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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We'll I have joined the list of the do it yourself'rs and completed an indoor bike mount setup with one 96" 2x4 ($2.29 at lowe's), some XPort bike mounts ($9.99 at performancebike.com), 4 1/4" dia x 1" lag screws and 1/4" washers for the mounts (~$1 at Lowe's), and a box of 4" long wood screws ($6.29 at Lowe's). I work not in the nicest part of KC and wanted to make a secure setup for my road bike. Likewise, I typically ride around the downtown airport here which is nearby. It fits two bikes between the folded seats or just one with either seat folded up. It is totally removable when you don't need it too.

Regardless, I don't have pictures with me today at work, but I will update probably on Monday with my fabulous farmer engn'rn. I even have an AutoCAD drawing with dimensions if anyone else wants to try. Sorry, I would put things up sooner but I am heading out of town today. Plus it builds suspense.

Have a good weekend
 

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I'm in the process of setting up an internal bike mount for my new E and I've been looking around at what others have done. Any reason why you have the mounts set back like that? Is it because the bikes would hit the clam shell if the fork mounts were on the front peice of wood? It looks great! Thanks for posting pictures.

Nina
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes and yes...

ninacan said:
I'm in the process of setting up an internal bike mount for my new E and I've been looking around at what others have done. Any reason why you have the mounts set back like that? Is it because the bikes would hit the clam shell if the fork mounts were on the front peice of wood? It looks great! Thanks for posting pictures.

Nina
The short answer is yes. I set them back to allow for the road bike bars to clear the rear hatch.

I have seen some poeple on here do it with just one piece of 2x4 but they were all mountain bikes without bar-ends. Also, on those that I have seen the handlebars just clear the seat in the back to allow for a wider setup.

The longer answer is still yes. By putting the mounts back and slightly escewed, I can accomidate any bike/handlebar setup. You have to watch how far back you want to go, my wheels basically rest just behind the armrest, between the two front seats.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Nuts and Bolts

Well I don't have more pictures yet but may have some more by tomorrow.

I will at least give the run down of the supplies you need and the basic assembly steps.

Tools needed:
  • Drill or drill press with ~3" of travel or more
  • Mitre Saw or Circular Saw (mitre saw is extremely preferred, borrow from someone if you need to)
  • Screwdriver adapter for drill
  • Clamps with at least 13" of opening if you got them, two legs and a steady set of hands if you don't (I had the latter or a helper could be nice)
  • Maybe a 7/16 box wrench or socket wrench

Supplies needed:
  • 1 - 96" 2x4 ($2.29 at lowe's)
  • 2 - XPort bike mounts ($9.99 at performancebike.com)
  • 4 - 1/4" dia x 1" lag screws and 1/4" washers for the mounts (~$1 at Lowe's)
  • 1 - box of 4" long wood screws ($6.29 at Lowe's)
That's it.

First step is sawing the 2x4. You will need to measure out and saw:
  • 1 - 48" cut
  • 1 - 28" cut
  • 2 - 6" cuts

Next you will need to notch the ends of the 48" piece to fit in the back of the element. I had to expirement around a little to get this right but one side is roughly a 60 degree cut and the other side is a 50 degree cut. I was able to dial my mitre saw to 60 and 50 without any issue. I will try to show some picture of this. Make the cuts and test and cut until you have it fitting okay in the back.

I will go over the drilling of the holes next time. I have to get back to work.
 

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Biz Mattie said:
The short answer is yes. I set them back to allow for the road bike bars to clear the rear hatch.

I have seen some poeple on here do it with just one piece of 2x4 but they were all mountain bikes without bar-ends. Also, on those that I have seen the handlebars just clear the seat in the back to allow for a wider setup.

The longer answer is still yes. By putting the mounts back and slightly escewed, I can accomidate any bike/handlebar setup. You have to watch how far back you want to go, my wheels basically rest just behind the armrest, between the two front seats.
I measured with my mountain bike and had it planned to sit closer to the shell but I hope to get a road bike someday soon ::fingers crossed::. I didn't think about how much further the bars stick out on a road bike; good call. Thanks for the shopping list:)
 

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Clearance for road bike bars is to set your mount 6" back from the back edge of the spate tire cover. If you look at the bikes mounted up it looks like the brake levers will hit the glass but they don't.
 

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Nicely done! I like what you did because it is the first set up that would work with how I carry my tools and inventory for work. I think with a little modification I can make it work for both. That way I won't have to take out my current work set up when I go cycling.

Mucho gracias.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
flatlander said:
Nicely done! I like what you did because it is the first set up that would work with how I carry my tools and inventory for work. I think with a little modification I can make it work for both. That way I won't have to take out my current work set up when I go cycling.

Mucho gracias.
That is exactly what I thought after I made this, I am sure in a year I will make this again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sorry about not finishing the post, I will complete the project pictures and work done here in the next couple of days. I haven't been able to take pictures of the E with the bike rack due to the car being filled with baking soda. I wrote about it on this thread. Sorry for the delay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
cut change

Well I don't have more pictures yet but may have some more by tomorrow.

I will at least give the run down of the supplies you need and the basic assembly steps.

Tools needed:
  • Drill or drill press with ~3" of travel or more
  • Mitre Saw or Circular Saw (mitre saw is extremely preferred, borrow from someone if you need to)
  • Screwdriver adapter for drill
  • Clamps with at least 13" of opening if you got them, two legs and a steady set of hands if you don't (I had the latter or a helper could be nice)
  • Maybe a 7/16 box wrench or socket wrench

Supplies needed:
  • 1 - 96" 2x4 ($2.29 at lowe's)
  • 2 - XPort bike mounts ($9.99 at performancebike.com)
  • 4 - 1/4" dia x 1" lag screws and 1/4" washers for the mounts (~$1 at Lowe's)
  • 1 - box of 4" long wood screws ($6.29 at Lowe's)
That's it.

First step is sawing the 2x4. You will need to measure out and saw:
  • 1 - 48" cut
  • 1 - 28" cut
  • 2 - 6" cuts

Next you will need to notch the ends of the 48" piece to fit in the back of the element. I had to expirement around a little to get this right but one side is roughly a 60 degree cut and the other side is a 50 degree cut. I was able to dial my mitre saw to 60 and 50 without any issue. I will try to show some picture of this. Make the cuts and test and cut until you have it fitting okay in the back.

I will go over the drilling of the holes next time. I have to get back to work.
I made the 6" cuts now 5 1/2" cuts, it helps with the tire clearance behind the front chairs.

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Got lazy and never finished this...

Sorry about never finishing the instructions... I will try to explain some more of the process, but am including a bunch of pictures that should give you guys enough information to figure out what you want to do. And don't be afraid to ask me anything if I am missing something.

Drilling instructions:

Find a drill bit (hopefully a long one) that is smaller in thickness than your 4' screws

It helps to draw a center line on 28" and 48", that way you can center the two pieces with each other.

Take the 5 1/2" and arrange them like they are in the picture. Once everything is centered, you can clamp it all together with some wood clamps if you got them, no big deal if you don't just make a lot of pencil marks showing alighnment. The hole pattern is one screw in the middle and 1 each on either side roughly 1" apart. If you have a long drill bit and every thing clamped just drill through the boards for the hole pattern. If not drill the two long boards and then the ends of the short boards. Switch to your drill to a phillips bit and screw those 4" screws in. Without clamps, just work at it one side at a time.

Bike Mount Clamps placement:

Notice in the pictures where I place mine. They are slightly escewed from each other because I ride a road bike (Driver side) and my girlfriend rides a hybrid (Passenger Side). Because the mounts are offset and tilted you can get both bikes in with the seats up and and just have one bike in at a time and still let one seat down.

Suggestions for ideal placement is for you to take off the front wheels of the two bikes you want in your car and mount the bikes to the clamps. Then (it helps if there are two people doing this) fold up the seats and set the two bikes in, remember to turn the handle bars so that they both can fit. Make your marks on the board once you have everything how you like it, drill holes and screw in your screws.

An alternative way to get everything how you want it is to fold one seat up, I usually prefer the seat behind the drivers side, and then get one bike aligned to where it fits. Don't forget to turn the handlebars, and then make a mark for one screw (the one on the left if you are looking from the tailgate). This way you know that you can have at least one chair down while also having a bike in the element. Fold the other chair up, set in your other bike, and pivot the first bike handlebars to where it fits with the second bike, then make your other mark, drill, and screw. Then repeat the process on the other side.

More Pictures:

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Sorry again!

I'm looking at my last write up and it is totally weak. I hope this at least gives people some ideas.

I will say though I can fit both bikes in the back with the seats just folded up (not removed) and can still fit one bike in at a time on either side with one seat folded down. The gap in the middle works nicely to hold stuff like your shoes to keep them from sliding around. Also by having the board just fit that spot in the back with the notched ends, stuff doesn't move around at all and you can pull the whole thing out without unscrewing / unlatching anything.

When I get time (please don't shoot me) I will take a lot more pictures with bikes in place and gear loaded up.:grin:
 

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Did you look through this thread? There are quite a few models here:
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5695

What you made looks really functional! I hope it is working the way you need it to. As far as I am concerned, it's all about making the parts work for each of our individual needs.

My own personal design is on page 4 of this thread. Still using it today.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Had the camera so here are a few more pic's. Note: I could move the mounts closer to the rear and get some more room for the wheels, I guess you could go to the 4" size for the two small 2"x4" cuts. The road bike is my longest bike too.



I think I am obsessively looking at these forums again, I am going to have to self impose a hibernation period. It is so damn addictive.
 
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