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It's been exactly 7 days since the repair, still running good and no codes. Im thinking the small cracks in the rubber gasket caused the code but all the engine oil flushing I did wasn't going to hurt either. I have a complete new Napa rockerarm selenoid/ pressure switch spool for sale if as anyone is in need of one.
Still trying to figure my element out, same code, replaced parts, cleaned screens, still nothing. Changed oil and filter, removed vvt valve assemblies and cleaned , still trips code
 

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Well my 2005 Element (212K miles) became infected with the P2646 VTEC malfunction code last week. CEL comes on and goes into limp mode (won't go over 2800 RPM). Turn ignition off and back on and goes out of limp mode but usually come back on soon. My 2003 CR-V (199K) has had the same issue for months - shows as P1259 (VTEC malfunction)

What I have done so far to the Element:
Replaced oil and filter 5W-20
Cleaned spool valve, replaced screen and gasket
New VTEC oil pressure switch
Cleaned screen on oil control valve at front of block
Replaced VTEC screen and gasket behind P/S pump on block
Cleaned and checked all electrical connectors

From all the internet posts and forums I have searched, these fixes seem to fix the majority of the problem. The ones that it didn't fix seem to have tried everything and nothing worked - ended up selling or scrapping the vehicle.
Have went beyond this on the 03 CR-V - all of the above plus:

Replaced entire VTEC spool valve assembly (including another pressure switch)
Added 5-minute oil system flush to oil to totally clean system. Changed oil twice afterwards to remove all traces of flush from system
Changed regular oil pressure sending unit

Has anyone out there had this problem and was able to fix it with anything other than what I have done?
Have never heard any mention of the long oil control valve in front of block being bad other than cleaning screens on it - may try this next but don't want to just keep throwing parts at it.
Heard suggestions of adding Marvel Mystery Oil to oil?
Reprogramming ECM?
Have never heard of anyone having luck taking it to a dealer. They insist on following the troubleshooting flowchart and will end up replacing all the parts again and be out a lot of money and still not working.
Will welcome any and all suggestions and will keep posting to this thread with what I have done until they are running right
 

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If the oil is at the correct level I would start by pulling the vtec solenoid on the back left of the cylinder head and clearing the mesh screens in the gasket of debris and go for a drive to see if that fixes it. I have seen the pressure sensor go bad on the solenoid and cause these codes also. But start with the screen first. The good news is Sarkari Result Pnr Status 192.168.1.1 that's it's not usually expensive to fix
 

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Never had figured out. The E has been parked for months as I have other projects needing attention. Seems the oil pressure must be right at the cutoff for activating the switch. Way too much work to change the oil pump - dropping the front subframe to remove the oil pan - for something that may not even work. Thinking of buying various brands of cheap pressure switches - just the switch, not the whole solenoid - off ebay, hoping some brand might have a slightly different oil pressure activation point and may work. Have an 05 element that works fine with WVE brand pressure switch - would trip code with Beck Arnley or original Honda switch. Tried all three on this one with no luck.
Was the problem ever resolved
 

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Well my 2005 Element (212K miles) became infected with the P2646 VTEC malfunction code last week. CEL comes on and goes into limp mode (won't go over 2800 RPM). Turn ignition off and back on and goes out of limp mode but usually come back on soon. My 2003 CR-V (199K) has had the same issue for months - shows as P1259 (VTEC malfunction)

What I have done so far to the Element:
Replaced oil and filter 5W-20
Cleaned spool valve, replaced screen and gasket
New VTEC oil pressure switch
Cleaned screen on oil control valve at front of block
Replaced VTEC screen and gasket behind P/S pump on block
Cleaned and checked all electrical connectors

From all the internet posts and forums I have searched, these fixes seem to fix the majority of the problem. The ones that it didn't fix seem to have tried everything and nothing worked - ended up selling or scrapping the vehicle.
Have went beyond this on the 03 CR-V - all of the above plus:

Replaced entire VTEC spool valve assembly (including another pressure switch)
Added 5-minute oil system flush to oil to totally clean system. Changed oil twice afterwards to remove all traces of flush from system
Changed regular oil pressure sending unit

Has anyone out there had this problem and was able to fix it with anything other than what I have done?
Have never heard any mention of the long oil control valve in front of block being bad other than cleaning screens on it - may try this next but don't want to just keep throwing parts at it.
Heard suggestions of adding Marvel Mystery Oil to oil?
Reprogramming ECM?
Have never heard of anyone having luck taking it to a dealer. They insist on following the troubleshooting flowchart and will end up replacing all the parts again and be out a lot of money and still not working.
Will welcome any and all suggestions and will keep posting to this thread with what I have done until they are running right
Do you still have the problem on your vehicle, was it ever fixed
 

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2008 Element EX AWD TRP
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I checked the plug and it had some corrosion on it, i cleaned it with some brake cleaner and also with a cotton swab, let it dry for a while, then applied dielectric grease and silicone on top of the plug, i really hope this works this time...
Brake cleaner is not contact cleaner. It may wash off loose oxides but will not remove tarnish, a non-conductive coating, from contacts. Dielectric grease is a hydrophobic insulator, a nonconductor used to seal connector bodies and prevent arcing, not to lube the contacts.
 

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2007 EX AWD AT; 2008 LX FWD AT
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My daughter has this problem (now at 219,000); it occurs only after about 45 minutes of highway driving (engine good and warm). I had a long discussion with the service rep at the dealer she was taking it to - after replacing solenoids, valves, screens, etc. they finally did the correct thing and actually measured the oil pressure at the pump while driving it for 45+ minutes - low oil pressure. If the pump isn't putting out enough pressure, no amount of changing spools and switches will solve the problem. It may not be the pump's problem, I suspect my daughter's is just a worn out engine (she wasn't good about having the oil changed and keeping it full) so the engine leaks oil from bearings and the VTEC system resulting in low oil pressure. She is currently running 5W30 oil, but still occasionally gets the code. She doesn't use it for long trips anymore. Mobil1 makes a turbodiesel 5W40 that might help more at elevated oil temperatures while not hurting cold starting too much. Worth a try before replacing or rebuilding the engine.

At about 205,000, her E was using almost a quart of oil every tank of gas. I pulled the head, dropped the pan (lifted the engine off the cradle), pulled the pistons, honed the cylinders, installed new piston seals, rod bearings, and valve seals. Now it doesn't use oil between changes. I should have figured out a way to replace the main bearings without removing the engine.
 

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So Element was at around 225,000 mi. Kept getting lots of solenoid failure error codes and a bit of trouble getting up to higher speeds and was leaking oil at one point. Not sure if my code is the one at the top of this thread, but a search brought this thread up as the most relevant thread to my issues.

Swapped out solenoids lots of times and engine malfunction code saying "solenoid problem" just kept coming back, even if just new ones put in!

Changed filters, changed oil, same code!

So I went to the shop and asked them to do the "drop oil pan and clean oil passages" and basically replace oil pan, said in this thread, as they indicated coating the rusty pan not wise as the coat might come apart.

And the result is........

Car runs about the same as it did before, engine malfunction code came back on.

If anyone has ideas what to try next do post them!
 

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The most comprehensive flow chart I’ve seen for p2646 is the service manual. Service Express

The second most comprehensive discussion I’ve seen about it is on these two you tube videos. Video 1 is an actual car diagosis, video part 2 is the full discussion:


as best as I can summarize, when the ECM wants vtec, it sends 12v signal to the solenoid. Solenoid opens and oil flows. When oil flows, the vtec oil pressure switch is in an ECM feedback circuit which will go from it’s normally closed circuit (0V on feedback wire since it’s grounded) into open circuit (12v on feedback wire since there is now no ground), and the ECM can read the voltage change in the feedback circuit. If the ECM doesn’t read the proper feedback, you get the DTC and go into limp mode.
 

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So with "oil path" ruled out as one of 2 causes for this issue (constant solenoid failures), these being oil or electric, I went back to the shop to have the electric path investigated as per the info in the thread above, thanks for posting.

The result was.....

They thought it was the rocker arm of the oil pressure sensor. It costs around $120 parts wise. So it was changed out and the result was Element runs great! So problem solved. So in my case a part I had never heard of!

Moral of this story: When you get an engine solenoid malfunction in this VTEC on the scan it is probably not/possibly not actually the selenoid!
 

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2009 LX, Auto, AWD, Omni Pearl Blue
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Can you please clarify "rocker arm of the oil pressure sensor." Sounds like the oil pressure sensing switch on the VTEC solenoid, which you said you had "swapped out . . . lots of times . . . even [had] new ones put in." A new VTEC solenoid assembly would have come with a new oil pressure sensing switch, so I'm not clear as to how this last parts swap was anything different than they had done before. Do you have a part number of this "rocker arm of the oil pressure sensor?"
 

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Can you please clarify "rocker arm of the oil pressure sensor." Sounds like the oil pressure sensing switch on the VTEC solenoid, which you said you had "swapped out . . . lots of times . . . even [had] new ones put in." A new VTEC solenoid assembly would have come with a new oil pressure sensing switch, so I'm not clear as to how this last parts swap was anything different than they had done before. Do you have a part number of this "rocker arm of the oil pressure sensor?"
Part number used

HN37250-PNE-GO1

It appears what you are saying is correct. Honestly I'm just going by what I was told. Maybe the problem was we were not using genuine Honda parts before, it seemed we were using cheaper third party parts (replacement selenoids), which perhaps for this particular application just simply are not good enough or do not fit 100%. Or for some reason, the other selenoids did come with a new switch and they used the old one, which was bad.

So maybe other moral is for anything to do with a VTEC you must use genuine Honda Parts?
 

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Newby here, just wanted to comment about this problem. After days of changing everything others have mentioned and still having the problem I discovered most aftermarket parts won't work for this problem, more specifically Dorman parts. I tried two of the Dorman variable valve assemblies with the solenoid valve and oil pressure switch included, neither worked. Eventually I tried putting a different brand of oil pressure switch into the Dorman valve assembly and the problem is solved. Honda has actually updated the original switch but I didn't buy it because it was expensive. I ended up trying another aftermarket oil pressure switch that was not made in China and it works great. - Don't buy Dorman, just clean out your original variable valve assembly and install another decent quality switch - problem solved.
 

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Someone far more knowing than I told me you have to use Genuine Honda Parts for a selonoid part replacement it will not work with after market parts. Things I wish I knew. Honda should literally mail every owner with this. Took months of time and hundreds of extra dollars on my end.
 
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