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Discussion Starter #1
well......tonight on my ride home my cel turned on......91,500 miles & it's the first time I've seen it, so I'm not complaining.

RPM's surge at idle a little & motor seems to be in some sort of limp mode & tachs out at 5k (basically I think the i-vtec is disabled)

NOW, I checked the manual & it says DTC1009: VTC Advance Malfunction.

I'll admit I was 1500 miles over on my oil change, I was putting it off due to the cold weather & snow.... oil was filthy, so before I start buying parts I decided to change the oil & filter tonight.....with that done, I let it idle for a while, light is still on....checked with my scanguage, but I cannot reset it.

Anyone else have this problem?

Any Tech's with advice?

I did search & found 1 older thread where someone paid/ or warranty paid $400+ to replace the VTC Strainer & filter, which run about $15 for both....

It requires the removal of the serpentine belt, power steering pump & auto tensioner. I was kinda hoping for warmer weather to do this, but you gotta do what you gotta do.....I just don't want to go through all this hassle & the code still shows.

Is there anything else It could be? Or anything I can test or check?

I do have the repair manual, so I'll be buried in it tonight.......I just can't afford to waste aany money or time right now....help guys!
 

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You could try running the engine for about 10min with 1 qt of atf mixed with the oil. Then change the oil and filter. I generally will flush dirt out, unless the engine is really caked up... If the code won't clear at all it may be an electrical fault of the solenoid valve. I'm not a honda tech, bmw is my specialty, but it's a good place to start. Unless someone else has a similar experience to share.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'll take that into consideration, but pouring atf into an engine frightens me....

I'm hoping a honda tech can pop in & give me the "most common" places to look first, I don't want to spend a fortune in sensors tracking down the culprit.
 

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Pat,

I'm with rollertoaster on this one. An engine flush is the first order of business.

If your not comfortable with the above suggestion, then go with one of the "off the shelf" alternatives.

In the past I have used diesel fuel to flush engines. Drain the oil, fill as usual with diesal, run for 2 to 3 min. drain, and repeat until oil comes out clean. Then drain well, change the filter, and refill with your choice of engine oil. The light usually clears by the third drain cycle. If it is an electrical fault, then that procedure will do no good at all.

Dom
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ok guys......I found more info on honda-tech & they suggest using Seafoam as the flush/additive....I've got a case at home.....how much do you suggest I use?

I'm WAY out of warranty & don't want to do anything potentially destructive to my motor/electronics....

as of last night, I changed the oil & filter & went around the block on a test drive....light stayed on... let me know how much & I'll give the Seafoam a shot... also, how long/many miles do you suggest I leave the additive in?

thanks, Pat
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes Paul....the strainer & VTC sensor is located on the front of the cylinder head, right behind the power steering pump....I even removed the plastic engine covers & checked.....no room to work at all without removal. :-(
 

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Pat,

Seafoam is good....even better as you've got some on hand. I like it for "fuel" instead of oil cleaning, where I prefer Marvel Mystery oil. (red...lotsa ATF in it prolly).

No matter, add a regular off the shelf size can...what are they 12 or 16 ounces or so? You can use the whole 12oz or so no problem.

Don't leave it in there and "use" the car all month. But no point in adding it, running for only a few min then dumping it out either. At minimum, I like to add it and drive it to warm things up real good and then let it sit overnight, then run/drive it again and get things good and hot & drain it out. It seems to give the chemicals a chance to work on the sludge when it has a chance to "soak." You could prolly leave it in for a day or so commute to/from work.
*edit: I usually do this before changing the oil...sorry I'm late*

Don't worry, I've used both many times before, they work great with no ill effects.

When you're done try disconnecting the battery for an hour or so and see if it resets the CEL.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Will, thanks for the DIY....I'll give it a shot with some Marvel Mystery oil, as I should have a case of that in the garage as well....no sweat on the timing though....I'd rather waste $15 on the oil, then a few hundred, or hours tracking down the gremlin............. Pat
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, got home & my box from honda was waiting for me.....Got my brakes done on the ridgeline in 40 minutes & I turned my attention to the element.

I poured 1/2 can of seafoam into the oil & gas of the element, hauled asz to the gas station, filled it up & the CEL turned off on the ride back..........feel like I dodged a bullet.....BIG thanks to Rollercoaster, Dom & Will........:-D
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Revisiting this thread, because at 220k my CEL came back on with the same P1009 code......I decided that since I adjusted the valves 3 months ago, I'd throw all the new parts I ordered a while back onto it.....

SO, the first night I swapped in the new VTC valve assembly on the back of the head with a new unit, reset the CEL......Next morning, back on.

SO I tried the VTC Actuator on the side of the head, as well as the VTC Strainer on the front of the head (it was perfectly clean, even after all these miles)...........all in was under 2 hours.

So far, I am 24 hours without a CEL, but I checked the ECU with my scanguage & it is still picking up the code instead of giving me a "READY" message.

Hopefully it clears soon, as I need to hit the Inspection center by Tuesday.
 

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Hey Goos, A little clarification on that code...

The code you got has nothing at all to do with the solenoid and pressure switch on the back of the head. That is the VTEC assembly.

The code you got indicates that there is a problem with the VTC system.

Yes, the letters are very close, but they are two completely different things.

VTEC controls which of the cam profiles is being used by manipulating the rocker arms.

VTC controls the TIMING of the cam itself.

Oil pressure controls both of the systems, but the VTEC comes in around 2500 RPM and the VTC comes in later at a higher RPM.

Cleaning the screen on the front of the head is a correct step. That is the VTC screen.

The SOLENOID on the FRONT (passenger side) of the head is the VTC solenoid.

The signal that the ECM uses to determine if the VTC is operating properly is a CAM POSITION SENSOR. The ECM 'knows' what position the cam should be in at any point in time and if that differs from what it sees it will generate the 1009 code.

There are a number of things that can cause this... but none of them are the VTEC assembly on the back of the head.

Clogged VTC screen, Timing chain stretch, tensioner worn, the VTC gadget on the front of the cam not activating or stuck activated, the cam position sensor could probably cause it, and maybe some other things I can't think of at the moment.

Low oil pressure can cause this too, but I believe when this happens the VTEC codes would be thrown first... (2646, 2647, 2648, 2649) so it's probably not an oil pressure issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Locksmith, Thanks for the pic, I have the manual as well.

Jeffro, I'm aware of what part does what on the engine, just decided to replace them 1 at a time, in order of difficulty, since I have a bad back & happened to have the parts in stock... :-D ... still have no CEL after 145 miles, but computer is still not "Ready" for inspection.........I'll try again later or tomorrow.....
 

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I'm aware of what part does what
I figured that you might...

There is soooo much Misinformation out on the web about VTEC and VTC though... I thought I would throw that out if not for your benefit, but for any future readers.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
10,000 miles later, no cel has returned, and passed inspection with flying colors. Making my final push to 300k.
 
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