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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
help needed:2005 element lx with a EX sub

I just installed a Alpine ida-x001 head unit.I also replaced my speakers with
Infinity 652i's.
Can a subwoofer from a EX element be installed into a Lx?
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
I found one local.
My interior is the lighter grey,The guy says this is very dark grey(almost black).Has anybody tried painting one of these?
 

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Yes the EX sub is a drop in. It replaces the storage bin. You will need a small amp to power it, it is dual voice coil. If you want to paint it you can either use a paint specifically made for plastic, or an auto interior paint, or an adhesion promoter like Bull Dog. Bull Dog is available at Wal-mart and may auto stores like Autozone. You spray on the adhesion promoter first then the paint after. Drew:)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks
Would anyone know what the part number for a grey subwoofer shroud?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks Drew.
I just got the sub today in the mail.
Do you know where the amp for the sub is located in a ex?
 

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Behind the passenger-side kick panel. Since you have an aftermarket stereo, I'd recommend an aftermarket amp. Maybe an Alpine amp to go with the radio...?:D
 

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2008 Element EX AWD TRP
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Heck, I've powered the factory subwoofer with the rear line-level outputs on my Pioneer HU.
That might be OK if you had a subwoofer amplifier connected, otherwise the subwoofer would be running 60 DB lower than the main channels. The thread started with a 2005 LX owner asking about adding an EX subwoofer.
 

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That might be OK if you had a subwoofer amplifier connected, otherwise the subwoofer would be running 60 DB lower than the main channels. The thread started with a 2005 LX owner asking about adding an EX subwoofer.
I was just giving an example of how little power the sub needs to get it going.
 

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I have an LX and I put a sub from an SC in mine. It is powered by an aftermarket amplifier. Sounds better than any other OEM sub with the extra power going to it. Let me know if you have any questions.
 

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what size amp is suggested. I read that the oem sub is 75 RMS should the amp try and match close to that? I was thinking about an amp that is anywhere between 50 to 80 rms at 4 ohms.
 

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what size amp is suggested. I read that the oem sub is 75 RMS should the amp try and match close to that? I was thinking about an amp that is anywhere between 50 to 80 rms at 4 ohms.
It really depends on if you plan to run other subs or equipment to that amplifier. My amp powers the OEM sub and a 10" aftermarket sub. The amp I have has the following specs:
. 1000 Watts of Power with 30% Smaller Chassis Size
. CEA Rated: 300W (1.0% THD+N) (4Ohm/1Ch)
. CEA Rated: 500W (1.0% THD+N) (2Ohm/1Ch)
. Variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz at -24 dB per octave)
. Bass Boost Control (0-18 dB at 40 Hz)
. Subsonic filter (15/25 Hz, 18 dB/octave)
. Fuse rating: 40A x 1
 

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abulevan I have seen your setup before when searching the forum. Very nice! I really don't want to lose any cargo space which is why I am adding an oem sub into my LX. I have replaced the head unit to gain ipod control. Now I want to add a sub to fill out the bass. For now I will just be running the stock OEM sub so I need to get an amp that will do that. The HU that I have has one set of preamp RCA out on it and is set up inside the HU to have a crossover that will either run rear speakers or a sub out of the RCA output. I will set it to run the sub and let the HU run the rest of the door speakers. Right now without the sub it sounds good even without replacing the stock door speakers. But it needs more low end. So I am looking at amps that will run the stock oem sub. I know that I can run that sub with very little power (look at the stock ex amp) but since I am buying an amp specifically to run this sub I want to try and maximize the sound out of the stock sub. I know that I dont need to spend a lot to get an amp that will power the stock sub so I am just trying to get advice on what size amp would be best. Best is the key here. Thanks for eveybodys help. Any suggestions are very welcomed.
 

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It really depends on if you plan to run other subs or equipment to that amplifier. My amp powers the OEM sub and a 10" aftermarket sub. The amp I have has the following specs:
. 1000 Watts of Power with 30% Smaller Chassis Size
. CEA Rated: 300W (1.0% THD+N) (4Ohm/1Ch)
. CEA Rated: 500W (1.0% THD+N) (2Ohm/1Ch)
. Variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz at -24 dB per octave)
. Bass Boost Control (0-18 dB at 40 Hz)
. Subsonic filter (15/25 Hz, 18 dB/octave)
. Fuse rating: 40A x 1
HA!! We have the same amp!
Kenwood KAC-8104D

I am more than impressed with what it has done with my sealed 10" Boston sub. I have heard her setup and although I am not an audiophile, I know what good sounds like, with both subs connected to the amp you can definitely hear the difference.

In other threads, learned people have hooked up amps with as little as 20watts/channel and claimed it made a world of difference with the OEM sub. But to get any sort of real world bass you will need something more than what the OEM offers. I chose to mock her setup because we both use our E's for large deliveries and sometimes need to quickly remove the 10" sub but still want use of the stock sub during those times. The 8140D is perfect for that purpose, both for size and price/performance value.
 

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Forgive my ignorance on this but how do you have both subs hooked up to this amp? I am just curious in what order you have them hooked up and what kind of power is running to the stock sub? Do you have to turn down the power to the stock sub and if so how is that done?

I know that if you want to have a thumping bass you will need to add a second sub or just go with an aftermarket sub but I would like to try the stock sub to fill out the sound first. Since I have not yet got an amp I am open to the idea of getting one good enough to eventually run a second sub if I deem in necessary.

Do you have the amp mounted in the same location above the rear storage spot? Amp location is another big question I have. I do a lot of biking and the back of my E gets lots of dirt and sand. Both of which are bad for electronics so putting an amp on the floor does not seem like a good idea to me.
 

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HA!! We have the same amp!
Kenwood KAC-8104D

I am more than impressed with what it has done with my sealed 10" Boston sub. I have heard her setup and although I am not an audiophile, I know what good sounds like, with both subs connected to the amp you can definitely hear the difference.

In other threads, learned people have hooked up amps with as little as 20watts/channel and claimed it made a world of difference with the OEM sub. But to get any sort of real world bass you will need something more than what the OEM offers. I chose to mock her setup because we both use our E's for large deliveries and sometimes need to quickly remove the 10" sub but still want use of the stock sub during those times. The 8140D is perfect for that purpose, both for size and price/performance value.
Loren,
You are the fourth person I know with this amp. It is a really good amp. I have a friend who is powering a 15" Kicker with it. Gboybst578 is powering this OEM sub and a 10". And then, there is you. That makes four. It really serves every purpose you need for now and later if you want to add more. That was why I went with this one.

Forgive my ignorance on this but how do you have both subs hooked up to this amp? I am just curious in what order you have them hooked up and what kind of power is running to the stock sub? Do you have to turn down the power to the stock sub and if so how is that done?

I know that if you want to have a thumping bass you will need to add a second sub or just go with an aftermarket sub but I would like to try the stock sub to fill out the sound first. Since I have not yet got an amp I am open to the idea of getting one good enough to eventually run a second sub if I deem in necessary.

Do you have the amp mounted in the same location above the rear storage spot? Amp location is another big question I have. I do a lot of biking and the back of my E gets lots of dirt and sand. Both of which are bad for electronics so putting an amp on the floor does not seem like a good idea to me.
The amp itself can wire two subs. You can add additional amps and route it all together to get more subs in if you want, but that might be overkill. I have my OEM sub wired to one + and - and the 10" to the other + and -. There is a power and a ground and like three other wires to the head unit. There are also adjustment knobs on the back that you adjust with a flat head. I do not have to turn the bass down for either sub. I have it all set up so that my sound is filled. If I really want to hear the bass, I just turn up the volume and I can get every thing around me to shake. When I originally went to get an amp for the OEM sub, I was looking at just pocket amps to power just the sub. It was not really cost effective, as a good amp would almost double the price of the great quality amp I have now. I wanted to add a sub in the future, but ended up doing that early. Glad I did it. The reason both Gboybst578 and I mounted ours to the rear side lining is because we carry cargo. Although I get hassled for others classifying me as a "tuner," I actually do more than make my ride look sweet and low. I am always moving large heavy cargo, whether it be windows, doors, soil, sofas, etc. Because of this, I need to take my rear seats out and have the entire rear clear. The shop I had it all installed at [Beach Auto in Huntington Beach, CA] suggested that I place it under the rear seat. That makes no sense because I pull the seats out all the time. They also suggested that I place it right behind one of the front seats. I did not go for that either because the amp stood out too much. I have it in the rear so it is subtle, serves its purpose and is out of my way. Also, I have the temporary 10" sub attached via a quick disconnect with a lot of extra slack on the + and - wires so I can drag the sub out to the tailgate or unplug it entirely when I need to. And since the OEM sub is attached to the amp, I still get a good bass going without the 10". I hope that answered your questions. If you have more, just post and I will respond.
 

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just a couple of questions.

does this mean that the stock sub is handling a 300 watt rms load? I am not very good at all of this and I am trying to lear as much as I can. I looked up the specs on the kenwood amp. It says RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 300 watts x 1 chan.
2 ohms: 500 watts x 1 chan.
Max power output: 1000 watts x 1 chan

I am not sure how this works but from my reading I know that the stock oem sub is a dual voice coil sub and those subs allow a variety of different wiring options info about dual voice coil So am I wrong in assuming that the oem sub when hooked up to this amp is getting around a 300 watt load.

I also read thru mikes mod and the consensus was to use 2 channels for the oem sub. Obviously you can use 1 channel because that is what you have although your main focus is not on the stock oem sub but the afermarket 10" which I assume is perfectly suited for this amp. When you dont have the 10" hooked up are you able to turn up the volume or does the stock sub not handle that very well. I ask because I am considering getting a better amp to run the oem sub that I have already purchased so that I might add a different sub at a later time. I want to hear the stock sub hooked up to a good amp first and then make my decision on where to take it.
 

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does this mean that the stock sub is handling a 300 watt rms load?

When you dont have the 10" hooked up are you able to turn up the volume or does the stock sub not handle that very well.
For the first question, a 300 Watt RMS amplifier can produce that much on average. The actual power is less than that.

For the second question, yes. I turn the volume up and down as much as I want. The stock sub handles it well. I do not use a bass control knob because I have an after market head unit, that controls my sub level already.

Basically, what i am saying is what your amp RMS is is not what comes out constantly. It is what it can handle/produce.
 
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