[CafeRoaster]

Possible toe issue with rear? Dumb but easy to check.

Toe is good on rear.

Here's the alignment readout from when I had it done in June. Camber is off on both. I have adjustable camber arms, but who knows if they used them.

 

[CafeRoaster]

I'm trying to come up with plans for a sleeping platform that I haven't seen done before, either with an Element or something else.

This platform would be able to fold width-ways and length-ways. To store, you would fold it width-ways, then length-ways. Or vise-versa, depending on the orientation I end up landing on. I don't think I'll make it to where I can do either/or whenever I want, as that would require some magic I don't know of.

The general idea is that is could fold up into a smaller platform that takes up either the entire space behind the rear passenger seats, or the length of one side where one of the rear passenger seats would normally go.

I'm having trouble with two things:

• How to make the feet removable.
• How to allow them to stack when folded more than once.

Ideas:

• Folding legs? How to remove entirely?
• Slide pin hinge?

 

[CafeRoaster]

Took Henry Honk to the Oregon Coast this past weekend. Fulfilled a lifelong dream.

Got to drive up onto the beach at Del Rey, and Henry handled it very well! I followed a Jeep in, too closely, and they were going quite slow because they can do that. It was too slow for Henry, and we ended up getting stuck. So I aired down to 15 PSI, turned the steering wheel until I got some traction, and we were on our way.

Probably wouldn't have needed to air down if we'd gone a little faster, but I also don't like going fast in a mixed-use area. Didn't have to use the shovel or traction boards, but I had 'em!

 

[CafeRoaster]

Not much exciting happening with Henry. I just started a new job, which should provide me with a little bit more flexibility to get out there and enjoy my rig. Not as much as many others, but a little bit.

Henry is about to hit 188,000 miles and we're heading into the wet season, so I did some routine maintenance on Henry this weekend, a little ahead of schedule. Oil, oil filter, cabin air filter, and new wiper blades. I also finally fixed the door checker!

I would be remiss if I didn't proclaim my love for Fumoto drain valves every single time I change my oil.

My wonderful assistant, Zelda.

Pretty happy with this filter. This put in at 173,088 miles, and 15,000 miles it's looking really good. Halfway through the recommended change interval. Either this means nothing is making it to the filter because the air system sucks in quite clean air, or the filter is letting everything by it and I won't find out until the engine breaks. Haha!

Powered by fresh hops beer!

The cabin air filters were a whole other story! These were put in 16,000 miles ago, and they look horrendous. Glad that they're working!

Here I'm showing the difference of the mounting pieces on the RainX Endura (installed, top) and Bosch ICON (uninstalled, bottom). Note the low-quality unfinished look of the RainX blades. The mounting mechanism is also way less secure than the ICONs. The ICONs clip in, while the Enduras just slide on (and off). It's worth noting that the Enduras in the 28" and 14" for our Honda Fit do indeed have "locking" mechanisms, were still aren't as good as the ICONs.

I wanted to try the Enduras because they're silicone. I used to run Silblades on all my vehicles, before their build quality started to deteriorate. We'll see how these RainX blades holds up, but I'm not instilled with much confidence so far.

 

[homeeey]

August 8th, 2021:

Just a quick update. Henry Honk has some goodies on the way! Doing a full suspension rebuild and putting some new wheels and tires on, as well as lifting 2 inches.

Here's the parts list:

• Rocky-Road 2” lift kit (GR-2 struts, Dobinsons springs)
• Aerogenics Billet rear control arms
• Aerogenics front and rear camber kit (bolts and arms)
• 4x CV axles
• front & rear sway bar bushings
• front & rear sway bar end-links w/ bushings
• tie rod ends inner and outer
• 235/75/15 Toyo Open Country A/T III
• Mayhem 8303 Voyager (Bronze) 15x7 5x114.3 w/ hub centric rings

I just received my springs, waiting on struts.

You mention in a later post you could have stuck with 16" wheels with the 235/75/XX. Do you still think that after having your setup for a while? Any rubbing, bottoming out?

How much was your total lift?

Thanks,
Mark

 

[CafeRoaster]

I just received my springs, waiting on struts.

You mention in a later post you could have stuck with 16" wheels with the 235/75/XX. Do you still think that after having your setup for a while? Any rubbing, bottoming out?

How much was your total lift?

Thanks,
Mark

Congrats! Did you order the same springs? I would advise a full suspension refresh like I did. Such a smooth ride. I do wish I’d waited for the Flatout Suspension adjustables, but I’m happy with what I have for what I spent.

Net lift height was just over 2 inches in the rear, 1.5 up front.

No, I would not go larger than this tire. They’re a bit wider, and taller by an inch iirc, than the factory size. My driveway is slightly sloped. If I park facing toward the downward slope, and back out, it rubs enough to notice. Same with the steering wheel at full lock - it’ll rub a bit. The wheel well splash guards have rubbing patterns on them.

If I had a larger lift and subframe drop, I would go larger. But I would also do a custom front bumper and wheel wells.

 

[homeeey]

Yes, ordered the same springs from Rocky Road. Thanks for the info.

I guess I don't understand going larger if it requires a subframe drop. Isn't the purpose to create more clearance? Dropping the subframe would seem to negate some of that extra clearance.

 

[CafeRoaster]

I’m by no means a profession off-roader, but I do know that 4x4’s / body-on-frame vehicles still have their large differentials that hang down to contend with.

The most important points to gain clearance are approach, departure, and sides. Most people aren’t driving over a boulder expecting to clear it.

 

[CafeRoaster]

Had to replace Henry's alternator today.

Yesterday, it was below 30ºF and starting up was pretty difficult for Henry. Right as I got to work, the Charge System light illuminated on the dash. Once I got home, I checked the voltage of the battery = 12.08v. Engine on, all accessories off = 11.80v. Strong indicator that it's alternator.

I wanted OEM, but settled for new "Nippon-style" from NAPA, because it was in stock nearby. Part Number NRO 1N9549.

Now, I am someone who doesn't know much about diagnosing and troubleshooting, or mechanics in general, and I don't just know off the top of my head what an alternator replacement job looks like. I'm always watching videos and searching and asking public forums. All that said, I feel like this was an upfront - albeit frustrating at times - job that I think most people could do.

The absolute hardest part is getting the drive belt back onto the power steering pump. I searched high and low, online and offline, for a long 14mm wrench, and Harbor Freight had the longest one (and only one) and it was not long enough. Really wish I'd gotten the serpentine belt tool. Ultimately, I put all of my weight on the wrench (I'm only 142 pounds...), and my palm still hurts like hell even while wearing gloves.

I removed the splash guards on the driver side. I don't think this is necessary. It definitely makes it a bit easier, but if you can reach down from above, you don't need to do this. I now can't get the splash guard lined up with the holes to secure it fully. What's more is that the bottom splash guard also has to come out, and I was only able to get 3 of the 8 clips back in, so it's pretty floppy right now.

The alternator was replaced by a shop when the previous owner had it. That was at 124,000 miles. We're now at 188,950. Let's hope this one lasts longer than that!

So shiny! I went ahead and replaced the belt. Old one didn't show any signs of trouble, but for $40, why not? Plus, the one that was on there was not Bando, so it would have gone sooner than I'd prefer.

Here's the routing from the service manual.

These clips are the hardest things to find! Does anyone know where to get new ones that actually fit? I've purchased some on three separate occasions and neither have fit.

 

[CafeRoaster]

Brought home my new rooftop tent today! Can't wait to install! Just need to acquire Deezy's rack and we'll be good to go!

 

[CafeRoaster]

Hey folks. I had to upgrade from the Element to my dream truck, an FJ Cruiser. The E just couldn't take me everywhere I wanted to go. I'm going to desperately miss how easy these are to work on, all the space inside, and the community. I'll be listing Henry for sale soon.

 

[dc99]

Amazon.com: AUTOKAY 100Pcs Bumper Hood Fender Splash Guard Retainer Clips Fasteners for Honda for Acura : Automotive

Buy AUTOKAY 100Pcs Bumper Hood Fender Splash Guard Retainer Clips Fasteners for Honda for Acura: Clips - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

These have worked good for me

 

[wannahonda]

It's just attached to the plastic. At first, I thought this would be an issue as well, but all of the weight is being supported by the backside of the dead pedal that actually lines up with the curvature of the footwell.

I've used the dead pedal to adjust my position in the seat and haven't had any issues. For there to be issues with how it's held in place, one would have to apply pressure that would push it to the right, which is nearly impossible.

I really like it so far. Unfortunately, it doesn't come out far enough or at a steep enough angle for me to use it as much as I'd like.

Was it difficult to get the plastic trim piece out to drill the holes and attach the dead pedal brackets? Thanks

 

[CafeRoaster]

Was it difficult to get the plastic trim piece out to drill the holes and attach the dead pedal brackets? Thanks

You actually don’t remove anything.You just drill into the plastic with self-tapping screws.

I was wary at first as well but it hasn’t been an issue at all.

 

[wannahonda]

You actually don’t remove anything.You just drill into the plastic with self-tapping screws.

I was wary at first as well but it hasn’t been an issue at all.

Awesome thank you that will make this DIY project easier and faster

You actually don’t remove anything.You just drill into the plastic with self-tapping screws.

I was wary at first as well but it hasn’t been an issue at all.

You actually don’t remove anything.You just drill into the plastic with self-tapping screws.

I was wary at first as well but it hasn’t been an issue at all.

Thank you that will make this DIY project even easier and faster