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I have on '03 Element EX with 98,000 miles. Last fall, it started exhibiting a strange behavior that went away after a week and hasn't occurred again until last week. Now it's happening all the time and I need to fix it. I just wonder if any of you have any idea what might be happening. Here's what it does:

I am usually able to drive for a few minutes normally, even at highway speeds. However, after a period of time, the engine suddenly develops a "stutter" at 2700RPM or above. It doesn't matter what gear I'm in or what speed I'm going. I have seen it in town when accelerating from a light and also on the interstate when I'm going 75MPH. When this occurs, the throttle becomes completely unresponsive. The only way to get power back is to wait until the engine drops below 2500RPM, at which point the power comes back instantly.

Once this starts, I can continue driving, but have to be careful not to exceed 2700RPM. I have pulled over and shut the engine off, and that usually will let me drive normally for a few minutes, until the same behavior starts again. It's ALWAYS 2700 RPM where the problem starts, and it's always 2500 RPM where the throttle responsiveness returns as the RPMs decrease.

My check engine light is on, so I'm assuming the two problems are related.
 

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Yes, of course they're related!!! (Sorry... this is a "merely obvious".)

Get the code(s) read. AutoZone and other D-I-Y car parts stores will read codes for free. People may jump in here and second-guess, but until you have the code results in-hand we're all in the dark.
 

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Okay, Mike. Sorry - I got the codes now. There are two codes:

P2646 - which could mean:
1. Check engine oil level and pressure
2. Open or short circuit condition
3. Failed VTEC pressure switch

P0141 - which could mean:
1. Open or short circuit condition
2. Failed electrical connection
3. Faulty H2O switch

I'm not sure where to start from there.
 

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OK, I was sort of afraid that a VTEC code was going to be one of the answers here. That's not an area where I have hands-on expertise, and my service manual is 500 miles away at the moment. Hopefully one of the others here who know their VTEC stuff will chime in and let us know what's next.

In the interim - frequently, switches and sensors diagnosed as "failed" by the ECU are little more than loose connections. From what you describe in the onset of the problem, I'd be poking around the engine head jiggling and otherwise checking all of the various sensor and switch connections to make sure they're solid.
 

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I am not a mechanic so I have little to offer.

P0141
Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Secondary HO2S (Sensor)), Heater Circuit Malfunction

P2646
Rocker Arm Oil Pressure Switch (VTEC Oil Pressure Switch) Circuit Low Voltage
 

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Don't know if this helps either.

the Secondary H2OS goes to Connector E (20-21)

Rocker Arm Oil Pressure Switch goes to Connector B (11)

Both of these have the Camshaft Position Sensor A in common which goes to Connector A (19)
 

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When you have a faulty heater cirscuit code 99% of the time oxygen sensor is bad. Secondary is the rear o2. The element in the o2 (the heater) heats up on cold start to burn left over or rich condition on start up. Ive seen in the civics when you get the vtect code the oil level is too low and the v tec mechanism doesnt have enough oil pressure to operate properly. The vtec code is probably why your car is running poorly.
 

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Any resolution here....inquiring minds need to know...:rolleyes:
 

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I hope to have an answer tomorrow...

Same issue with mine...taking her to get the codes read tonight. Problem started yesterday morning but went a little further than the previous poster's issue in that she died at the light while I was trying to turn around.

I have an 03 DX Manual 2WD E with aaaaaalmost 94K on her.

I left my house, got about 1/2 mile down and she jerked as I was shifting into 3rd gear. I thought ok, my feet are wet, maybe I slipped on the clutch, I'm still tired.

Got another 2 miles up the road, shifted again and stutter at 3000 rpm, this time CEL came on. I came to a light and downshifted to first, and darnit if she didn't die on me completely.

I started her back up, turned around, limped her home the 2.5 ish miles and 1/2 way home, light went out and she accelerated past 3000 rpm.

I changed the oil last night (Amsoil 5W-20 extended life and Fram filter) and within 2 miles of test driving the CEL went out. I then drove her without incident for approximately 45 miles.

This morning however was a different story. I got about 3/4 way to the office and light came on and she bucked on me at 3000 rpm. I limped her the last mile to work and turned her off. Turned her back on and no problem, she accelerates fine to 3000 rpm and beyond.

I'm guessing I'll need to replace the VTEC oil sensor and/or the O2 sensor(s)...I'll keep everyone posted with my codes, outcome and prices as this unfolds.
 

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Try reading this thread!

I think it will help. There are several threads that can help you. Do a search for p2646 !

Dom
 

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Thanks much, Dom! I read the thread and hope its the code I get, all things considered...
 

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My car had the EXACT problem starting yesterday. Took it to the dealer today, and they ended up replacing the pressure switch. Hope that fixes it as of course the problem wasn't happening when I dropped the car off. I'll find out tomorrow on the ride back.
 

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Same issue here. I did take it into Spreen Honda and had the solenoid replaced. $317 later...and i mean 3 minutes later after driving off the lot. BAM...same issue, check engine light came on and i was back to driving at 2500RPM. Immediately returned to the shop and will be waiting for further information...once the get their additional diagnostic tool in. Whatever that means. More $$ i am thinking.

I read on a post that after changing you should let it rest for a few hours to solidify the seal. We didn't do that...could that have been it?

UGH. :-(
 
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