HA!! We have the same amp!
Kenwood KAC-8104D
I am more than impressed with what it has done with my sealed 10" Boston sub. I have heard her setup and although I am not an audiophile, I know what good sounds like, with both subs connected to the amp you can definitely hear the difference.
In other threads, learned people have hooked up amps with as little as 20watts/channel and claimed it made a world of difference with the OEM sub. But to get any sort of real world bass you will need something more than what the OEM offers. I chose to mock her setup because we both use our E's for large deliveries and sometimes need to quickly remove the 10" sub but still want use of the stock sub during those times. The 8140D is perfect for that purpose, both for size and price/performance value.
Loren,
You are the fourth person I know with this amp. It is a really good amp. I have a friend who is powering a 15" Kicker with it. Gboybst578 is powering this OEM sub and a 10". And then, there is you. That makes four. It really serves every purpose you need for now and later if you want to add more. That was why I went with this one.
Forgive my ignorance on this but how do you have both subs hooked up to this amp? I am just curious in what order you have them hooked up and what kind of power is running to the stock sub? Do you have to turn down the power to the stock sub and if so how is that done?
I know that if you want to have a thumping bass you will need to add a second sub or just go with an aftermarket sub but I would like to try the stock sub to fill out the sound first. Since I have not yet got an amp I am open to the idea of getting one good enough to eventually run a second sub if I deem in necessary.
Do you have the amp mounted in the same location above the rear storage spot? Amp location is another big question I have. I do a lot of biking and the back of my E gets lots of dirt and sand. Both of which are bad for electronics so putting an amp on the floor does not seem like a good idea to me.
The amp itself can wire two subs. You can add additional amps and route it all together to get more subs in if you want, but that might be overkill. I have my OEM sub wired to one + and - and the 10" to the other + and -. There is a power and a ground and like three other wires to the head unit. There are also adjustment knobs on the back that you adjust with a flat head. I do not have to turn the bass down for either sub. I have it all set up so that my sound is filled. If I really want to hear the bass, I just turn up the volume and I can get every thing around me to shake. When I originally went to get an amp for the OEM sub, I was looking at just pocket amps to power just the sub. It was not really cost effective, as a good amp would almost double the price of the great quality amp I have now. I wanted to add a sub in the future, but ended up doing that early. Glad I did it. The reason both Gboybst578 and I mounted ours to the rear side lining is because we carry cargo. Although I get hassled for others classifying me as a "tuner," I actually do more than make my ride look sweet and low. I am always moving large heavy cargo, whether it be windows, doors, soil, sofas, etc. Because of this, I need to take my rear seats out and have the entire rear clear. The shop I had it all installed at [Beach Auto in Huntington Beach, CA] suggested that I place it under the rear seat. That makes no sense because I pull the seats out all the time. They also suggested that I place it right behind one of the front seats. I did not go for that either because the amp stood out too much. I have it in the rear so it is subtle, serves its purpose and is out of my way. Also, I have the temporary 10" sub attached via a quick disconnect with a lot of extra slack on the + and - wires so I can drag the sub out to the tailgate or unplug it entirely when I need to. And since the OEM sub is attached to the amp, I still get a good bass going without the 10". I hope that answered your questions. If you have more, just post and I will respond.