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Discussion Starter #1
I'm in a bit of a bind. While driving the other day, I opened the driver's side window. The motor worked to pull the window down, but it would not go up.
After searching here I thought it was likely the regulator. I replaced the regulator and motor assembly. Same issue.. the window would go down but not back up. I should have listened the first time for the motor. There is no noise when pressing the driver's side window up. The window lock isn't on, the passenger window works up and down from the driver's side controls - only the down switch appears to be broken on the driver side.

My big issue in the moment is how to jumper the connector so the motor at least pushes the window closed. I have the door panel off but have remounted the window, the regulator and the motor so I'm guessing (and hoping?) the easiest way to somehow operate the motor up would be from the connector which normally plugs into the switch. If I can get the window up, I can keep the PNW rain out and keep testing continuity and order a new power master control switch.

Thanks for any tips. Truly my first big issue with the element in 10 years!!
 

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Most recent vehicles that have power windows with auto-down or auto-up functions have a driver's master switch panel that is actually a control unit. If you have the door panel off you just need to disconnect the window motor harness and use two jumper wires to supply power and ground directly to the motor. Which pin on the motor is positive and which is negative depends on which way you need the motor to run.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Jumper problem SOLVED - Power Window UP when switch fails

For anyone who has a switch failure and the driver's side window is stuck in the down position, this is what I did to activate the window motor to get the window back up until my part arrived (it took a few days for me to order it online and it would have taken even longer from a dealer! So getting the window back up is important in any case!).

On page 22-117 of the official Element shop manual (2003 - mine was a 2004 which this manual covers) there's a procedure outlined to test the window motor. It lists how to jumper the female plug which connects to the power window control unit on the driver's side which I'll list below for reference. NOTE: THE PLUG AND WIRING IS DIFFERENT FOR THE PASSENGER SIDE. THIS ONLY APPLIES TO THE DRIVER'S SIDE

Jumper:

Slot 11 - Green/White wire
Slot 7 - Red Yellow wire

and

Slot 4 - Red/Black
Slot 14 - Black (Ground)

This will make the window go DOWN

In my case I needed to make the window go UP so I jumpered as follows:

Jumper:

Slot 11 - Green/White wire
Slot 4 - Red/Black

and

Slot 7 - Red/Yellow
Slot 14 - Black (ground)

This will make the window go UP. NOTE: Key does not need to be in the ignition for this to work.

Female slots for this plug are:

123 [tab] 456
78[not used]10 11 12 13 14
You can verify by finding 14 black and the other wires mentioned above by slot

I have a picture of my jumper which I will try to upload as well. Hope this helps others who are faced with my predicament!

Thanks too Rustedwrench for your comments and advice!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The switch itself is relatively inexpensive. The driver's side is over $100 at a dealership but I found one online for a little more than half that cost - and it shipped quicker than it would have from a dealer (none had it in stock in my area !?!). I imagine the passenger side is cheaper.

A very manageable project for the intermediate mechanic. No special tools per se. It's finicky removing the trim pieces. I had a pretty good body spade tool which kept me from aping in pieces some people break. And watch to make sure you get the little screws holding the door latch as well as the screw holding the door panel before you try to lift it off.

Lots of references on this site as well as offsite articles and videos. I like this one for a reference:

http://byanwong.com/tag/side/

I'd say go for it and pocket the $2-300 bill to take it to a dealership....
 

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The switch itself is relatively inexpensive. The driver's side is over $100 at a dealership but I found one online for a little more than half that cost - and it shipped quicker than it would have from a dealer (none had it in stock in my area !?!). I imagine the passenger side is cheaper.

A very manageable project for the intermediate mechanic. No special tools per se. It's finicky removing the trim pieces. I had a pretty good body spade tool which kept me from aping in pieces some people break. And watch to make sure you get the little screws holding the door latch as well as the screw holding the door panel before you try to lift it off.

Lots of references on this site as well as offsite articles and videos. I like this one for a reference:

http://byanwong.com/tag/side/

I'd say go for it and pocket the $2-300 bill to take it to a dealership....
Thanks a lot. any chance you have official name/part# of the driver side part? I'll look for the corresponding passenger side part.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Driver's side power window control unit

Honda Part Number: 35750-SCV-A01ZA
Switch Assy., Power Window Master *NH167L* (GRAPHITE BLACK)

http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~switch~assy~35750-SCV-A01ZA.html

Looks like it fits your vehicle BUT double check and don't take my word for it!

Do you have the Honda shop manual? If not that's your best investment. If you get in a bind there's lots of reference materials in the book you will be grateful for in a moment of need.

Good luck - totally doable...
 

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Honda Part Number: 35750-SCV-A01ZA
Switch Assy., Power Window Master *NH167L* (GRAPHITE BLACK)

http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~switch~assy~35750-SCV-A01ZA.html

Looks like it fits your vehicle BUT double check and don't take my word for it!

Do you have the Honda shop manual? If not that's your best investment. If you get in a bind there's lots of reference materials in the book you will be grateful for in a moment of need.

Good luck - totally doable...
Thanks so much =) appreciate your help and i'm glad you fixed your issue!
 

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I just wanted up update this thread, since I previously mentioned an issue regarding the window switch...

A few months ago I found that my passenger window started working only intermittently (I'm sure its not the regulator+motor, as I had replaced it recently). I had this issue fixed last week. It turns out that my switch was faulty and had some corrosion. I think it was telling my passenger window to constantly engage even though the window was already all the way up... which burned out the passenger motor.

The passenger window switch was replaced. It is a cheap part, about $40. Since the passenger window regulator was burned out as a result of the bad switch, it was also replaced. The regulator is a bit more pricey, at around $125. I went with all OEM. Hope this helps someone...
 

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My window went down normally the other week. No weird noises or anything, just when I needed it to go up, it wouldn't. So that makes me think its the switch.

I tried jumping the switch like pnw_element did and nothing happened, up or down, ignition off and on position II. Checked the fuses and sanded them. I have yet to try the tests and grounds but anyone have any other ideas? Im gonna be leaving for a few months and want to get the window up.
 

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Have 2006 Element. Powered the window up (driver's side) when I got home and the next day it would not go down. Can hear and feel the switch activate when activating the up position but absolutely nothing for the down position. Suggestions?
 

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Have 2006 Element. Powered the window up (driver's side) when I got home and the next day it would not go down. Can hear and feel the switch activate when activating the up position but absolutely nothing for the down position. Suggestions?
I’d test the window motor and the switch as the first steps just like in seagiant’s linked video in post #11. you can do the same with either a test light or multimeter And some spare wire, but the power probe makes it very easy.
 
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