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Discussion Starter #1
This is some pics of the soundproofing I did in the rear section, i dont have the front done yet will load pics when done.
 

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all the little pieces are interesting.....were they left over or is there a purpose for that? I have heard that plastic roofing cement works great and can be applied with a roller.
 

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Does the material that partly covers the wheel well look and feel like the stuff you added? I am guessing that Honda already applied some such material, even if they didn't cover things thoroughly. If my understanding of dynamat is correct, you don't have to complete cover the surfaces for it to be effective. It is a sound dampener, not a complete sound barrier.

paulj
 

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paulj said:
Does the material that partly covers the wheel well look and feel like the stuff you added? I am guessing that Honda already applied some such material, even if they didn't cover things thoroughly. If my understanding of dynamat is correct, you don't have to complete cover the surfaces for it to be effective. It is a sound dampener, not a complete sound barrier.

paulj
That's correct. You don't need to coat everything, because dynamat isn't an "insulation" type of sound deadener. It simply takes vibrations (sound waves/road noise) and converts it to heat, so you wind up with less vibrations. It doesn't need to be spread on like paint in order to work.

The stuff that Honda uses does work, but not the same level as Dynamat. Honda's is more insulation-based to kill the sound.

One of the coolest things you can do with dynamat is take a 1 x 1 square, take your door panels off on your front door, and slap it right in the center on the metal. When you close your door it sounds like its about 15 pounds heavier and as thick as a luxury car's door. A cool upgrade for a few bucks.
 

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sier said:
One of the coolest things you can do with dynamat is take a 1 x 1 square, take your door panels off on your front door, and slap it right in the center on the metal. When you close your door it sounds like its about 15 pounds heavier and as thick as a luxury car's door. A cool upgrade for a few bucks.
I might have to try that!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
the purpose of the little pieces was nothing more than I didnt want to throw it in the trash, also it is better to cover all the area as much as possible because it helps get rid of more vibrations and road noise, but i dont mean every square inch either. I have used this in all my vehicles and I used it at the IASCA World Finals. The honda stuff isnt as good as dynamat because its not made of the same material and is cheaper. As to the door panels the more area you cover the better, and yes it will sound like a very expensive car door. www.dynamat.com also there is a new kind that was shown at the CES show called hush mat that is supposed to be as good, the difference is that there is nothing it wont stick to and you dont need to prep the surface area before you apply it.
 

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ELEMENTDUDE I am going to wrap my frickin dishwasher in this stuff. It is driving me crazzzzzy!!!!
Come on ELEMENTDUDE. Driving you crazy? How far of a drive can that really be?

Actually I HATE loud dishwashers too. It pays to spend the big bucks when it comes to sound proofing. I rented a townhouse and the dishwasher in that place was so loud it could raise the dead. I think they sell sound blankets especially for dishwashers. I installed dual dishwashers at my sisters house a month or so ago and each one came with a think blanket.

Joe Mama
 

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Phreaxer said:
a much cheaper, and equal if not superior product is www.raamaudio.com

I will be getting 2 rolls myself and post a tutorial on how to properly apply the material.
What is that product called? :?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
the stuff at raamaudio is alot harder to deal with than dynamat and it also says that if it doesnt sound deaden the area apply a second layer, so whats the point if you have to do the work twice and use double the material. It doesn't matter to me what anyone uses Im just thinking that its a waste of time and they must not be sure of their product
 

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emt4diving said:
the stuff at raamaudio is alot harder to deal with than dynamat and it also says that if it doesnt sound deaden the area apply a second layer, so whats the point if you have to do the work twice and use double the material. It doesn't matter to me what anyone uses Im just thinking that its a waste of time and they must not be sure of their product

haha, should I be obvious and point of the ignorance of your comment... First off, RAAMat is not harder to work wihth than dynamat (please for the love of god validate your statement). here is my validation. I have worked with both, and on numerous occasions each. In fact, Dynamat is sharp as hell and cut the crap out of me everytime, meanwhile, I have never cut myself with RAAMat (and used it a lot more). Multiple layers are suggested for both products if you feel you want to do them... RAAMat is widely used and liked by very intense car audio competitors and marketing to them, RAAMaudio has suggested multiple layers... I know guys who have used 4 layers on their roofs due to the vibrations of bass. I know guys who have used the same amount if not more dynamat as well...not to mention $250 for 32 feet of dynamt vs. 72' of raamat for $100...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If you are so sure of your product then dont get so defensive, I dont know why you get cut, but I will tell you this I have used it since it came out and have never been cut yet I have installed over 2200 feet of this product so I think I know what im talking about. I guess by what you are saying you have never competed in IASCA events or been to world finals which is by the way invitation only!!! I also dont have a clue where you get your prices but thats way off the mark--- not to say that there isnt someone out there trying to make a million. Also dynamat you dont have to worry about overlaping or cutting an extra inch. etc.This is directly from the web site: You can apply Dynamat in patches (25-50% area coverage) to keep a specific panel from resonating or you can apply it over an entire area (such as the floor, doors, or trunk) to create a sound barrier and thermal insulator. If you are competeing in SPL compettion then this is why you would need an extra layer-- If you are building an SPL competition vehicle to compete in dB Dragracing, IdBL or USAC, Dynaplate is the right product for you. Dynaplate is designed to maximize the rules for the street car divisions of each organization. If you are competing in a sound quality forum, Dynamat Xtreme is a better choice. If you are bridging large holes in your door panels, first install a layer of Dynaplate then install a layer or two of Dynamat Xtreme. In closing I didnt mean to hurt your feelings there will be a tomorrow.
 

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Why are you using dynamat instead of dynaliner?
I thought dynaliner was for doing the floors and doors, and dynamat went on top of it to increase sound deadening.
Plus dynaliner comes in rolls vs square sheets.

I have looked into doing this and asked about in it mobile electronics but nobody every responded.

How hard is it to install that other stuff rammat?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
dynaliner is 1/2' foam with backing, and yes it is for under the floors but it is used for acoustics rather than sound deadening, the liner comes in rolls due to it is easier to install with carpet because carpet comes in rolls and so it will not show seems through the carpet. hope that helps if not www.dynamat.com
 

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I am familair with the site, thats where I got my info from.
According to the site the dynaliner is also used for sound proofing.

Which do you prefer?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
xtreme for the front and firewall area due to the heat resistance, original for the rest of the area including the doors
 

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Hey EMT-

Have you ever heard of FatMat ?

It comes in rolls (50' and 100'), and has a self adhesive backing to it.
You can get the 100' roll for $100 + shipping.
The site list it is good for all apps (floor, doors, etc...) but they also list another material for the floor. My only concern on the floor would be heat related.

100' roll should due the whole interior of the E I would think (firewall to tailgate on the floor, all 4 doors and the rear hatch.)

The next question is how hard is it to rip the plastic off the doors and rear hatch?
 

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emt4diving said:
If you are so sure of your product then dont get so defensive, I dont know why you get cut, but I will tell you this I have used it since it came out and have never been cut yet I have installed over 2200 feet of this product so I think I know what im talking about.
And how much Raamat have you used? and do you use a roller? I do not, so that probably explains that...

emt4diving said:
I guess by what you are saying you have never competed in IASCA events or been to world finals which is by the way invitation only!!!

Dont get all high and mighty on me now. Im an IASCA member, and I am VERY familiar with Finals...

emt4diving said:
I also dont have a clue where you get your prices but thats way off the mark--- not to say that there isnt someone out there trying to make a million. Also dynamat you dont have to worry about overlaping or cutting an extra inch. etc.


Ok, so just because some moron wants to charge more for an equal product... you will pay it to make sure he makes a million... Dont have to worry about over lapping? neither product REQUIRES overlapping, both are recommended though...

emt4diving said:
This is directly from the web site: You can apply Dynamat in patches (25-50% area coverage) to keep a specific panel from resonating or you can apply it over an entire area (such as the floor, doors, or trunk) to create a sound barrier and thermal insulator.
Yeah, I believe everything a products website spews forth as verbal diahrrea.

emt4diving said:
If you are competeing in SPL compettion then this is why you would need an extra layer-- If you are building an SPL competition vehicle to compete in dB Dragracing, IdBL or USAC, Dynaplate is the right product for you. Dynaplate is designed to maximize the rules for the street car divisions of each organization. If you are competing in a sound quality forum, Dynamat Xtreme is a better choice. If you are bridging large holes in your door panels, first install a layer of Dynaplate then install a layer or two of Dynamat Xtreme. In closing I didnt mean to hurt your feelings there will be a tomorrow.
The vehicles I had mentioned are in fact DB Draggers... aka knuckle draggers. aka 150db vehicles... Rangers with 4 15s in a wall, astro vans with 6 18s, etc...
 
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