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Sauce Box. The Haltech has multiple ports for sensors that can protect the engine. I had the oil pressure sender break off in the block. Loss of oil & pressure but the Haltech pressure sensor shut down the engine at 10# and stopped the engine from being damaged. I also have fuel sensor, AFR sensor, EGT sensor, water temperature, and boost. Hondata has some but not as many and not as easy to setup. The Hellement will live and be well as long as I am on the green side. It is a fun ride and suits me to a "T".

Does halltech compatible with emissions scanners like the hondata which can "help" pass emissions test ?
 

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Does halltech compatible with emissions scanners like the hondata which can "help" pass emissions test ?
Depends on your emissions system. Here in Co you need the Ob11 connection regardless of what the test shows. Idiots don't understand a stand alone or modified ecu. The Hondata or Haltech can be programmed to pass any emissions test. Way more variable than the stock ecu. Now, I made a patch cord so that the machine thought that it was reading my Ob but was hooked to Hondata. No problem, pass with flying colors. I also use some of their #s to program the Hellement to be better than stock on emissions and it doesn't bother the power or performance. Best of all choices.
 

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Awesome that's exactly what I wanted to hear???? Gonna have to add a haltech to the build list thanks for the info
 

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Hey there! Here to say another 6MT conversion was successfully completed on the Canadian side! Maybe this post will help those looking for a newer updated part list and procedure.

Here are the parts I used:

Reverse Shift Piece 24240-PNS-000
Mainshaft 6th Gear 23590-RAS-A00
Needle Bearing (35 x 41 x 24) 91103-RAS-003
Collar (28 x 35 x 24) 23916-PNS-000
Countershaft 6th Gear 23491-RAS-000

My Element did not have a welded reverse shift piece so I drove out the roll pin and simply slid on the new one (there was no place for a roll pin to drive back in, this is okay).

Some info to clarify about the 5-6 Synchro Sleeve set; I did not purchase it banking on the fact that I would be able to flip the 5-6 Synchro Hub. I had thought of this before reading another person had tried this and thought it was brilliant! There is a downside to this though. There are little detents in the grooves of the hub that help keep from popping out of gear (from factory these are facing the 5th gear). By flipping it to face 6th gear, you risk popping out of 5th. To also clear some confusion, the only reason this conversion is possible is because there's a synchronizer cone ring (the brass ring) on the 6th gear side of the sleeve set. When you take it apart you'll see it fits onto the 'angular' spacer between the sleeve set and the bearing on the end of the shaft.

After a stout 2000km road trip across Maine, I can say the 6th gear is holding up perfectly. 5th gear will only 'pop' out when you put it under a lot of load (going up steep hills or accelerating hard to get onto highway). It will not pop when under light load like casually accelerating up to speed or even downshifting into 5th under the same circumstances. This can be overcome though if you hold the shifter (not with all of your force, just enough to stop it).

You do not need to buy the 'special bolt' - you can reuse it and it torques to around 86 ft-lb (left hand thread). Make sure to remove the lock out cam for reverse otherwise you'll have trouble shifting into 6th. I also modified the slot to allow for reverse in it's "new" position by 6mm.

When you are reassembling the transmission, the snap ring in the case that goes onto the countershaft can be hard to seat. I did some research and basically it requires you to 'drop' the transmission on the ground. Sounds scary, but if you put some wood under the open end where the clutch would go (about 2-3" worth) and pivot the transmission on the wood - you can gently tap the other end of the case on the ground to seat the countershaft snap ring (you might be able to set it in place, open around the groove but it won't seat until you hear it click into place). Just a heads up!

My fuel mileage gas increased from 10L/100km to about 7.5L/100km.

I've attached some pictures to help explain some of these details!

Cheers from Canada! More to come about my Element soon!
 

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I would like to report I will be exploring the reverse lockout addition for this mod when I do it in the next month or two.

I will report back with compatibility and execution. Currently my only mechanism for release will be a momentary button. Ideally I can program something with logic from the VSS to say when under 5mph, release.
 

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SO, I'm actively shopping around to complete this conversion at the moment. I went to a local yard and pulled an AWD MT out of an another E to use as I can continue to drive mine.

Main question I have, is the ORIGINAL POST list correct? According to the post late last year (above) the original list has been cut WAY down!? I understand there was some modification needed and some risks to be taken with the shorter list, but I just wanna make sure I get all I need to have this complete and be usable and reliable, of course while not overspending too much also!



 

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SO, I'm actively shopping around to complete this conversion at the moment. I went to a local yard and pulled an AWD MT out of an another E to use as I can continue to drive mine.

Main question I have, is the ORIGINAL POST list correct? According to the post late last year (above) the original list has been cut WAY down!? I understand there was some modification needed and some risks to be taken with the shorter list, but I just wanna make sure I get all I need to have this complete and be usable and reliable, of course while not overspending too much also!
Your first shopping cart is the one I used for all the parts I have ordered already. If you want to do it correctly and OEM like, then the synchronizer sleeve is necessary. Additionally a shifter mechanism from a RSX will allow for reverse lockout.
 

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From what i remember, and it's been a long time since i read about it. The reverse lockout on the 6MT RSX is a solenoid activated pin that is triggered when the vehicle is moving above 5 km/h. It might not be worth adding for all the modifications and easier to just train yourself to not shift into reverse.

For those having issues with the countershaft snap ring, it may because the additional 6th gear changes the spec for the shaft to be longer so Honda has different thickness spacer ring P/N's for replacing that spacer to the correct range. That assembly note was written in the Honda factory service manual.
 

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From what i remember, and it's been a long time since i read about it. The reverse lockout on the 6MT RSX is a solenoid activated pin that is triggered when the vehicle is moving above 5 km/h.
This is true and why I bought the entire mechanism from an RSX. The mechanism is a direct swap for the element casing. It's as simple as wiring a momentary switch to get into reverse. It only requires a 1 wire run of 12v and the second wire goes to ground. It's a simpler mod than you think, unless you try to replicate the factory logic. In which case you need an arduino, a oscilloscope and time to decide and program the logic to do if below X mph then send voltage.
 

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This is true and why I bought the entire mechanism from an RSX. The mechanism is a direct swap for the element casing. It's as simple as wiring a momentary switch to get into reverse. It only requires a 1 wire run of 12v and the second wire goes to ground. It's a simpler mod than you think, unless you try to replicate the factory logic. In which case you need an arduino, a oscilloscope and time to decide and program the logic to do if below X mph then send voltage.
wish i would of known that, there was a wrecked one in the tow yard for a while when i did my 6th gear, also im familiar with electronics and around, i could of defiantly done that, darn

also, 6th gear running strong, love it
 

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wish i would of known that, there was a wrecked one in the tow yard for a while when i did my 6th gear, also im familiar with electronics and around, i could of defiantly done that, darn

also, 6th gear running strong, love it
It's pretty easy to change the shift mechanism once the transmission is installed.
 

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Your first shopping cart is the one I used for all the parts I have ordered already. If you want to do it correctly and OEM like, then the synchronizer sleeve is necessary. Additionally a shifter mechanism from a RSX will allow for reverse lockout.
Perfect! SO, did you already do the swap, or in the process of doing so? Please lemme know how it went and if ALL the parts you ordered are needed and used.
 

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My build and swap is still pending. I don't see any reason I won't use my full parts list though. I will keep you updated and try to document the process with my gopro when I do it.
 

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I just repaired a ZFJ3 in a '04 Element EX that had a bad ring gear. I was prepared to replace the countershaft, but when I realized that i could reuse the countershaft i put the $ toward 6th gear. I DID NOT replace the 5-6 syncro hub. All is well, no issues. Thanks to all that made this possible.
 

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I started making progress on this build. Tore down the donor 2WD transmission, started pulling apart the gears to replace synchros and needle bearings.

  • In doing that realized, I should replace the second gear due to wear.
  • additionally realized the differential is slightly different between 2WD and 4WD. So the parts needed to convert a transmission to 4WD would be a ring gear, differential and the slightly longer bolts.
  • So now waiting for both those parts on order.
Also not terribly excited about measuring shim thickness and buying that $200 tool. How has everyone else dealt with the shim thickness measuring?

I'll have my current 5 Speed 4WD transmission for sale once I finish this build and swap it in. Only has about 108k miles right now for someone wanting to build this without taking their car down.
 

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You don't need to spend that much on the tool for shim thickness. if you have access to a drill press and a table saw you can make the main part out of wood and use a perforated pipe strap to clamp it to the shaft, or position your dial indicator on the top of the shaft instead.
 

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You don't need to spend that much on the tool for shim thickness. if you have access to a drill press and a table saw you can make the main part out of wood and use a perforated pipe strap to clamp it to the shaft, or position your dial indicator on the top of the shaft instead.
thanks for this!

I feel like this item is the perfect candidate for 3d printing. Could print them for like $15.00
 

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SOoooooo. I just got this email from acuraautomotiveparts.org....they are out of the 6th gear. Placed a new order with Honda parts now. LUCKLY, acuraautomotiveparts has shipped ALL my other parts. Just a heads up!

 

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Thanks to rhurt, and all others who made notes, another 6MT out on the roads!
Notes on my experience:
Missed the need for 14mm allen for cap on trans to get to circlip holding the countershaft
Cleanup to seal the case's back together took forever
Couldn't get criclip to seat back onto countershaft, had to pop trans on the ground(block of wood) to get the countershaft to drop into position once it was all together.
Hardest part I found was getting the trans back attached to the engine, snout did not want to go into it's home.
 
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