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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey Guys,

I brought my 2008 SC with 146,000 on it... into the Honda dealer in Los Angeles to check a clicking/clunking sound coming from the front end. While i was there i had them give it an overall inspection and see if there was anything that needed to be replaced. They gave me a list of things that they said they "recommend". They said none of these needs to be done right away. I am just worried if i let any of these go, it will make the problems worse or break and end up costing more to fix. The clunking noise was from the brake pads moving inside the brake housing. I kind of thought this was the case after i researched the sound on this forum. But there is a small clunking sound when going over rough jagged roads. Not sure if that's the same brake issue or something with the sway bar link.

So the dealer gave me this recommend repairs and costs. I just wanted to run these by you all and see if these costs are high or where i can get them done cheaper. Also if some of these repairs can wait.


- Ball joint boots torn, recommend both ball joint boots $275
(he said they had a small crack in them and would start to leak soon)

- front sway bar link boots torn, recommend both sway bar links $345
(again, he said they had a crack in them and "could" be the noise i hear when going over bumps)

- valve adjustment $350 (No Noise. he said it doesn't look like they have ever been adjusted, and there's a small oil leak on the valve cover)

- drive belt $220 (said it looked like the original one, but it doesn't have any cracks. And when i was at the oil change place a few weeks ago the guy there said my drive belt looked good. What would happen if the serpentine belt broke while driving? would it cause more damage?)

- fuel injection cleaning $165 (no idea about this one)


Let me know if these are ok prices or if i should wait on a few of the issues and fix later when other signs that they are in need of repair come up. I just want to make sure my E lasts for a while. I love this car.



Thanks in advance!
 

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I would find a recommended independent garage specializing in Honda's that has about (50%) lower prices. Tight valves don't make noise and can cause severe engine damage. I would get that looked at first. I would ask for the valve clearance in writing before and after the valve adjustment from the mechanic.

I would change the transmission fluid (using the genuine Honda ATF) myself and never get a flush on a Honda. I would cover the open cracks in the ball joint boots with thick grease for now.

Enjoy you E. and keep an eye on your alternator. I think 150,000 miles is the average life of an alternator brush. Good luck.
 

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Way over priced
Find an independent shop
I've had all these services done before on my E,s
Ball joints. 8$ per boot online plus 2hours labor
Valve adjustment 12$ gasket 1.5 Labor
Sway bar links. About 60$ for a set oem. 1 hour labor
Serpentine belt 18$ Bando Brand same as honda find online. 1 hour labor.
Fuel treatment cleaner is an upsale. Buy a can of Seafoam. Run your E till the Gas lite comes on. Add 5 gallons of gas to tank. If you use 87, put 89 type Gas in. Drive it like you stole it, to help burn anything off.
Hope this helps
Dealer ships are thieves
Research a good local independent shop online
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the advice. I found a good honda mechanic that quoted me the following including parts.

Valve Adjustments (if needed) $120

serpentine belt $130

Front sway bar links for both $120

Ball joint boots for both $120


I am gonna take Trvs024742 recommendation and do the SeaFoam stuff in my tank.



Thanks for the help!
 

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Don't do SeaFoam. Worst think you can do for your O2 sensors.

If you want to use a fuel injector cleaner, use something that will actually do something that has the ingredient polyether amine (PEA). SeaFoam is Naptha, isopropyl alcohol and oil...that's it.
 

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The idler pulley that tensions the serpentine belt likely needs replaced. I would also replace the radiator cap; the rubber gaskets on it are likely shot. Additionally it would not hurt to have your motor mounts checked. And don't forget to add some PAG oil to the AC system if you add R-134A. Best of luck.
 

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don't use seafoam.
can't think right now of all the bad stuff I've heard but I wouldn't touch it unless you know what the hell you're doing.
have used and heard good stuff with this:
Techron Concentrate Plus Fuel System Cleaner.
of course it's your car.
 

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i second the Techron cleaner, i had a small hesitation just off
idle and after two tanks with a 12oz bottle of Techron is't completely
gone.
 

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Techron contains the polyether amine. Just make sure you buy the concentrated type. Amazon has the large bottle on sale for $6.99 occasionally.
 
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