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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok well here is the problem. I tried turning on my car this morning and it looked like the battery was drained, no problem. I jump started the car, but noticed the check engine light came on. I went over to the local AutoZone for them to read the code and they came up with:

BBECM power control circuit malfunction
Probable cause
BB1.- Open or short circuit condition
BB2.- Failed ECM

Thats exactly what it reads on the printout

I had to turn the car off while they read the code and then it wouldnt start up again. They jump started me but when i turned on my A/C it shut off again.... They had to jump start me again and i didnt touch anything until i came home. Once it was off i tried firing it up but no luck, it doesnt turn over.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I tired searching online for answers and came up with nothing......
 

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Have you pulled your battery and had it load tested yet? I have a problem believing all these problems would occur out of no where unless your battery had a dead cell and was confusing the car by bad voltage. I would start there and if that passes feel free to reply so we can try to help further.
 

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Someone else on here just had this same exact problem. Would run after a jump but any additional load on the system (i.e. using the brakes, radio, lights) would kill it. Replaced the battery and all is good.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The battery had a dead cell, traded it in and problem solved :). Thanks on the help guys....
 

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Crap...

I have the same problem. While driving home from work, at certain points my entire car seemed to "shut off" (all the dash lights came on, meters all zeroed) then come back on in a split second. Happened 3 times while I drove home which was awfully scary.

I ended up at an Autozone to read the code which was also a P0685 like the original poster.

Battery was tested but it came out good. So crap, now what? :-o

The odd thing is that the first leg of the drive (4 miles before I pulled over at a friends house to check it out) was when all three incidents happened (also bumper to bumper traffic) and right after I hit the gas to make a move or lane change and then laid off of the pedal. The last 8 miles (steady and straight 40mph) home including the Autozone trip, the car drove fine. I drove another 2 miles today with heavy acceleration, radio, lights, everything on and it drove fine. So I'm REALLY puzzled.

Is there any other explanation other than battery and power control circuit? Or is it indicative of that circuit going out to have problems come on and off like that?

Other than a short ram intake, this car is stock.

I'll be taking the car in monday either way to get check since the idea of sudden shutdown while driving doesn't seem like too much fun :p

Sadly, when i pulled the battery to check I wiped out the CEL. Hopefully I can just show the honda techs the code printout (doh!)

Any advice would be appreciated! Including how much a new circuit will be (rather be sticker shocked now than later!)
 

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This may sound strange but when you start the car up, shift all the way to 1st gear then back up to drive before taking off and see if the problem happens on trips where you do that. I have seen issues like what you are describing (which is a little different from the above) related the the transmission control unit. Just be sure to run through all gears prior to being in D.

If the electronics die on you and are off for a moment, try shift down to 2nd (if your speed allows it) and see if everything doesn't come back on.

If this is not the case the last hunch I would have would be the electrical portion of your ignition switch may be scorched. It would require a little work to get it out but make sure you see no black scorching on copper. It will be more than evident.
 

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Well, I took it into the dealership this morning. Got a call back. Nothing. They couldn't find a thing. Couldn't replicate the issue.

They did however update my ECM/PCM.

How would I take apart the ignition to look for scorched connections?

This is really starting to confuse me.
 

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You will need to remove the cover on the steering wheel cover (not the wheel itself but the part that covers where your key would be inserted). There will be the obvious mechanical/metal portion (where you key is inserted) and then on the back side you will see a light white and blue / plastic electrical portion which is how the car turns on and off. You will need to remove this and open it to view the copper contacts. If a contact is black....well....that could be a definite issue.

I wish I had pics for you but it's pretty self explanatory once you get in there.
 

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Awesome, thanks! I'll take a peek this weekend. It's been almost a week since my incident and I haven't had a single problem. Very odd.

One quick question. The first split second loss of powered was following a somewhat hard launch (I was rolling then punched the gas and felt the tranny suddenly catch)... The tranny has a knock sensor correct? What happens when that gets tripped? Is that a possibility?

Anyways, will look at the ignition this weekend. Thanks again everyone!
 

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The engine has a knock sensor which determines if the timing of firing is off and kills the firing of a cylinder if it determines damage would occur from igniting at the wrong time (what would be referred to as a backfire). The tranny does not as it is solely to take engine rotation and turn it into forward or rear motion with gears to allow faster speeds.

Typically if a knock sensor triggered a misfire it would illuminate the check engine light with a cylinder in reference.
 
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