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Page 105 of the 2003 manual states:

"If your vehicle's battery is disconnected or goes dead, or the driver's window fuse is removed, the AUTO function will be disabled. The power window system needs to be reset after reconnecting the battery or installing the fuse. You should do the following.

1. Start the engine. Push down on the driver's window switch until the window is fully open.

2. Pull back on the driver's window switch to close the window completely, then hold the switch for a second or two more.

If the power windows do not operate properly after resetting, have your vehicle checked by a Honda dealer."

 

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Automatic window and battery change

I just had to replace my battery. No problem, at least after I found my radio code :) However what doesn't work now is the automatic up and down on the drivers window. Worked before battery was changed. Is there a setting or fuse that could have been messed up? If it matters it is an '05

<<<Disregard, I found the answer in another thread>>>
 

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Thanks, this was much quicker than looking in the manual. esp since it's always in the car - and I'm usually at a PC. Now I have to figure out how to reset or fix the auxiliary function on the radio. That went too after the new battery install.
 

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Auto up, down on window not working

I had to put in a new battary yesterday after the old one died on me and now my Automatic up and down for the driver side window isn't working, the window still works but you have to hold the button down:confused:. Could it be a blown fuse after the attempt to charge my battery and trying to start it up or something else. Not a huge issue but would like to fix it.
 

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From my 07 manual:

  1. Start the engine. Push down and hold the driver’s window switch until the window is fully open.
  2. Pull and hold the driver’s window switch to close the window completely, then hold the switch for about 2 seconds.
 

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I had the same problem, thanks for the info...

I am seriously considering dropping the 75 bucks for the manual.
That was from the owners manual....it cost about $20,000 but came with a free car.

Losts of good stuff has been omited from later versions.

The service manual includes that tidbit plus a few more for a measley $75.
 

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One Touch power window down / up

Hey guys, the search function didn't bring up anything useful, so I'll ask....

I replaced my driver door last night & everything went perfectly! only issue is my "One Touch" driver window up/down function seems to have disappeared!

I'm headed outside to get my owners manual now to see if my answer is there....but in the mean time, anyone know how to reset that feature? thanks in advance.... Pat
 

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help please (Drivers Window Reset)

Just finished installing a genuine honda wiring harness ( in 45 mins, thanks element forums) but one problem... the one touch window button has stopped working... any ideas?

thanks
 

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Yes...it has to be reset every time the battery un-hooked.


Pull and hold the driver’s window
switch to close the window
completely, then hold the switch
for a second or two more.
Start the engine. Push down and
hold the driver’s window switch
until the window is fully open.
.​
 

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Once again proving that this forum us worth far more than the nothing that I pay for it, I found myself replacing the battery and having this issue. Thank you to whoever took the time to read the manual first, rather than, like myself, ran screaming to the EOC forums.....

It actually 'corrected' itself within a few minutes of resting comfortably with the key out in, while sitting in the garage.

By the way, anyone looking for a higher-amp, but stock fitment battery, let me stick in my two cents:

Safe Start batteries, www.safe-start.com, is who we use to stock our battery racks (for diesel trucks), and when I called, they delivered a group 51R, 510CA/625CCA/85 reserve amp, direct-fit unit, for (my wholesale cost) of $53.00, plus the core charge. Considering the original is labeled '410CCA', with no reserve rating, I'd say a greater than 50% increase in CCA was worth more than I paid. And when I say 'direct fit', I mean zero modifications period.

Now, to be fair, that was distribution pricing, but even if you added a modest 30% GPM into that (which is typical of service shops), you'd still have $75.00 wrapped up. And, since my battery was still not 'completely' gone (load tested fine down to 400amps), I can use it for a 12 base power supply for my bench projects until it finally dies. Certainly worth paying the $5.00 core charge.

It also comes with a 75 month, pro-rated warranty, but with 24 months free replacement. We've used these batteries for some time in much larger forms (Groups 78/85/65 are the norm for me), and I've never had a failure, so I think it might be a good alternative to the expensive Optima and Odyssey units.
 
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