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TL;DR
Right after a battery swap on my 2006 Element, the idle went wonky and I got a p507 code. I did all of the prescribed troubleshooting for idle issues with no luck. I eventually gave in and took it to a shop. They determined the idle relearn was not completing properly due to crankshaft position sensor relearn not successfully completing first. They cleared (stuff) in the ECU, did idle re-learn once more and all is happy now.

Boring background info
I have a 2006 with 114,000 miles and just spent an inordinate amount of time trying to track down the source of a P0507 that started immediately after replacing the battery. The idle would either remain high (over 1,200 RPM) or surge between 1,000-1,200.

Even though it wasn't likely a mechanical issue (based on the timing of the issue and no other codes being thrown), I went through all the idle-related troubleshooting steps to rule out vacuum leaks, PCV valve, IACV, etc., including doing the idle relearn process a few times. I also drove it around for a while - over 200 miles over multiple trips - hoping it would sort itself out, but to no avail.

I finally gave up and took it to the shop. They spent a couple of hours double-checking my work, repeating the idle relearn process, etc., but the idle continued to surge from 1,000-1,200 RPM after the engine warmed up. After analyzing the data stream they eventually determined that the idle relearn wasn't completing successfully because there was a pending crankshaft position sensor relearn in the system.

They cleared (apparently anything they could in the ECU that I'm not 100% clear on), and did the idle re-learn again. Along the way the crankshaft position sensor relearn apparently completed successfully and this time the idle re-learn 'took.' It's been running smoothly ever since with no idle issues and CEL hasn't come back on.
I figured I'd post this as an FYI because I didn't find anything specifically related to this issue after digging through all the other p0507 & idle-related posts here and on other forums. Hopefully this will help if someone else comes across something similar.

Cheers!
 

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Thought I’d add my experience. It may help someone else avoid the pains I went through. I changed out the starter on my ‘08 SC last month. Cleaned the throttle body while I had things off. After I reassembled and started it again, along came a P1129 code and sometimes a P0507 code. It ran good except for a high idle and a weird surge on decel. Looking back, one thing I had done which may have contributed to my problem was to briefly spin the motor over before having everything hooked back up, just to verify the starter install. Also cleaning the throttle body might not have helped. Might be better to leave it well enough alone. Anyway, I tried a couple of different ways to do an idle relearn and it would never completely work. I would clear the codes and then on the 2nd drive cycle it would throw a code again and go into limp mode. Checked for vacuum leaks and even partially disassembled my work to verify nothing was reinstalled incorrectly. Finally I read (on here somewhere I think) about resetting the throttle position. I went to the dealer and bit the bullet. Honda reset the idle with their computer and I could immediately tell things were different. So far no codes and the idle comes down when it is supposed to.
 

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Thought I’d add my experience. It may help someone else avoid the pains I went through. I changed out the starter on my ‘08 SC last month. Cleaned the throttle body while I had things off. After I reassembled and started it again, along came a P1129 code and sometimes a P0507 code. It ran good except for a high idle and a weird surge on decel. Looking back, one thing I had done which may have contributed to my problem was to briefly spin the motor over before having everything hooked back up, just to verify the starter install. Also cleaning the throttle body might not have helped. Might be better to leave it well enough alone. Anyway, I tried a couple of different ways to do an idle relearn and it would never completely work. I would clear the codes and then on the 2nd drive cycle it would throw a code again and go into limp mode. Checked for vacuum leaks and even partially disassembled my work to verify nothing was reinstalled incorrectly. Finally I read (on here somewhere I think) about resetting the throttle position. I went to the dealer and bit the bullet. Honda reset the idle with their computer and I could immediately tell things were different. So far no codes and the idle comes down when it is supposed to.
What did the dealer charge to do the reset?
 

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06 element 185k

P0507, showed up after dealership tried to fix my cold stall issue (but wouldn't just give me a valve adjustment as I asked, until later). They replaced purge valve and one other valve, then did the valve adjustment. But, once I got it back, after the 2nd drive cycle, the P0507 code showed up. The car drives as smooth as possible once I erase the code but AS SOON as the code returns I notice a difference in driving. The difference is...when I lift my foot off the gas it seems to jerk into a slower movement instead of coasting naturally (like it does when I erase code). It does cold idle at around 1500rpm and lowers to about 900 at warm idle, which seems a little high but I read between 700 and 900 is normal. Is there an idle adjustment screw? I know the dealership really messed eith things trying to figure out cold stall issue prior to doing valve adjustment. Please help, im tired of going to them and getting nowhere.
 

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06 element 185k

P0507, showed up after dealership tried to fix my cold stall issue (but wouldn't just give me a valve adjustment as I asked, until later). They replaced purge valve and one other valve, then did the valve adjustment. But, once I got it back, after the 2nd drive cycle, the P0507 code showed up. The car drives as smooth as possible once I erase the code but AS SOON as the code returns I notice a difference in driving. The difference is...when I lift my foot off the gas it seems to jerk into a slower movement instead of coasting naturally (like it does when I erase code). It does cold idle at around 1500rpm and lowers to about 900 at warm idle, which seems a little high but I read between 700 and 900 is normal. Is there an idle adjustment screw? I know the dealership really messed eith things trying to figure out cold stall issue prior to doing valve adjustment. Please help, im tired of going to them and getting nowhere.
idle should be 650-700rpm. You might consider doing the idle relearn procedure. See: Acura and Honda Idle Relearn Procedure

if you need a mechanic, if I remember correctly, I think in some other thread you had once said you were in western New York. You might want to look up Eric Obrochta at South Main Auto Repair in Avoca, NY. He is an automotive mechanic that posts a lot of videos to YouTube. You could tell him that you would like your Element to become YouTube famous. Since he shows his work online for the whole world to see, he has to be conscientious, good, and fair. He’s a guy that has pride in what he does. Go check out his YouTube “south main auto” to learn about him.
 
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Thank you, I did try this upon getting it back and seeing code the first time. Maybe I messed it up. I'll try again today. So, I run this idle relearn process while the code is on, yes? Then erase the code? Just making sure.
 

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Thank you, I did try this upon getting it back and seeing code the first time. Maybe I messed it up. I'll try again today. So, I run this idle relearn process while the code is on, yes? Then erase the code? Just making sure.
I would clear the code first then do the idle relearn and hopefully the code won't come back. Seems like it's hit or miss weather or not you can do it yourself, or as the original poster had to, take it to honda dealer.
 

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06 element 185k

P0507, showed up after dealership tried to fix my cold stall issue (but wouldn't just give me a valve adjustment as I asked, until later). They replaced purge valve and one other valve, then did the valve adjustment. But, once I got it back, after the 2nd drive cycle, the P0507 code showed up. The car drives as smooth as possible once I erase the code but AS SOON as the code returns I notice a difference in driving. The difference is...when I lift my foot off the gas it seems to jerk into a slower movement instead of coasting naturally (like it does when I erase code). It does cold idle at around 1500rpm and lowers to about 900 at warm idle, which seems a little high but I read between 700 and 900 is normal. Is there an idle adjustment screw? I know the dealership really messed eith things trying to figure out cold stall issue prior to doing valve adjustment. Please help, im tired of going to them and getting nowhere.
If this issue showed up after visiting the dealer, take it back. They could have left a vacuum connection loose. The usual cause for a P0507 is a vacuum leak but there are other possibilities. Your’s sounds a lot like mine when it needed the throttle body reset. A dealer can certainly do it. Other shops can too if they have the right equipment but it would be a good idea to inquire about that beforehand.
 

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I would clear the code first then do the idle relearn and hopefully the code won't come back. Seems like it's hit or miss weather or not you can do it yourself, or as the original poster had to, take it to honda dealer.
I agree. I would clear the code first and disconnect the battery for a few minutes. This should reset the ECM and clear any memory it has of the throttle, then do the idle relearn as the first thing.

As far as I can best gather, the computer reset is the same process, except that the scan tool will clear the ECM memory without the need to unhook the battery, and then it walks you through the process. I would presume most aftermarket bidirectional scan tools would have this function.
 

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I agree. I would clear the code first and disconnect the battery for a few minutes. This should reset the ECM and clear any memory it has of the throttle, then do the idle relearn as the first thing.

As far as I can best gather, the computer reset is the same process, except that the scan tool will clear the ECM memory without the need to unhook the battery, and then it walks you through the process. I would presume most aftermarket bidirectional scan tools would have this function.
Most aftermarket scan tools can definitely clear thw code and memory, but only a select few, including obviously the one at the Honda dealer, can reset the crankshaft position sensor and then the idle reset. In the service manual it does suggest doing the crankshaft position sensor reset, however the instructions for doing so are to just use the HDS, so im not sure there is another way.
 

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Upon reading the manual closer it does actually have a process for resetting the Crankshaft sensor. However it also mentions that clearing codes and reseting with the scan tool does not reset the idle, only clearing the ECM with the Honda DS tool will do that. Maybe this was my issue all along, I assumed pulling the negative battery cable reset the ECM. Perhaps it doesn't?
 

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Most aftermarket scan tools can definitely clear thw code and memory, but only a select few, including obviously the one at the Honda dealer, can reset the crankshaft position sensor and then the idle reset. In the service manual it does suggest doing the crankshaft position sensor reset, however the instructions for doing so are to just use the HDS, so im not sure there is another way.
You will certainly need a higher end scan tool to have ecu reset functionality in your scan tool. If youre in the market for one, you can look for ones that advertise “bidirectional control” and/or “ecu programming/coding”. You can also buy the HDS for yourself if you want, it requires a laptop, Honda compatible VCI (vehicle communication interface) and an Honda internet subscription.
 

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Update: upon closer examination, I noticed the cruise control cable was completely not attached, so I called dealership and spoke directly to the mechanic, he said he forgot they disconnected it because it kept coming out. I see the small circular bracket to hold the peg is broken. Would this cause p0507? Is it a hard fix?
 

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The cruisc control cable was not connected and this is why it was out. The hole where the cable peg goes is broken, would it cause p0507? Is this a hard fix?
 

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The cruisc control cable was not connected and this is why it was out. The hole where the cable peg goes is broken, would it cause p0507? Is this a hard fix?
thats disappointing to see. Search the forum for “element cruise control cable broken” and I think you’ll find that this has occurred to a number of people. Apparently the fix is to replace the throttle body.

as for it causing a p0507 ... i don’t normally associate a broken cruise control cable as a potential source for a vacuum leak.
 
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I was able to take it back to the dealer, the TPS is bad. They said it wouldn't have been anything they did though, I bought a used TB with a 6 month warranty. I noticed the cruise control retainer is also broken in this one, and have been reading its common but the new models have a dofferetainer clip that doesn't break as easily. After reading that you must change the TB to fix sensor i just came across a TPS sold separately. A little confused. Should I try to rig something together to hold the cruise cable, return the TB and ask for one without broken retainer, or try to just purchase a new TPS?
 
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