tongue-and-groove joint where the surfaces meet, and comes with a special adhesive. It also comes with a packet of lubricant. You trim it at the closest "step" below the dimension you need at either end. I ordered it on Amazon.
The front axle has different considerations, but this is still worth looking at IMO. I'm all for doing things the "right" way, but IIRC boots for the rear axles were unavailable, and there was nothing else wrong with them.