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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
But the pedal now doesn't disengage the clutch. It still has "pressure" as I push it down but it obviously is not doing anything. Yikes! Fortunately, after driving all over today it does this while parked in front of my house. That's the good part of this story.

I look under the car but there are no parts lying on the asphalt. I pop the hood and peer over in the general direction of above the clutch and see this:

Hood Light Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive design


At the end of that red arrow I see this

Leg White Automotive tire Bicycle handlebar Hood


which appears to be a broken off piece of a threaded rod. The part above it has fluid but it's not gushing out. I looked high and low in that area to find the other end of a threaded rod that that piece might have come off but couldn't find anything. It's really tight in there and I couldn't get my hand in there to retrieve this part.

Another view of where it's lying

Hood Automotive tire Steering part Motor vehicle Steering wheel


Then I reach under the clutch, back of hand on floor of car and take these pics:

Gas Bumper Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Electrical wiring


I guess I was looking for a busted threaded rod or something to indicate what might have come apart and made that "Pop!" sound

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Automotive wheel system


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Asphalt Automotive exterior


At this point I"m just asking for advice for where to look. Nothing is obvious, it doesn't seem to be a busted clutch, just a busted connecting rod...somewhere hidden. It's tight under the dash around the pedals, it's tight under the hood. At least my E is at home and not 30 miles away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I found this diagram online but couldn't blow it up to readable size. Any ideas?

Font Motor vehicle Auto part Engineering Line art


I can't see how anything popping inside would result in that piece lying in the engine compartment. Maybe that piece has nothing to do with the popping sound I heard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Upon further review, that piece isn't a piece of a threaded rod it's one of the screws (of three) holding that master cylinder together. So two are in there, one is lying as you see in the pics. Maybe it unscrewed itself, maybe it snapped off. I'm calling it the "master cylinder" because that's what Eric The Car Guy called it in a clutch repair video I'm currently watching.
 

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08 Rootbeer Metallic SC
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Just my .02
I think that pop could have been the seal popping on that triangular piece missing the screw. Even though it may not have gushed brake/hydraulic fluid, it may have introduced air into the system, hence the weirdness.
 

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Hello,
Shifter linkage is by cable.... Pull your air filter box to see if the cables are still attached to the clutch/bell housing. It also may be the throw out bearing fork that popped. Or the slave Cylinder at the fork. Good luck.
Sorry, I've only owned my E for a month so, I've just been focused on the complete service... Hopefully, someone with M/T experience on the E will chime in soon with better help...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just my .02
I think that pop could have been the seal popping on that triangular piece missing the screw. Even though it may not have gushed brake/hydraulic fluid, it may have introduced air into the system, hence the weirdness.
I also thought of that. By that third screw not holding the master cylinder shut tight, enough pressure was lost to not be able to disengage the clutch but still enough pressure to bring the pedal back up. I wonder if putting the screw back in, tightening them all down, bleeding the system might be the fix. Of course, I've never done any of that so yet another DIY repair going in blind!

Which begs the question, why would only one screw pop out like that...explosively?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hello,
Shifter linkage is by cable.... Pull your air filter box to see if the cables are still attached to the clutch/bell housing. It also may be the throw out bearing fork that popped. Or the slave Cylinder at the fork. Good luck.
Sorry, I've only owned my E for a month so, I've just been focused on the complete service... Hopefully, someone with M/T experience on the E will chime in soon with better help...
I'm no stranger to searching the internet for guidance and I've tried and tried to find some reference to a shift cable on my E and came up zip. I'll pull the air filter box and look down in there. Is there any way for me to check the "throw out bearing fork" or does it all need to be dismantled to check that.

A complete clutch replacement would seem to be the most PITA thing a guy could do to his E. Plus the towing charge to get it to a shop. At least this didn't happen to me during my next trip to Utah in a few weeks, to the middle of nowhere. Looking on the bright side here :rolleyes:
 

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Hello,
There seems to be an access plate where the motor and trans bell housing join togther for the flywheel and clutch. If, that is so. Then you should be able to see if the clutch fork is in place and working as it should With someone pressing the clutch as you look up in there. Again, sorry on my limited knowledge of the Element, just got mine...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just to try to stay optimistic about this I have my fingers crossed that tightening up all 3 screws on the master cylinder and replacing the original (!) clutch fluid will be all that's needed. Wish me luck.
 

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Just to try to stay optimistic about this I have my fingers crossed that tightening up all 3 screws on the master cylinder and replacing the original (!) clutch fluid will be all that's needed. Wish me luck.
I replaced my 2008 civic master and slave not long ago, which has a similar setup. In looking at the online videos for my fix, that triangular piece looks to be identical to the "delay" valve on the EM2 type master cylinder. Meaning you can't high Rev from 1st to 2nd without grinding gears and losing races lol. Google "2nd gear grind for 8th gen Civics" to understand, and to go down a rabbit hole of info if you like.
I doubt that screw popped out like a cork. I think it just finally worked its way loose. Threads didn't look sheared.
The only thing in the master that might have popped would be the plunger mechanism attached to the pedal rod. Mine was full of nastiness and rust. I ended up taking the whole thing apart to install an EM1 master, but I cannot remember if it was plastic or metal.
I'm hoping as well it just needs the screw tightened and new fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OK, I found a mechanic who does side jobs after he leaves his shop in the evening, lucky me. He replaced the master cylinder. That screw in the pics above was sheared off, that was the "Pop!" I heard. Why it sheared off may forever remain a mystery. Watching him step by step was instructive. Working under the dash to do all the disconnecting of the pedal etc. would have killed my back. He had a pump that created negative pressure that he hooked up to the bleeder valve on the slave (done by feel, he couldn't actually see what he was doing) that bled the old original clutch fluid.

I'll start driving my trusty E tomorrow, nervous as heck, wondering if that truly was a lasting fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
One theory is that there's some binding going on in the original clutch mechanism that raises the pressure inside the hydraulic lines above "normal" to activate the clutch and eventually something had to give. We'll see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well well well. Google's search algorithms finally brought up an older forum thread addressing this exact issue:

 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
And this:


The big difference is that this and the other thread were on the "Problems and Issues" forum, I only searched on the Maintenance forum.
 

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Hello,
Shifter linkage is by cable.... Pull your air filter box to see if the cables are still attached to the clutch/bell housing. It also may be the throw out bearing fork that popped. Or the slave Cylinder at the fork. Good luck.
Sorry, I've only owned my E for a month so, I've just been focused on the complete service... Hopefully, someone with M/T experience on the E will chime in soon with better help...
There is no cable the CMC "clutch master cylinder' is connected directly to the pedal, and by hydraulic line connects to the slave cylinder on the transmission, if the bolt came out, and the seal pooped that is your problem, replace the CMC, and bleed the system
 

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Hello,
toowired, I was talking about the manual shifter setup, not the clutches "hydraulic system".
He said, he still had pressure when pressing the clutch pedal and no gushing fluid loss. It didn't sound like an hydraulic issue...
 

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It has happened to me twice. At around 110k a bolt breaks and I get stranded. On the last clutch MC I replaced the grade 5 with grade 8 Allen screws. Call me in 5 years and I'll tell if that helped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hello,
toowired, I was talking about the manual shifter setup, not the clutches "hydraulic system".
He said, he still had pressure when pressing the clutch pedal and no gushing fluid loss. It didn't sound like an hydraulic issue...
I had pressure the first pedal push after I heard/felt the POP!. And there was enough pressure still in the lines to push it back up. There was fluid around the master cylinder but not a gusher. When my mechanic showed up he had me push the clutch in a few times and the fluid starting coming out bigtime. But I guess any loss of fluid equates to loss of hydraulic pressure left in the lines and finally my pedal did sink down.

I've noticed that it seems to be the same screw that pops on all other threads with this issue.

Pedros popped at 110k, it took till 218k for mine to pop. Hopefully for the last time.
 
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