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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello folks, wanted to share my journey to add alil mpg and performance to the awd At Understanding the physics to create a change with stick tune.
Ive seen carbureted vehicles and dual staged fueled cars for better enrichment and capitalizing on fuel efficiency. I relocating the second set of oem injectors approx 6-7.5 inches further fr head. Yes did my research on relocation. I port matched the two Mani's. Next is extend stock exhaust runners in to long tube stepped headers( have a second set of stock exhaust). I'll do a tb spacer of 2" and a air ram larger intake next to head light with mesh. Of I have to, I'll mill the head and angle grind valves, port match the head. Yes it's in mock up stage, but it definitely improved over all torque and hp. I set the vacuum switches to activate at 2k, I notice alil rpm bump at 9-1000 of 100 for a it second on slow down, I think if I raise the Hg setting to 2200 it'll subdue that. Just wanted to shower, yes Ive done builds like this on my minivan project and olde classics. Hope this adds to the collective folks!
 

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2003 EX AWD auto
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This sounds cool and all but I'm really confused as to what's going on. Pics are not the greatest and all I see is a nest of wires...?

It sounds like you've taken two intake manifolds and grafted them together? Why? Needed more volume? Longer runner length? Why do you need a 2" TB spacer? Any pics of the new manifold?

You also grafted two exhaust manifolds together? Why?

How are you getting fuel to the new injectors (I assume you're using injectors) and how are you timing/driving them?

How are you measuring success/output? Just seat of the pants feel at the moment?

Lastly, how did you even come to the conclusion that this would be a "good" mod? From my VERY limited understanding, multiple fuel injection points (port and throttle body) used to be employed because of poor flow dynamics and fuel/air mixing. These days Toyota is the only one I can think of that uses multi-injection points (direct and port) and that's more for valve cleaning and not necessarily power...? Honda's K-series has some of the best flowing heads with the low cam lobe designed and staggered to create swirling to promote air/fuel mixture.

Sorry about all the questions. It's a very interesting approach.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes, no prob Zzz, I was just posting a small hastened post, stock manufacturing only allows for packaging fitment, not best efficiency and performance of what physics has to offer. This build was because I don't want to go to a MT. This is soley to share with us on here who might want options with the slush box. As a collective for us E owners who don't want to boost or spend a killing, this is how we over come the limitations of a stock tune, like old oBD tuners. Just using gd ole know how from precedence establish in the community of auto building R&D. The research to allow air speed and runner length to atomize your fuel and not lean out your cylinder is pretty welll documented. I've seen a Miata use ITB's and yes tuned gave the individual 15 hp on a Dyno, ",yes I'm not tuned, hence the research and my approach is for people who don't want to swap over to MT to get a tunable ecu. The physics has been used in allot of racers and high dollar cars, but you pay out the nose for exact fueling for power and efficiency. No it's a stock manifold with bungs welded at the aft apex of the bend to be almost paralel with the air flow, the bend will allow fuel to enter the stream at a point if turbulence and being approximately 7-8 inches from the valve allows for better atomization in the air stream. I tested just the new location and it would stumble , so I tested Rpms and some where between 1200-1500 was the air velocity adequate to keep stoich, the engine would pull hard and less throttle at each rpm. This was my R&D of several weeks. Any further of a distance would take tuning. I lyes there's after market plenums/ intakes,but theyre for most of the light vehicles, we want to keep the high velocity to maintain the low end torque especially with an automatic. The E and CRV are heavier so I don't want to have to rev , I want a torquer 2.4 not a rappy one. Then your going to have to drive like launching. So this just helps create more if a A/F mixture creates better combustion translates to more conversion to power. All of this allows for a cooler intake charge and combustion temp with more efficacy with your wave front on ignition.
I will post a staged chronological build. Oh yes I ran a tee on the original bend to the fuel rail, added a fuel line extension to the new fuel rail near just above radiator. If you look up dual stage fueling alot if top performing cars do this .
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, no prob Zzz, I was just posting a small hastened post, stock manufacturing only allows for packaging fitment, not best efficiency and performance of what physics has to offer. This build was because I don't want to go to a MT. This is soley to share with us on here who might want options with the slush box. As a collective for us E owners who don't want to boost or spend a killing, this is how we over come the limitations of a stock tune, like old oBD tuners. Just using gd ole know how from precedence establish in the community of auto building R&D. The research to allow air speed and runner length to atomize your fuel and not lean out your cylinder is pretty welll documented. I've seen a Miata use ITB's and yes tuned gave the individual 15 hp on a Dyno, ",yes I'm not tuned, hence the research and my approach is for people who don't want to swap over to MT to get a tunable ecu. The physics has been used in allot of racers and high dollar cars, but you pay out the nose for exact fueling for power and efficiency. No it's a stock manifold with bungs welded at the aft apex of the bend to be almost paralel with the air flow, the bend will allow fuel to enter the stream at a point if turbulence and being approximately 7-8 inches from the valve allows for better atomization in the air stream. I tested just the new location and it would stumble , so I tested Rpms and some where between 1200-1500 was the air velocity adequate to keep stoich, the engine would pull hard and less throttle at each rpm. This was my R&D of several weeks. Any further of a distance would take tuning. I lyes there's after market plenums/ intakes,but theyre for most of the light vehicles, we want to keep the high velocity to maintain the low end torque especially with an automatic. The E and CRV are heavier so I don't want to have to rev , I want a torquer 2.4 not a rappy one. Then your going to have to drive like launching. So this just helps create more if a A/F mixture creates better combustion translates to more conversion to power. All of this allows for a cooler intake charge and combustion temp with more efficacy with your wave front on ignition.
I will post a staged chronological build. Oh yes I ran a tee on the original bend to the fuel rail, added a fuel line extension to the new fuel rail near just above radiator. If you look up dual stage fueling alot if top performing cars do this .
Oh Once I do my mids I'll post exactly with what I used all OEM with some basics parts , exhaust is next with a using exhisting top and all exhaust runners with adding a larger stepped tubing to the cat so I'll double the length of the primary, this will dump into a collector just before a cat that I will replace to a .5" larger diameter to creat a scavenger effect for more pulse. I did this on my mini van project. Yes I've tested these theories on other cars. "Yaznick", I bieve his name talks about this is racing. Remember most manufactures build a basic longevity platform, even the performance one" supra, STI's , Vw GTI's I don't follow that it's all tested and maxed on performance, because people show there is alot if power " under the curve" most go for max HP that doesn't allow you good pulling power, unless you're launching all the time, I say long intake runners with a turbo are great street light racers lol.
 
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