Honda Element Owners Club banner
1 - 7 of 60 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
527 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since so many folks have done some excellent and helpful DIY threads for maintenance, I will try my hand at one that I have not found on here with Pics yet.

The hose that needs to be removed is to the right of the blue washer fluid cap and the bottom of the *********** steering reservoir.



First step is to slide clamp off of return hose. Then gradually wiggle off the hose in order to drain the reservoir. Make sure to have a small container ready for the fluid. I used a Vitamin water bottle. 8-10 ounces should come out of the reservoir. Keep disconnected return hose elevated so it doesn't leak any fluid. (I bent it around a nearby hose and it stayed).



To get all of the fluid, pull up and detach reservoir from the bracket it sits in, this will allow you to tip it over and dump it out.



After draining the fluid from the reservoir, you need to remove the fluid that is in the system. The service manual suggests attaching a hose to the return hose and placing that in a container. I didn't have anything around to do it that way so I just wedged the hose inside of another VW bottle. I found that to be simple and effective. Make sure the hose is in good and the bottle won't dislodge.



Turn on the engine and turn the wheel all the way right and left a few times (It just drips out, not a lot of pressure to worry about). About 10-12 oz should come out. Turn it off once the fluid stops draining out. This is what my fluid looked like after 76k miles. The new fluid looks like a Bud/Coors light.



Reattach return line and clamp. Slide reservoir back into its bracket and fill it up to the fill line and replace the cap. Turn on the car, and turn the wheel to the right and left extremes until it is smooth and all air is worked out. You may need to top it off and do the wheel thing again. I used about 1.5 containers of the fluid which should be around 18 oz.

Total cost: Less than $9 in fluid from the dealership (2 - 12 oz bottles).
Total time: 15 minutes.

I am not sure what the standard interval change is for this, but judging by the color of the fluid, I would recommend prior to 75k miles. (Maybe others could chime in on this part.)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
527 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for posting with pics, and it looks easy to do. I'll be trying my hand at it sometime next week. I'll let you know what color the fluid is.
Very cool, you will be fine. Make sure to post the mileage with what color it looks like so we can get a good bearing for when it should be changed. So far 35k may be too early, 60k is about right, and 75k may be too long.

I haven't disposed of the fluid yet, should I take it to the dealership I got it from for them to recycle or dispose of correctly? They weren't too excited when I brought back the used coolant.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
527 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
How can I be sure that all the air is out? Can you explain please. Also should I have fluid in between the two lines? Sorry, I am really bad when it comes to DIY. :D
All of the steps are in the beginning of the thread. If you did it that way, you should be good. You will know air is in the lines, it isn't smooth as you turn the wheel. Continue moving the steering wheel back and forth while the car is running to get the fluid pumping and the air will work its way out. As long as you are topped off on the reservoir you should be fine.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
527 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
For those asking about other brands of fluid. Dohcvtec got it for $10 from the dealer, I think I got mine from HandA for $6 for 2 bottles. I think it would be over thinking the situation by searching for another brand. For me, the peace of mind gained by using the right product outweighs the cheapness factor of trying to save a buck.

all right i just did mine today and man..the pressure could hold the oil return line in the coke bottle and oil spilled all over the engine bay :razz::razz: took me a while to clean it up.but man.the old oil was really dirty.
after refilled the new fluids,and pushed all the air out.the steering is very very smooth now :lol:
my local honda dealership charged me about $9.5 for two bottles includes tax.
I would just call your experience a minor engine bay detailing. ;-)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
527 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'd like to note that I think this can be easier and less messy if you use a Turkey baster to suck the fluid out of the tank. Therefore you won't have to disconnect any lines or remove the container. Just suck the fluid out, turn engine on and turn wheel like you said, then suck out the rest of the fluid that comes out and refill.
Start a DIY thread with pics and details. I for one think it will take you twice as long with twice as many tools, twice the people, and half as effective. I think the intake line can out-suck you and the baster.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
527 Posts
Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I will be honest and don't recommend doing it yourself. I go to school for auto mechanics and was told by several instructors not to do this by myself, its not like bleeding air out of the braking system. If you don't bleed all the air out of the power steering system then you could do damage to the rack and that is a very costly ($763 for the rack @ dealer cost) repair. Find a place like tire kingdom that does it for less or someone that has BG Power Steering Service Device (old or new). the one that will drain the old fluid with one hose and fill with the other. it's a 30 minute process if done correctly..
As I mentioned in the first post, this follows the directions that is in the service manual. Isn't that what the dealer mechanics are trained with? Are you saying that Honda doesn't know what they are doing but a mechanic school student does?

That's ridiculous. My hunch is a 2nd rate shop you recommend would probably do the same trick they do with brake bleeding. Suck fluid out of resevoir, then add new stuff and call it done and charge you $300 for 30 seconds of work.

It's a 15 minute process WHEN done correctly.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
527 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Just changed it again at 117k miles. That is a little over 40k and 3 years since the last change. It was the same stout color. I'll probably change it again around 150k.
 
1 - 7 of 60 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top