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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

I'm an avid cyclist and that was one of my biggest reasons for buying an E. After reading extensively what other people had done, I decided it was time to DIY and build my own. The whole project cost $18 and took about an hour. There were two changes/improvements that I wanted to make which is why I am posting this - and also for those who prefer step by step.

Change 1- I didn't like that the bottom of the wood had no traction against the bottom. I decided to solve this with a $2 floor mat that I attached to the bottom. The rubber is tacky enough to keep it from sliding and also protects the finish of the car where the mount contacts the side walls

Change 2- I didn't like that some designs wouldn't stay still in a sudden stop. While my mountain bike might weigh enough to hold that piece of wood down, the road bike's inherent lightness would allow it to become a projectile if I had to slam my brakes hard. To solve this I added two eyelets with carabiners that I can attach to the side 'rails' of the junk bins (see pic).

Supplies:
- 42.5" piece of lumber. I used weather treated lumber and painted it black. (Note: 42.5" is just a hair narrow for the width of the trunk, but it with the rubber on the sides it creates a firm fit)

- 1 bike mount (Performance Bike)

- 1 thin rubber floor mat. (Advanced Auto Parts)

- 2 SS eyelets (Home Depot)

- 2 Carabiners

- Screws/ Glue/ Staples, etc (to attach the rubber mat to the bottom of the wood)

Cost:
$9.99 Bike Mount (on sale when I purchased it)
$1.19 x2 Carabiners
$1.48 SS Eyelets
$2.09 Rubber Floor Mat
$2.49 Lumber
$17.50 Total!



The supplies









Cut the rubber mat into strips that are the width of the wood. I had more than enough rubber from one mat.



I used gorilla glue and some screws to finish the bottom off



Bike Mount installed



Eyelets with Carabiners that allow me to secure the mount to the car



Fully installed and ready to rock! I just realized that when I snapped the shot I hadn't yet attached the carabiners to the rails on the side, but you can see in the pic how it'll attach!

-K
 

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Wow!! super... i like it. Good work
 

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I did a similar version that works well

Had I set mine as far back as you did I don't think my bikes would fit. (my seat is all the way back and I ride a size large mtb) I just nibbled at the ends of the board with a jig-saw until it fit perfectly. Then I sprayed it with rubberized undercoating.

I also turned the mounts a few degrees so the handlebars would clear each other.



 

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Discussion Starter #4
My mountain and road bike both fit- no problems. That being said, I am riding small women's frames. I studied your design when making mine, but my concern was with the drop bars on my road bike fitting inside once I took the front tire off... I thought it might be too far forward and hit the truck doors.

What kind of spray on stuff did you use? I tried to figure something out that would be easier then attaching a rubber floor mat to mine, although that proved to be surprisingly easy.
 

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I could use a way to mount the bike with the front wheel on... seeing as I have neither skewers nor hollow axles.
 

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Bike tie down

Hi Folks,

I tie my bikes down with the wheels on. I have one rear seat removed and one flipped up against the wall. I tie the bikes down against the tailgate with motorcycle style tie-downs to the rear tie down points.

Bikes face the tailgate. I use a piece of rubber mesh, normally used to keep tools in place in a tool box, between the front bike tire and the tailgate to prevent the tire from moving around (and to keep the bicycle tire studs from eating the Element in the winter).

Just snug it down, don't moose it, on a suspended bike maybe 1 -1 1/2 inches fork compression.

This works even on my 29er which is 73 inches long but the rear tire must extend between the front seats.

Cost... one set of motorcycle tie-downs (maybe $15) and a bit of rubber mat.

Just pedal...................
 
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