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I've done this twice now (nice walk-through - thx!) but driver's door power lock still not working. First time thought I got a bad actuator, but same result with 2nd new part. Everything else works, and manually locking drivers door locks all others. Any idea what else it could be?
 

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I'm looking at that sound deadening material on the back of the door panel...the white fibrous stuff. It looks like 3M thinsulate acoustic material which is excellent (I've used it before)...or it's just some cotton material. In any case I'm looking to order some of the 3M acoustic when I do my sound-deadening project. Is that stuff behind the door panel substantial?
 

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I wouldn't call it substantial, but I don't really have anything to compare to. Going from memory, its about 1/2" thick. It doesn't feel like cotton. It does seem very delicate, I tried to be careful with it when I took my door panels off.
 

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Read the post in its entirety, and the linking post that shows how to remove the handle.

HOLYMOLY was that a pain in the A$$ (and I'm somewhat handy). Previous comments show some people completing the fix without removing the door handle - they must have played the game Operation often in their youth; I attempted to remove the part without the handle removal and wasn't able to maneuver the module without finally removing that handle (and that C-CLIP... OMG that was SO TOUGH).

In the end it took me 3.5 hours, and it's been the hardest car repair I have ever completed. Being it's a 2003; 17 year old car... I wasn't about to drop $400 for that type of repair.

Thank you for the write-up it helped immensely!
 

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Read the post in its entirety, and the linking post that shows how to remove the handle.

HOLYMOLY was that a pain in the A$$ (and I'm somewhat handy). Previous comments show some people completing the fix without removing the door handle - they must have played the game Operation often in their youth; I attempted to remove the part without the handle removal and wasn't able to maneuver the module without finally removing that handle (and that C-CLIP... OMG that was SO TOUGH).

In the end it took me 3.5 hours, and it's been the hardest car repair I have ever completed. Being it's a 2003; 17 year old car... I wasn't about to drop $400 for that type of repair.

Thank you for the write-up it helped immensely!
Also, I used an aftermarket module I found on Amazon for $17.
 

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Thanks. The window lifters are always an inevitable repair job.

Another one is the ignition switch/key barrel/wheel lock mechanism. I wish I had taken photos of the second one either of the times I've replaced those items. There are tricks to make it go so much easier.
 
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