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Hi everyone, I have an 04' orange lunch box. I bought it new and loved it up until now. Since I have reached the 60.000 mile mark, I decided to fix everything then decide to keep or sell this cool car. Everything was fine until I wanted to fix the "clicking sound at sharp turn" issue. I got a new cv joint/axle assembly (left). I tried to take out the old axle but everything is breaking and I am simply stuck!

Someone PLEASE HELP and tell me what is trick to get the axle out? I already took off the nut on the axle, took out the 2 screws from the rotor (one broke) disconnected the upper portion of the hub and ready to push out the axle with a puller mounted on the rotor by the lug bolts (the rotor broke too so I got a set of new rotors and pads) took off the brake calipers. The axle seems to be "welded" into the hub. What am I missing? Thanks.
 

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Sounds like you went the wrong way. After removing the axle bolt remove the 2 bolts holding the strut to the spindle and remove the steering link and the 3 upper bolts and remove the strut. Also unhook the link for the swaybar. spray some WH40 and tap the shaft inward to remove inward. as for the inside joint use a large screwdriver or prybar and pop out the inner joint. Fluid will leak out of the transmission so you will have to refill it afterwards and reinstall the axle. Just be careful not to pull out the inner cv while installing the new shaft. I just replaced mine and it took about an hour taking my time.
 

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Thanks for the quick response! First I tried to simply "tapping the shaft inward". I did not move at all so at that point knowing that I have a new axle, I started hammering the axle as hard as I could (see mushroom on pic.). Still nothing. Then I decided to remove the 2 screws that hold the rotor. I wanted to remove the rotor to see what on earth is preventing the axle to move. So I grabbed an imapct driver and proceeded to remove the 2 srews that hold the rotor. The bit in the impact driver broke in half! I grabbed a new bit and continued when one of the screws broke in half. Then I tried to pull the rotor off, that is when it borke too. At this point I just want something to give!!! I sprayed - I soaked - this whole assy with PB Blaster still nothing. So my question is: Is there anything on the inside of the spindle that stops the axle from moving? A pin or anything? I guess there should be nothing so all I can think of that I live in Iowa and they dump a bunch of salt on the road every winter which resulted the parts simply corrode together in the past 5 years so bad I might just start cutting things out with a grinder...The other thing I don't get is that there is a shoulder of some sort on the outside that is actually in the way of the rotor...how am I supposed to pass that if its diameter is bigger than the hole diameter on the rotor...this whole thing came to full stop for me.
 

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Slimer pretty much nailed it, but just to clarify a few points....

You don't have to completely remove the strut from the car, just remove the 2 big bolts that hold the strut assy to the spindle. Also, you don't need to remove the steering linkage. It saves a little time doing it this way, and you stand less chance of breaking bolts or tearing the boot on the tie rod. As for the broken screw in the rotor, it's not a necessity, it just holds the rotor in place when you remove the wheels. Slimer's comment "Just be careful not to pull out the inner cv while installing the new shaft", is a little misleading since you bought the entire shaft. Hold the spindle and pull it outward while hitting the threaded portion of the old shaft with a large hammer, it will slide through the spindle. Once it's free from the spindle, the only thing keeping the shaft attached to the transaxle it the inner cv. The inner cv is held in by an internal circlip (snap ring). Put a pry bar between the transaxle and the cv joint and pry them apart. Once it's past the circlip it will slide out easily. As Slimer said, transmission fluid will leak out.

When going back together with the new shaft, be careful not to damage the seal on the transaxle. When it slides in to the point where it stops, you'll need to tap it past the circlip to lock it back in place. Be careful not to damage the threads on the new shaft. You may need to start the nut on the threads to protect them. DON'T hit it too hard or you can damage the transaxle. Just tap it to the point that the clip is engaged. The 2 large bolts that hold the strut to the spindle effect the camber setting. Make sure you torque the new axle nut and make sure to get it aligned asap. Everything else is pretty much self explanatory.

Not trying to step on your toes or pi$$ you off Slimer, just wanted to clarify some of your points for him.;-)
 

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Thanks for the quick response! First I tried to simply "tapping the shaft inward". I did not move at all so at that point knowing that I have a new axle, I started hammering the axle as hard as I could (see mushroom on pic.). Still nothing. Then I decided to remove the 2 screws that hold the rotor. I wanted to remove the rotor to see what on earth is preventing the axle to move. So I grabbed an imapct driver and proceeded to remove the 2 srews that hold the rotor. The bit in the impact driver broke in half! I grabbed a new bit and continued when one of the screws broke in half. Then I tried to pull the rotor off, that is when it borke too. At this point I just want something to give!!! I sprayed - I soaked - this whole assy with PB Blaster still nothing. So my question is: Is there anything on the inside of the spindle that stops the axle from moving? A pin or anything? I guess there should be nothing so all I can think of that I live in Iowa and they dump a bunch of salt on the road every winter which resulted the parts simply corrode together in the past 5 years so bad I might just start cutting things out with a grinder...The other thing I don't get is that there is a shoulder of some sort on the outside that is actually in the way of the rotor...how am I supposed to pass that if its diameter is bigger than the hole diameter on the rotor...this whole thing came to full stop for me.
The shoulder in your pic is NOT larger than the hole in the rotor, it's an optical illusion. The shaft is probably just rusted in the bearing and the rotor is rusted onto the spindle. Worst case scenario, remove the spindle (leaving the shaft in it), separate the inner cv from the trans and take it to a machine shop, they can press it out. It may damage the wheel bearing, so be prepared to buy a new one. It will also have to be pressed out and the new one pressed back in. Patients...save the grinder for other projects.
 

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The procedure per the service manual (available from Helm and site sponsor HandA) is to separate the ball joint from the lower arm, allowing the hub to swing out and away. That could be your problem; the axle has nowhere to go.

See also:
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58595
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53227
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=807130
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=842503

Looks like you're doing the passenger's side. No tranny fluid will leak out when you remove that axle.

Good advice on not forcing the new axle in on the tranny end.
 

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It does look like the spindle is frozen in the rotor bearing and no I am not misleading on the install as the inner is a trunion and not a CV joint and from experience after the lift job on mine and others that have done the same thing there is no stop on the rollers in the trunion and if you pull a little too hard they will come out of the socket and you will find it impossible to get them back in without removing the boot ring. The removal of the strut just gets it out of the way but not necessary as again mine has a lift kit. If you cant get it to move the worst thing you will have to do is get a replacement spindle assembly from ether a junk yard or Honda. Salt is a big contributor on the sticky parts and thankfully they don't do that up here so mine came right out with a couple taps.
Also forgot. You can just remove the whole spindle off the lower control arm and take it to a shop that has a press and get it pushed out but I would replace the bearing after that as it could damage the bearing and its cheapier to do it now then removing it again. I love graves.:x
 

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...and no I am not misleading on the install...
Maybe my choice of the word "misleading" was improper. My point was just to clarify what you had already stated, but in a more descriptive manner as well as giving him the option of not removing the strut assy. As for the inner joint being a trunnion vs. cv, I understand, but since he's replacing the entire shaft assy. and the old unit is a core, who cares if it comes apart since it's not being reinstalled. There's always more than one way to get something accomplished.

I apologize if I offended you Slimer, I was just trying to help.
 

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Its not the removal that would be the problem its the install that he has to watch. When you install the new shaft and the spindle is hangine like it is in the photo it will pull apart the inner CV and then its a heck of a time to redo it. Trust goofy me as it happened to me when I did the CCM lift on mine and a few other have had it done to theirs. I used a strap from the upper bolt to something on the body after that and it held it from doing that. Like I said from my stupid experiance.
 

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I understand your point now. I thought you were telling him to be careful not to pull the old shaft apart. It's all good....:grin:
 

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Heck use a blue tooth wrench. (Torch) to get the old one out if need be.:grin: I know what its like to have something not work for you. You are about to explode and walk away for awhile and come back and get it done or whats worse is when you can't get it done and someone else takes a look at it and with a quick something to do it works great for them in a couple seconds.:x Haven't heard from the OP but hopefully he got the old axle out and it replaced.
 

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I have an 03 and recently replaced the driver side drive axle without any problems. The passenger side is being very difficult though. It's as though the inner joint (female) is just frozen/rusted onto the outer intermediate shaft. Does anyone have any tricks or suggestions to get the drive axle out? Your help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Separating Ball Joint

Has anyone changed an axle on their Element without separating the ball joint? I can't see any reason why the ball joint needs to be separated even though the repair manual says it does. Looks to me like once the two strut bolts are removed you can move the knuckle enough to get the old axle out and new axle in.
 

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just struggled with this issue

Hi all my first post ......I'm redoing my suspension on my 2006 exp. ran into tow big issues on the front passenger side....one was getting the axle spindle out and the other was removing pressing out the ball joint. it's real important to follow the steps when knocking out the axle spindle.After taking off the the axle nut and brake caliper and the rotor spray the spindle with some pb blaster .....I made the mistake of removing all items I was replacing .....LCA ....strut and tensioners that attach to sway bar and LCA ..I then tried to remove the steering knuckle to replace the ball joint.....big problem was axle was in there pretty tight and wobbling all over so tapping and what not wasn't effective....figured out that i needed to replace/ put in new parts in order to re-attach steering knuckle to keep it in place when tapping....I was spraying the axle joint at the hub in the knuckle quite a few times thinking it was rusted....rented all the puller tools and etc from advanced auto etc.....watched a **** load of u tube videos and finally decided to button up everthing except lower control stablizer ...need to have play in LCA to manuver things if need be. I started to reinstall strut without having lower ball joint resting in the LCA HUGE MISTAKE ...while moving axle/knuckle out the way to install the strut I pulled the axle out of the inner joint where the 3 round bearings ride in the cup thingy......couldn't pop in the lower ball joint and couldn't bolt into strut.......had to remove the strut again and remove the larger boot on inner joint by cutting the band .....some grease poured out but not that bad since temps in the 40's....now a two man job since axle pretty heavy and some one needed to make sure boot was pulled over cup thing when trying to reinstall....put a zip tie on as a temp solution .....once axle back in cup there was enough play in the axle to remove it from the knuckle/hub and put the lower ball joint stud back in teh LCA and attach strut to upper section of knuckle. then I used a piece of wood like a square spindle from a deck to bang with a hand sledge ....walla it was firm enough to not move and enough play in shaft to allow it to back out. There was some rust in there and I had sprayed PB Blaster in there over the course of a day or so...
 

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any step by steps or how to's on changing out an axle in our cars?
Factory service manual. If you can't find a paper copy for your model year from H&A or Helm Inc., you can buy an electronic version (bewared of pirated versions) from a vendor such as Rock Auto.

Also see threads linked in post #6 above.
 

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Honda CRV 2002 - 2006 CV Axle Replacement is very similar to Honda Element CV Axle Replacement.

CV Axle Replacement Video - Passenger Side: Honda CRV 2002 - 2006

CV Axle Replacement Video - Driver's Side: Honda CRV 2002 - 2006
 

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I just completed swapping out the front cv axles on a 04 EX 2WD. Aftermarket axles except for Raxel Axles brand will fail so buy only OEM Honda or Raxel Axles.


I searched for the lowest prices online and went with https://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com which is:

Majestic Honda
Honda Automotive Parts
1300 Eddie Dowling Hwy
Lincoln, RI 02865
800-341-4113


https://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com


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DRIVESHAFT ASSY., L.
Part Number: 44306-SCV-A51
$245.50

DRIVESHAFT ASSY., R.
Part Number: 44305-SCV-A51
$242.19

OIL SEAL (40X56X9) (NOK)
Part Number: 91205-P0X-005
$11.91

Seal, Half Shaft (Outer) (Nok) - Honda
Part Number: 91260-SDB-A01
$7.55

WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (18MM)
Part Number: 90471-PX4-000
$2.18

Fluid(Atf Dw-1)
Part Number: 08200-9008
$7.40



-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Incorrect axle oil seal:

OIL SEAL (35X58X8) (NOK)
Part Number: 91206-PHR-003
 
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