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This is some pics of the soundproofing I did in the rear section, i dont have the front done yet will load pics when done.
That's correct. You don't need to coat everything, because dynamat isn't an "insulation" type of sound deadener. It simply takes vibrations (sound waves/road noise) and converts it to heat, so you wind up with less vibrations. It doesn't need to be spread on like paint in order to work.paulj said:Does the material that partly covers the wheel well look and feel like the stuff you added? I am guessing that Honda already applied some such material, even if they didn't cover things thoroughly. If my understanding of dynamat is correct, you don't have to complete cover the surfaces for it to be effective. It is a sound dampener, not a complete sound barrier.
paulj
I might have to try that!sier said:One of the coolest things you can do with dynamat is take a 1 x 1 square, take your door panels off on your front door, and slap it right in the center on the metal. When you close your door it sounds like its about 15 pounds heavier and as thick as a luxury car's door. A cool upgrade for a few bucks.
Come on ELEMENTDUDE. Driving you crazy? How far of a drive can that really be?ELEMENTDUDE I am going to wrap my frickin dishwasher in this stuff. It is driving me crazzzzzy!!!!
What is that product called? :?Phreaxer said:a much cheaper, and equal if not superior product is www.raamaudio.com
I will be getting 2 rolls myself and post a tutorial on how to properly apply the material.
emt4diving said:the stuff at raamaudio is alot harder to deal with than dynamat and it also says that if it doesnt sound deaden the area apply a second layer, so whats the point if you have to do the work twice and use double the material. It doesn't matter to me what anyone uses Im just thinking that its a waste of time and they must not be sure of their product
And how much Raamat have you used? and do you use a roller? I do not, so that probably explains that...emt4diving said:If you are so sure of your product then dont get so defensive, I dont know why you get cut, but I will tell you this I have used it since it came out and have never been cut yet I have installed over 2200 feet of this product so I think I know what im talking about.
emt4diving said:I guess by what you are saying you have never competed in IASCA events or been to world finals which is by the way invitation only!!!
emt4diving said:I also dont have a clue where you get your prices but thats way off the mark--- not to say that there isnt someone out there trying to make a million. Also dynamat you dont have to worry about overlaping or cutting an extra inch. etc.
Yeah, I believe everything a products website spews forth as verbal diahrrea.emt4diving said:This is directly from the web site: You can apply Dynamat in patches (25-50% area coverage) to keep a specific panel from resonating or you can apply it over an entire area (such as the floor, doors, or trunk) to create a sound barrier and thermal insulator.
The vehicles I had mentioned are in fact DB Draggers... aka knuckle draggers. aka 150db vehicles... Rangers with 4 15s in a wall, astro vans with 6 18s, etc...emt4diving said:If you are competeing in SPL compettion then this is why you would need an extra layer-- If you are building an SPL competition vehicle to compete in dB Dragracing, IdBL or USAC, Dynaplate is the right product for you. Dynaplate is designed to maximize the rules for the street car divisions of each organization. If you are competing in a sound quality forum, Dynamat Xtreme is a better choice. If you are bridging large holes in your door panels, first install a layer of Dynaplate then install a layer or two of Dynamat Xtreme. In closing I didnt mean to hurt your feelings there will be a tomorrow.