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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi Folks!
I'm trying to get a suspension upgrade front and back done to make my 2008 EX a bit better on fire roads and for carrying the extra 240lbs of my dirt bike on the hitch carrier. I have 10 days. Is it possible to do without getting into all of the problems that seem to crop up in the 3x2 jobs people are doing in the front end? Right now front and back look like sh*t from underneath, (see the photos :rolleyes:), so I'm ready to do full suspension replacement and upgrade kits to get a little lift and resistance in the back to cover the dirt bike. I have no idea what I'm doing so I'm hoping you all can suggest sort of bone head proof kits that, like I said don't open up a can of worms in the front end handling. I'm cool putting in the Moog camber adjustment though if that makes sense anyway. High carbon rotors and Hawk LTS pads are going in at the same time.

Someone suggested a 1.5" lift kit (below) and bigger tires with wheel spacers.

Was also wondering about heavier springs, but I've only got 10 days and heard the only heavier springs come out of Austria.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts! Dave

Lift kit 1.5"
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rushing your build is a bad idea, along with doing a lift without engine sub frame drop kit. Otherwise you are putting strain on your old drive axles. Might want to first rebuild your stock suspension and add rear adjustable control arms so it can be four wheel aligned properly before doing any lift upgrades.
 

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Couple things I'd add to this thread:
  • Get a good sawzall blade ready, you're going to need it for those rear lower control arm bolts. Guarantee those aren't coming out without a fight
  • You're going to be removing a bunch of stuff, so you might as well replace it: sway bar bushings, sway bar end links, outer tie rods, and (by the looks of it) CV axles.
  • I'd recommend no more than 2" lift all around unless you're planning to drop the subframe.
  • If you use some quality struts and some fresh springs, you'll probably be ok without too much sag in the rear
  • Not sure what you're planning on putting your motorcycle on, but most hitches for the E only have a 150lb tongue or hitch rating. It'll probably be fine, but worth noting.
Happy to add in any more thoughts if I can be helpful. Coming from the midwest, your project looks like you'll need some solid eye protection under there :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I'm getting a list together of the things I'll need to replace. I heard elsewhere bolts. I'll post back this afternoon but in the meantime, I'm looking at the HRG 1.5" lift kit, which they said wouldn't require a subframe drop. They suggested that with oem spec'd new struts/springs and maybe if I wanted bigger tires might be fine enough for keeping the back end high enough with the dirt bike on the carrier (it drops the rear end only 3/4" when loaded, but there's still that old 2008 sag going on anyway that needs addressing). Does anyone have any suggestions on decent strut/springs to put in. I also heard I'd need new bolts, but wasn't sure where?
Thanks in advance, Dave
 

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The new bolts are for the rear lower strut. 80% chance you will have to sawsall them out. The lower bolt does not seize in the threads, it seizes in the strut bushing.

I put in Monroe quick struts in the rear and they have been good for 45k miles. My OEM rear struts were already sagging by 50k. There is a thread somewhere about a frankenstein rear strut that gives about 1.5" lift on its own. IIRC you put an Element top hat on a CRV rear strut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I like the idea of the CRV struts with the element top hats. I don't have a way to change the top hats and hold spring compression and doubt the local mechanic will want to be part of this experiment. Still, I called Monroe because "Locksmith" who did those CRV strut mods to his fleet of elements said while there was more lift, the springs were not as stiff. Monroe said those springs will bottom out as a result, and ABS won't behave the same, wearing braking parts and other parts in the rear potentially fairly quickly, and said a sensor, maybe balance sensor which I never heard of, would need calibrating. He had no recommendations on other stiffer springs citing liability issues for them, but did say using a lift kit atop the strut, conservatively, if it doesn't change the angles of anything else, would be a safe way to get some lift.
Anyway, for anyone saying don't rush suspension mods, ok, point taken ; )
 

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It’s just a huge investment and ride quality is so important. Personally I don’t like a vibrating steering wheel. Your old original drive axles will be the biggest challenge in my opinion. Why not do the subframe drop? Am not a fan of Monroe quick struts or Moog anything. Go OEM if you can.
 
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