Help with identifying problem in Rear Control Arm/Knuckle Assembly

1828 Views 22 Replies 13 Participants Last post by lewisrasse, 3 mo ago

elementjc

Discussion Starter · 3 mo ago

Hello, I am new to this forum, any advice is appreciated.

Problem:
2004 Honda Element EX
I have side-to-side vibration at the driver's side at 50mph+
There is slight drifting to the left as well

Recent fixes done:
-new left front axle
-new JDM engine dropped in after head gasket/overheating issue

1) I went to get a wheel balance at Mavis Discount and they told me that I need to get an OEM rear right Knuckle Assembly replacement from the dealer.

2) The dealer quoted me $3k to replace the entire rear right control arm which is really expensive. At the same time, they suggested the engine motor mount be fixed at a fair price, so I went for that fix first in hopes of removing the vibration issue.

Solution:
I am thinking of taking it to another mechanic to look at the rear right control arm/knuckle assembly but I don't want to be quoted more repairs than I need to as I just spent a lot on the engine/axle.

Can anyone kindly tell me which part exactly is broken from the pictures?
Do I just need this adjustable right control arm, or do I need this rear right knuckle instead?
Is it both or something else altogether?

Please advise. Thank you!

JC

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1 - 20 of 23 Posts

srteach

· #2 · 3 mo ago

That rear bushing appears to be worn out. The other side is probably not too far from worn out. Take this to a competent mechanic in your area for a quote. You will probably find a better price than 3K.
Changing this part will require an alignment if you want the tires to last.

Reactions: 1

pihmpdaddi

· #3 · 3 mo ago

Those arms look to be in pretty good shape from a rust perspective. I cannot tell if they are bent in any way from the pics. The bushings don’t look too bad considering it’s a 2004, but they certainly aren’t great. What do any of you other guys say?

I would definitely get a second opinion, and can see no reason why you would have to replace the knuckle assembly if it looks like these arms. But you might need to replace a worn ball joint (which “the book” says requires replacing the whole knuckle). While it’s a pain in the a$$, you can replace just the ball joint.

You should probably also check the bearing wear on each wheel. Those can also be replaced but have to pressed out which isn’t easy.

Also, how many miles?

Reactions: 1

elementjc

Discussion Starter · #4 · 3 mo ago

pihmpdaddi said:
Those arms look to be in pretty good shape from a rust perspective. I cannot tell if they are bent in any way from the pics. The bushings don’t look too bad considering it’s a 2004, but they certainly aren’t great. What do any of you other guys say?

I would definitely get a second opinion, and can see no reason why you would have to replace the knuckle assembly if it looks like these arms. But you might need to replace a worn ball joint (which “the book” says requires replacing the whole knuckle). While it’s a pain in the a$$, you can replace just the ball joint.

You should probably also check the bearing wear on each wheel. Those can also be replaced but have to pressed out which isn’t easy.

Also, how many miles?

Thank you. It has 100,400 miles. I guess I will have them focus on the bushings and upper control arm (?) and not the knuckle assembly like Mavis said.

Fleetw00d

· #5 · 3 mo ago

The left rear lower control arm inner bushing is the one that looks like it is coming apart, the right side looks good in comparison. The bushing can be replaced without necessarily replacing the whole arm; if someone is creative they could potentially do it without removing the control arm from the car. Why do they want to replace the knuckle; bushings worn out there? They can also be replaced. The bearing assembly is not pressed ito the knuckle; it may seem like it when trying to remove it because of rust. At 100,000 miles, I wouldn't expect the bearings to be bad.

pihmpdaddi

· #6 · 3 mo ago

Fleetw00d said:
The bearing assembly is not pressed ito the knuckle;

I thought the bearings were a light press fit when new so there is no play, and of course they stick like a m-f’er once they have a few winters on them. No? New ones just drop right in?

Fleetw00d

· #7 · 3 mo ago

In the front, the bearings are pressed in. In the rear they are not.

Reactions: 1

elementjc

Discussion Starter · #8 · 3 mo ago

Fleetw00d said:
The left rear lower control arm inner bushing is the one that looks like it is coming apart, the right side looks good in comparison. The bushing can be replaced without necessarily replacing the whole arm; if someone is creative they could potentially do it without removing the control arm from the car. Why do they want to replace the knuckle; bushings worn out there? They can also be replaced. The bearing assembly is not pressed ito the knuckle; it may seem like it when trying to remove it because of rust. At 100,000 miles, I wouldn't expect the bearings to be bad.

Thanks, I will try to get a mechanic to replace the bushings starting with the one you noted!

Mavis Discount Tire said that they couldn't balance the wheels until the rear right knuckle was replaced.
I am not sure how it is damaged, it is unclear.

Chop_E

· #9 · 3 mo ago

elementjc said:
Thanks, I will try to get a mechanic to replace the bushings starting with the one you noted!

Mavis Discount Tire said that they couldn't balance the wheels until the rear right knuckle was replaced.
I am not sure how it is damaged, it is unclear.

Worn or damaged suspension should not prevent them from balancing the tires. Alignment is a different story but balance is completely independent of suspension and is actually done with the wheels off the car. Definitely find someone more competent.

Reactions: 1

seagiant

· #10 · 3 mo ago

DCM

· #11 · 3 mo ago

Fleetw00d said:
In the front, the bearings are pressed in. In the rear they are not.

Just to add to this, the rear bearings come as either a LH or RH “module”, which is a bolt-on piece with a wheel bearing pressed into it. If your Element is wandering and it’s from the rear, it’ll be either a wheel bearing or an extremely worn suspension bushing. The parts are pretty cheap online, so if a shop is quoting you 3 grand for a knuckle, ask them to give you a price breakdown and also tell you exactly what they think is wrong with the parts. You should get a gold plated knuckle for that much money lol.

sacandagadave

· #12 · 3 mo ago

It would really help you if you can find a good local, and honest independent Honda shop near your to work on your E, instead of relying on the dealer for work. For 3k, you could probably refresh the entire rear end. From the photos, it looks like most of the bushings need to be replaced, instead of the knuckle. Also, does your E seem to sag and the top of the wheels toe in, when you look at it from behind? If so, and you change out the control arms, you might consider going with a set of adjustable arms, to assist in future alignments. Struts and rear differential mount ( if AWD ) may also need attention. Keep us posted on your findings.

Fleetw00d

· #13 · 3 mo ago

I recently spent about $1100 replacing my entire rear suspension: powder coated cross member and lower control amrs, adjustable upper control arms, new bearings, backing plates, rebuilt calipers, refinished rotors, all new bushings (mostly polyurethane), many new bolts. stripped and painted knuckles, new sway bar links and bushings, new shocks/springs.

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Reactions: 5

DCM

· #14 · 3 mo ago

That’s illegally shiny.

Reactions: 1

Fleetw00d

· #15 · 3 mo ago

KA-ching!

Reactions: 1

seagiant

· #16 · 3 mo ago

Hi,
Well, glad I live in Florida...

So I don't have to see my car rust and rot...

Right before my eyes!

WanderingDuo

· #17 · 3 mo ago

That quoted price is way too high at $3k...closer to Stealership Price.

Where do you live, elementjc? (Region or State, not exact address.)

I ask because if you're someplace rural, or near it, I've found that you get you can get this handled easily at a 4x4 Suspension Place where they do this kind of repair all the time.

It doesn't have to be a Honda Mechanic at all, just someone who understands Suspension Wear & Tear and how to fix it.

If you're in the Western States, I highly recommend Les Schwab Tires for just about anything...including suspension. Elsewhere, just look for 4x4 Shops and give them a call...see what they tell you.

* * *

+1 on Illegally Shiny, Fleetw00d...very nice.

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Reactions: 1

Orphanautos

· #18 · 3 mo ago

At this point I would suggest that whatever you do to one side you do the same on the other as well.

teqkng_8091

· #19 · 3 mo ago

Yes the bushings need to be replaced, use OEM rubber not poly if you want a smoother ride. Yes use a 4X4 shop for that and I would suggest a good adjustable upper control arm to aid in alignment. I have seen heard of a lot of the cheap ones going bad or not allowing attachment of cables to line up, I used NAPA and mine were perfect and a dream to switch out. Just an FYI you can let a 4X4 shop do most of the job. I would recommend getting a lifetime alignment from one of the national chains as these cars may need it often enough to make it a good investment.

Sal R

· #20 · 3 mo ago

Fleetw00d said:
I recently spent about $1100 replacing my entire rear suspension: powder coated cross member and lower control amrs, adjustable upper control arms, new bearings, backing plates, rebuilt calipers, refinished rotors, all new bushings (mostly polyurethane), many new bolts. stripped and painted knuckles, new sway bar links and bushings, new shocks/springs.
View attachment 220358

Awesome. Did you do the work yourself? Bet it rides real nice

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