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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had a scare the other day while out of town about 40 miles away. All of a sudden, my '05 Element engine started bucking badly at anything above 3000 RPM's. I happened to find a recommended transmission shop near the auto parts store that I stopped in to check on the price of a diagnostic code reader. They had an expensive looking reader that threw a code of P2647. The code translated to "Bad Vtec oil pressure switch" I took a chance and purchased a new switch which is located on the left rear valve cover. A little stretch to get to, but by removing a bracket that holds the power steering hose, you can unscrew it with a 22mm socket and extension. The switch and a new o-ring cost $72 with tax. I removed the old one and screwed in the new one, a 10 minute job. Started it up and Fixed!! Honda wanted $190 labor plus the cost of the part. Apparently this is a common failure for the switch. I read some other posts about cleaning the switch, oil screen ect, but this did not need to be done in my case. Just a FYI if you are having a problem that matches the symptoms.
 

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.................. Apparently this is a common failure for the switch........
Had this same thing happen on my '99 Ody. Cleaning the screen is all that needed to be done....
 

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Had a scare the other day while out of town about 40 miles away. All of a sudden, my '05 Element engine started bucking badly at anything above 3000 RPM's. I happened to find a recommended transmission shop near the auto parts store that I stopped in to check on the price of a diagnostic code reader. They had an expensive looking reader that threw a code of P2647. The code translated to "Bad Vtec oil pressure switch" I took a chance and purchased a new switch which is located on the left rear valve cover. A little stretch to get to, but by removing a bracket that holds the power steering hose, you can unscrew it with a 22mm socket and extension. The switch and a new o-ring cost $72 with tax. I removed the old one and screwed in the new one, a 10 minute job. Started it up and Fixed!! Honda wanted $190 labor plus the cost of the part. Apparently this is a common failure for the switch. I read some other posts about cleaning the switch, oil screen ect, but this did not need to be done in my case. Just a FYI if you are having a problem that matches the symptoms.

e quipped...i know the job is done already...but if you gety time can you post the pictures of the switch and location...thanks in advanced
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I think I have thrown away the old switch, but could probably find a pic of it on the internet somewhere. The location I will take a decent picture or two of and post it. I had a Honda dealership tech tell me a day or two ago, that they are seeing lots of these defective. So much so that when I went into the dealership parts dept., the counterman had the price and part # memorized... Anyway, I wanted to try and save someone else some money, because it was a pretty easy job and I'm no car mechanic. Really the only trouble I've had with my Element since new, 70K miles now.
 

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I experienced the same issue in my 06 Element. After reading the posts above, I decided I could struggle with it for a day or two. Day three with no fix, early afternoon I stop for a route pickup. When I restart, the engine light is no longer on, and over 3K RPM is just fine. I can only assume the there was some kind of "trash" in the switch that eventually cleared. Thoughts?
 

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Have the same problem on my 06 element would I need to erase the code or would it correct itself on its own after changing the solenoid?
If I were you, try cleaning the screen or replacing it before spending the money on a new valve. My 04 had these symptoms and I found my screen extremely dirty (124k). Take it on a test drive and verify it’s fixed before you reset the code. Which you will have to do.

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If I were you, try cleaning the screen or replacing it before spending the money on a new valve. My 04 had these symptoms and I found my screen extremely dirty (124k). Take it on a test drive and verify it’s fixed before you reset the code. Which you will have to do.

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Well, i had cleaned it about a year and a half ago the rubber gasket was still in great shape and cleaned it out worked perfectly fine for about a year and then because of pandemic reasons I really wouldn't go out but the problem started again, I took it out and the gasket was basically level to the solenoids surface and so currently I'm not living in the US so it's pretty difficult to find just the gasket itself in my area and have to rely on wrecked cars that are parted out and sold that way here so I ended up to purchasing a new one altogether.
 

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Have the same problem on my 06 element would I need to erase the code or would it correct itself on its own after changing the solenoid?
You should have your battery disconnected when replacing the VTEC solenoid and screen. The code should be cleared on its own by the time you finish install and reconnect the battery.

If it hasn't been replaced yet on 2006, not a bad idea to replace the VTEC solenoid so you can have a working car and forget about the problem coming back.

Good luck.
 

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You should have your battery disconnected when replacing the VTEC solenoid and screen. The code should be cleared on its own by the time you finish install and reconnect the battery.

If it hasn't been replaced yet on 2006, not a bad idea to replace the VTEC solenoid so you can have a working car and forget about the problem coming back.

Good luck.
Thanks mate, yeah I disconnected the battery, cleaned the terminals on it, were kinda corroded, drove it a few miles I'm expecting the check engine light to come up again but for a rich cylinder code and my thermostat that needs replacement but i hope the solenoid troubles should have gone away
 

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If I were you, try cleaning the screen or replacing it before spending the money on a new valve. My 04 had these symptoms and I found my screen extremely dirty (124k). Take it on a test drive and verify it’s fixed before you reset the code. Which you will have to do.

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I've changed this assy and worked for a bit. And back to the same issue. I connected to the computer and have more codes.
 
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