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Discussion Starter #1
2005 model

It seems the factory amp is draining my battery, Its all original, no extra anything, unplug the amp, problem goes away.

Id really like to be able to listen to the sub, is there a way I can rewire something so that the amp doesn't draw anything with the key off?
 

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MM 2005 EX, AT southwest WI
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Sorry for the long answer. Looked at the Electrical manual for the 05 EX (Bishko from Rockauto, cheap). I canna believe the things Honda powered on at all times, the Amp among them. Pin A11 on the connector you have been unplugging is a blue/orange wire that goes directly to fuse 7 in the under dash fusebox, a 20A fuse. It is on at all times. None of the ignition or acc on fuses/switches have that high a rating so either you'd have to check/correct the idle current on your amp or put a relay in series with that line with the coil powered from fuse 8 in the under dash fusebox, a yellow/red wire that powers the head unit. Might make sense to temporarily break the blue/orange line and measure the idle current. I've no idea what it should be, maybe someone here does. Goofy!
 

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Jayohio we need more details about your vehicle.
Is the sound system still 100% stock?
Have you done anything to the vehicle recently related or unrelated to the audio?
How have you determined that it is the amp causing the power draw?
The amp powers every speaker in the Element not just the sub, so unhooking the amp would cut ALL of your tunes not just the bass.



Marv you are mistaken about the 20amp fuse & blue/orange wire. That is the primary power supply for the amplifier, but it will not draw anything unless it has been turned on. Interrupting that wire will not fix the issue and only adds unnecessary complexity.

The Yellow/Green wire in the small plug at the amp is the remote turn on, which is what the radio uses to turn the amplifier on & off. When the radio is turned on it sends 12v to the yellow/green wire which kicks on the amplifier. When the radio is turned off the yellow/green wire loses power, and the amplifier shuts off. I would check this wire first and see if it is showing power when the radio is off.

If the wire has power when the radio is off, the radio could be the problem & has failed to close the remote circuit thus never telling the amp to turn off when it should.

If the wire does not have power but the amp is still on, then the remote circuit in the amp has failed and the amp needs to be replaced because the radio is trying to turn it off but the amp is not listening. Easy way to test this is turn the radio on (yellow/green will have power) then cut the yellow/green wire. Cutting the wire should shut off the amp & the music will cut out, if the music stops then you may need to revisit where you think the power draw is coming from. If the music doesnt stop then the amp is truly staying on when it should not be.
 

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MM 2005 EX, AT southwest WI
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Thanks Audiophyle, That makes more sense. That wire being labelled antenna in the wiring diagram threw me. Does the amp use a FET or a relay internally to power up when it gets the command signal from the radio? Just for my info.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
System is 100% stock
nothing has ben done, everything is factory 100%
The amp was unplugged and the battery drain stopped
I still get sound out of the other speakers with the amp unplugged

The plug that is unplugged is located next to where your right leg would be while driving, under the housing for the sub

I have read other places that this amp has caused similar problems with other Elements.
I just would like to reroute it to a switched power position instead of powered all the time.

Thank You for answering
 

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isn't the amp over in the passenger kick panel?
my memory is fuzzy about this.

if so, then disconnecting something near the right leg of driver would disconnect the sub from amplifier but let the other speakers carry on.
 

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MM 2005 EX, AT southwest WI
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isn't the amp over in the passenger kick panel?
my memory is fuzzy about this.

if so, then disconnecting something near the right leg of driver would disconnect the sub from amplifier but let the other speakers carry on.
Yes. I assumed earlier it was the amp connector at the amp in the kick panel that was being disconnected.
 

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Thanks Audiophyle, That makes more sense. That wire being labelled antenna in the wiring diagram threw me. Does the amp use a FET or a relay internally to power up when it gets the command signal from the radio? Just for my info.
When there is power on the yellow/green remote wire the amp's power supply is activated, which uses an integrated chip instead of a traditional array of mosfets. In theory the amp's remote circuit should close upon a failure, meaning a dead amp would power down & become a paper weight, but there are often exceptions.


System is 100% stock
nothing has ben done, everything is factory 100%
The amp was unplugged and the battery drain stopped
I still get sound out of the other speakers with the amp unplugged

The plug that is unplugged is located next to where your right leg would be while driving, under the housing for the sub

I have read other places that this amp has caused similar problems with other Elements.
I just would like to reroute it to a switched power position instead of powered all the time.

Thank You for answering
The amp has 2 large plugs, unhooking either would kill sound to ALL speakers.
It is also located in the passenger kickpanel below the glove box & next to the door jamb where a passengers right foot would be. What you are unplugging is NOT the amplifier.

If you are unhooking a grey plug with 4 wires that is mounted to the black plastic subwoofer enclsoure, then all you are doing is unplugging the subwoofer. This should have no impact on the amplifier, which is still very much connected. Can you take a picture of the plug you are unplugging, or find a picture of it on the internet?
I find it extremely unlikely, but if one of the sub's coils has shorted, it might be possible to cause the amp to have a parasitic draw without actually turning the amp on in the process. What I find to be more likely is the factory amp has a flaw somewhere in the audio output section, and because it is a chip amp all of the speaker channels pass through a single chip, so unhooking the sub would cut the amp's draw in half because you have essentially unhooked half of the audio IC's connections. This could appear to have fixed the draw when all you really did was slow it down.

You will need a digital multimeter (DMM) to test the sub, and you would measure the resistance (aka impedance) in ohms across the two voice coils.
On the subwoofer side of the plug there are 2 red & 2 black wires, each goes to a voice coil. You would measure across the red & black on the left, and then across the red & black on the right, and they should both read the sale resistance value, which should be somewhere between 2 & 4 ohms. Anything below 1 or above 6 would mean a bad coil.
If the sub coils test fine, then you should replace the amp in the passenger kick panel.



Sure there may be a small handful of Elements that people have reported issues with the amp, but there are also THOUSANDS of Elements that have never had this problem. This should tell you something is wrong and needs to be fixed, not McGyver'ed by some garage mechanic who thinks he knows better than the countless engineers at Honda who designed the entire system.
Fix the problem the correct way, trying to bypass the actual issue with a "quick bandaid" will only lead to more issues and more headaches. & we are here to help you do just that.
 

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I have an amplifier on my desk that I have been experimenting with, and I thought I'd perform a couple tests just for you.

Connected to power but off, there is ZERO power draw as expected. (there is a 1ma draw for a split second as the internal capacitors charge up)
Turned on but still idle (no input sound) the amp's draw rests at 380ma.
Connecting & un-connecting speakers on all channels made zero impact on the amp's power draw.
Interestingly enough, shorting a speaker connection (a common situation when a speaker fails) increases the amp's power draw, which I saw fluctuating from 440ma to as high as 2000ma (dead short between leads).

However, with the amplifier off (& no power draw) I could not do ANYTHING get the amp to turn on by itself, no matter what I tried. Shorting out individual speakers, shorting out ALL of the speakers, grounding out speaker leads, even connecting the speakers to power, there was no change on the amp's power draw which remained at zero.

I still question that the amp is your culprit here, but if it actually is then something must have failed inside your amp.
 
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