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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is a simple DIY to correct the inset of the E’s fuel filler door.

One of the first things that I noticed when I got my E was that the fuel filler door seemed to be inset considerably, which gave it an uneven, cheap look. So this is my simple solution. Put washers as needed between the plastic fuel filler door and the fuel filler door mounting bracket.

Note: Others might have used this method in the past or thought of the idea long before I even had an E, but I could not find any related posts using the Search feature, so I decided that I would make this DIY.

What you will need:

  • Screw driver
  • #8 (or similar size) flat washers
  • Two hands
Before Image:


Step One, remove one of the fuel filler door mounting screws, and loosen the other three.


Step Two, put the estimated amount of washers in, and reinstall screw.


Step Three, repeat the second step on the three other mounting screws.

Step Four, close the fuel filler door and check alignment. If satisfactory skip to step six. If unsatisfactory, continue to step five.

Step Five, make alignment adjustments by adding or removing washers for each individual mounting screws.

Step Six, tighten all of the mounting screws, and you are done.
 

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I had the same problem where the filler door was sunken in. I believe the problem as seen in your picture is that, there is supposedly a filler door pad. I thought mine just came off when I noticed it the first time. I hate it when I fill it up with gas and flip the filler door back and you hear metal to metal irritating sound before the fix. So I just went to the junk yard and look for 94 and up honda accord and took the gas filler door dumper pads and put it on mine. Junk yard did not even charge me for it. See the rubber pad below in the picture. Now I can just slam the filler door without causing any irritation and is 400 times quieter. BTW, when I notice mine the first time, I immediately went to our local honda dealer and check the E's gas filler door. Sure enough, there was the filler door pad. Ask the dealer for the price of the filler door pads and he quoted me $9 :vomit001: for just 2 of those tiny stuff.

If this is a pattern in previous E models, honda has to be ashame. Anyway, my advice is for all of you who own's an E is to check your filler doors if it has a bumper pad. Let us know if previous E models have this problem.
 

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Thanks for the tip! That fuel door has irritated me since I bought my E 5 years ago!
 

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Yes, I noticed that my pad was splitting some time ago and has finally fallen off. I plan to get replacements at some point soon. The metal on metal is very annoying.
 

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Stick 'em!

TIP: squirt a little dab of Gorilla Glue (or adhesive of your choice) into the rubber pads before you put them on - that will keep them secure as they do pop off from time to time. My girlfriend lost both of hers so I glued her replacements and mine as well and all are still present and accounted for.
 

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2008 Element EX AWD TRP
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When the little rubber pads fall off my filler door I replace them with pieces of rubber hose.
 

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What irritates me is why the Element does not have a locking door like every other Honda in the world, even my cheap model 2000 Civic had the locking door that you pulled the lever to open from the inside...
 

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What irritates me is why the Element does not have a locking door like every other Honda in the world, even my cheap model 2000 Civic had the locking door that you pulled the lever to open from the inside...
They do (unfortunately) in JAPAN!!! Crazy I know... Love your Avatar!!! I'm waiting for Chief (Darth Raider) to do that mod on his E... I heard it was on his project list...

LBD
 

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Noticed that the day I got the E.
Sticky backed rubber feet from an electronics shop or hardware store.
$0.99 for a sheet of them (or free in my junk drawers).
Done before its first night.
 

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2008 Element EX AWD TRP
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Spring replacement

As I was filling my Element with gas, the spring for the fuel fill door fell off.

For the life of me I can't see how it's supposed to be installed, and the service manual doesn't show it. Does anyone have a photo or line detail of its placement?
 

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I'll be glad to get you a picture of this tonight, unless someone beats me to it. It's that day job thing that keeps me from doing it right now:roll:
 

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I'll be glad to get you a picture of this tonight, unless someone beats me to it. It's that day job thing that keeps me from doing it right now:roll:
I appreciate it. I don't begrudge anyone who has a job going to work.

I couldn't see where the spring mounted, even after unbolting the entire unit from the body. Don't know if there's a piece missing. All I have looks like a "(" with a reverse hook bent at each end.

If you can't get to it today, it's not a problem. It appears that one of the pivot rod welds broke, and it'll take a day or so for me to get it tacked or epoxied.
 

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They do (unfortunately) in JAPAN!!! Crazy I know... Love your Avatar!!! I'm waiting for Chief (Darth Raider) to do that mod on his E... I heard it was on his project list...

LBD
OK so the Avatar in question is Push Button, Receive Bacon. And Chief is going to do this mod? Schweeeeeeeet!!!!! :-D
 

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I'll be glad to get you a picture of this tonight, unless someone beats me to it. It's that day job thing that keeps me from doing it right now:roll:
Thanks for your offer, but I found a photo in another thread. http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=833798&postcount=16

Ramblerdan had the same part failure. For all the weighty metal involved in this door bracket, the actual hinge pin is very flimsy, the process of pinch welding the end to the bracket causes the metal to become brittle.

I'm going to see if I can use epoxy to hold the pin in place.
 

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Sorry I wasn't faster. If you found something with Rambler Dan, it's probably your best bet, he's no slouch. Sorry that the pin/spring gave way, nothin' worse than a floppy gas cap cover.
 

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After taking a close look at the broken pin, I decided to splint both ends. An hour of my time is less expensive than $40-50 for a replacement door, and with another having the same original design flaw.

Not having access to a welding rig, I was limited using materials I had on hand.

I drilled two holes at each end of the bracket, cleaned the area around the welds of paint and used 1/8" copper coated welding rod as a bridge over each end of the hinge pin. I covered the rod and the exposed metal with multi-metal epoxy.

It looks a little rough, but the repair will be completely concealed when remounted. I'm just waiting for the epoxy to completely cure before remounting the door. I'll post photos after I'm done.
 

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Photos of the repair are here: http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=874263

In remounting the door I found that most of the misalignment with the surface of the fender was corrected by replacing the @!#$^&!! feet that keep falling off.

This time I used two short lengths of orange nylon vacuum line as replacement feet. The ID is smaller than the width of the prongs, so hopefully the tension of the nylon trying to regain its round shape will help keep it in position.
 

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Just noticed the other day that my rubber snubbers also were missing.
Closed the door with a grating metal to metal clack.

Was going to go with snippits of rubber vacuum hose but noticed a leftover
piece of 1/4" thick very dense felt weather strip. Cut off 2 small pieces, peeled off the "peel n stick" backing and stuck it onto the small flat "landings"
areas. So far so good.
 

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Yes, and using the body instead of the door gives you a larger surface to which to stick and spread the impact.

The clear silicone door/drawer bumpers they sell in sheets at the dollar store also work, and look prettier. They come in different sizes/thicknesses and in flat sheets.

If you use a dab of silicone adhesive with any of these bumper replacements they stick better.
 
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