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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well... the beeping finally got to me so I decided to set off on the journey of disabling the damn sound...

First I took off the steering assembly and almost took off the meter panels in search of the beep when I thought I'd just bypass that and go directly to the source...

Now, we all know that we can disable the sound by simply pushing in the sensor button located on the diver's side suicide door... I was thinking of finding out which wire led to where and installing a switch when I found the 1st solution to the problem... this is the easy one:


Step 1: Locate the sensor


Step 2: Flip up the cap


Step 3: Remove the screw

I think the screw grounds the connection so with the screw removed, the beeper doesn't sound anymore. I always carry a screwdriver in the car anyway, so if a party broke out, I could remove the screw in a minute.


Here's another way that I did:


Step 1: Open the suicide door on the driver's side and pull up the rubber protector, locate the green wire and snip it


Step 2: After snipping the wire, strip the ends and crimp on some 2" wires (I can't remember which kind I used, it was from a spool of leftover wire from other projects).


Step 3: After crimping on the other wires, pass it through the black rubber protector (you need to cut a small hole in it) and solder the ends to a small switch (again, a leftover switch from another project... this was from Radio Shack, a SPDT Mini Switch)


Step 4: Viola, secrure the switch any way you want to and now you can disable the beeping at a moment's notice! (Just remember to turn it back on after the party is over!) (And I know it's not the best looking method, but hey, it works!)

Total time: 10 minutes (well, after I tore apart and put back the steering and meter assemblies)

Hope this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
oh yea, someone mentioned that you could also replace the screw with a plastic screw and you won't ever hear the beep again...

i didn't do it that way since i'd like to have the beeping there... just disabled for awhile while i got my groove on... :wink:
 

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Great job and photos identifying the correct wire.

I keep checking this thread waiting for someone to identify where the wire goes to up front so that I can mount the switch in a more convenient location (console,dash, armrest etc.). I may have to do it myself.

I wish that there was an on line wiring diagram available.
 

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Um...instead of cutting wires, why don't you just turn your key to the 2nd ignition setting. It will beep about 10 times and then stop. That's what I do. :p
 

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ps2gamesonline said:
Um...instead of cutting wires, why don't you just turn your key to the 2nd ignition setting. It will beep about 10 times and then stop. That's what I do. :p
I think someone on another site explained that in the ON (II) position, you'll draw somewhere between 8 - 25 amps from your battery, but in ACC (I), it only draws 5 amps...
 

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I think someone on another site explained that in the ON (II) position, you'll draw somewhere between 8 - 25 amps from your battery, but in ACC (I), it only draws 5 amps...
Hmmm...what is it that's supposedly drawing all this current? I mean, if your headlights and fan/AC are off, what could possibly be eating this much power (that can't be turned off)?
 

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ps2gamesonline said:
Um...instead of cutting wires, why don't you just turn your key to the 2nd ignition setting. It will beep about 10 times and then stop. That's what I do. :p
I think someone on another site explained that in the ON (II) position, you'll draw somewhere between 8 - 25 amps from your battery, but in ACC (I), it only draws 5 amps...
I agree. Power has to be consumed in some way... If we are losing 8-25 amps (or actually any amount) without knowing where it is going... we got us a problem!
 

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Hmmm...what is it that's supposedly drawing all this current? I mean, if your headlights and fan/AC are off, what could possibly be eating this much power (that can't be turned off)?
You're actually running the entire ignition system with the switch in the ON position.
 

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As to what is turned on in position 2: Any subsystem that the car needs for the engine to run. Cause remember, after the engine turns over it rolls back into position 2, there's no position 3. I know that's not technical at all but it makes sense.
 

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i've asked around about leaving in the run position. apparently, yes the ignition system gets juice, as does the starter, and could lead to a burnt out starter....
 

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i've asked around about leaving in the run position. apparently, yes the ignition system gets juice, as does the starter, and could lead to a burnt out starter....
That doesn't make sense. The key is in the same position when the engine is running. If the starter was getting juice from the key being in that position, it would get it all the time you're driving around. Actually, the only time the starter gets electricity is when you've got the key in "Start", which engages the starter solonoid.

However, when the key is in "Run" (the position that doesn't chime), all the rest of the engine ignition system is powered up. It's isn't necessarily bad for the engine, but it does increase the load on the battery.
 

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Folks,

Its quite simple ....... when your key is in position ACC II, your fuel pump, fuel injectors, sensors (O2, Mass air flow, Oil presure..), ECU, etc... are all turned on.

ACC I simply provides power to simple accessories such as radio, radio accessories, and power outlets

I hope this clears things up.

-Nick
 

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I appreciate the research you put forth to locate and isolate how to disable the beep. The photo's were good too! I got out my stethescope and tried to listen under the dash to see where the sound was coming from and I couldn't pin point it at all. I do like the method of just putting a plastic screw in place of the metal one. All I want to do is shut off the beep, keep the door lights working and listen to my sounds in peace. I too may want to place a switch on the dash for on capabilities later but until then the Element gets Unscrewed. [/img]
 

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I am going to leave mine enabled because I am a dope. I locked my keys in my Civic TWICE in one week and I was no where near where my spares would have been practical to get.

What they say about it being almost impossible to break into a Honda. Well, it's true. Took AAA 4 hours the first time, and 3 the second.

I use the passenger side as my entry side when parked anyway.
 

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What happens to the front dome light when you remove the screw. Goes out right?
 

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I've got an even cheaper way of doing this.
take out the screw as he showed us before and get some electrical tape.
push the screw through the tape and insert it back through the hole.
No more beep!!
the tape acts as an insulator.
Oh, bye the way......
Dont leave your keys in the car.
thats what the beep is for
 

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The pictures prove one thing, you are satisfied with a shabby looking job. Get rid of the tape and put a switch on the inside of the rear door and make it a neat looking job, to match the Element.
 

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i've asked around about leaving in the run position. apparently, yes the ignition system gets juice, as does the starter, and could lead to a burnt out starter....
Folks, here's the deal. Once the engine is turned on, it no longer needs to use the battery as much as you would normally use. I've talked to my dad's friend about this. He is a owner of a garage that my dad goes to all the time. He told me that once the engine engaged, it produces its only power. For example, the A/C. Normally with the engine running, the A/C does not need any energy from the battery because the engine provides the energy needed to run it. however, with the key in the on position without the engine running, the A/C gets the power from another source that we all have come to know as the battery. Pretty much what i've been told is that there is a power generator device run by the engine.
 

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I took the screw out, made a paper washer and in it went.
Everything seems to be fine.
No key alarm, but I never lock my keys in........anymore :roll:
 
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