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Discussion Starter #1
Recently the check engine icon appeared on my ’04 EX w/ manual transmission. At 1st I was hoping it was just an improperly tightened or bad gas cap. Now it seems more likely it’s the evaporative canister because I insist on filling my tank beyond the normal pump turn off & have read that isn’t a good idea. I’ve yet to have the error code checked, but am betting on the canister. Can anyone tell me where said canister is located, if there’s any way for me to test it is there any difference between automatic & manual transmissions’ canisters? I’ve done a little shopping & notice the canisters on the Internet seem to be for automatics only. Also, if the canister is gasoline logged, what problems will result in continuing to drive the vehicle that way? Last, if I replace the canister myself, will something need to be reset in order to get the light to go out?

JH in OH
 

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Get the code read first before jumping to conclusions.

This is my ongoing irritation with "check engine" idiot lights. Literally pennies worth of electronics can be put in the car to show you the code, or at least give you some indication whether its piffle or impending doom.
 

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The canister is behind the gas tank.

I had an intermittent check engine light, off when warm and dry, on when wet. Turned out to be one of the O2 sensors, specifically its heating circuit. That seems to be a common reason of the light. While symptoms and discussion here pointed me in that direction, it was the code reading that was definitive.
 

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We need a code to give any valid advice
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Saga Contiues.......It's the O2 Sensor

First, thank you all for your advice. I stopped by Advance Auto Parts and they diagnosed the problem as the front O2 sensor in front of the cat. Interestingly, their price for a replacement was close to $200 whereas my local Honda dealer quoted me around $130. I read where someone had their problem diagnosed by a parts shop as being the front sensor, even though the rear seems to be more problematic, replaced it - but still had the error. Replaced the rear sensor, reinstalled the original front sensor & the code went away. Soooooo, I'm a little concerned over having the same thing happen to me. The Honda dealer wants $82 to run a check. Anybody have thoughts on the front sensor being the culprit as opposed to the rear? For what it's worth, my "E" sits a lot - especially during the riding season if that helps with which sensor is most likely to be bad.

Again, thanks to all who responded to my question!
 

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First, thank you all for your advice. I stopped by Advance Auto Parts and they diagnosed the problem as the front O2 sensor in front of the cat. Interestingly, their price for a replacement was close to $200 whereas my local Honda dealer quoted me around $130. I read where someone had their problem diagnosed by a parts shop as being the front sensor, even though the rear seems to be more problematic, replaced it - but still had the error. Replaced the rear sensor, reinstalled the original front sensor & the code went away. Soooooo, I'm a little concerned over having the same thing happen to me. The Honda dealer wants $82 to run a check. Anybody have thoughts on the front sensor being the culprit as opposed to the rear? For what it's worth, my "E" sits a lot - especially during the riding season if that helps with which sensor is most likely to be bad.

Again, thanks to all who responded to my question!
Every vehicle is different. What you have read was likely a one off happening. Lats year i replaced the rear sensor in mine. The code that was read was called for the rear sensor....Sensor replace...Problem solved. If you don't trust the diagnosis that the autoparts store gave you get a second opinion. If the code you got is for the front sensor chances are it is the front sensor that is bad?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
No surprises here............saga over.

I went ahead & ordered the front O2 sensor from our local Honda dealer and was able to replace it using a 7/8" SAE open-end wrench in just a few minutes. I wasn't able to determine how the wiring socket attached to its metal support bracket or loom at 1st & removed it to get a better look & was able to find the magic release tab. The replacement sensor even had Never-Seize already applied to the threads. So far so good. Thanks to all for your guidance!
 

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I have this problem on my GTI. Good way to tell if it's the canister is it'll take you 45 minutes to gas up from empty to full, darn pump will click off every 5 seconds.
 
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