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Immobilizer woes. Pretty much at a loss.
07 Element LX 5 spd
156k
Background:
First time element owner! Bought car last summer with bad top end. Limped home on 3 cylinders and parked. Pulled head and had valve job done (2 burnt valves). Car sat with no battery for 8 months. Recently buttoned up work and tried to fire for first time. Cranks over but will not start. Immobilizer light is solid for 2 seconds and then flashes when key is in on or start position. All other cluster lights are illuminated as normal and fuel gauge responds when key is turned. Immobilizer light goes out when key is turned off or removed.
Troubleshooting to date:
-Tried all 3 keys. (All worked when I bought car.)
-Tried 2 different fully charged batteries (one of which is a 6 month old truck battery). Tested both batteries with battery tester under load. Batteries show 12V at terminals.
-Smacked dash and wiggled harness on back of cluster though it doesn't seem related. All lights and fuel gauge working
-Retraced all connectors and grounds that were removed with head.
-No signs of any mouse nests or moisture related connection failures anywhere in car including under hood, driver side fuse area, steering column or behind glove box. Car is clean.
-Checked under hood no.9 fuse & fuse box no.17 fuse.
-Tested both PGM Main relays 1 & 2.
-Keys re-programmed. Keys are by themselves. No keychains. Thought maybe key programming was lost due to lack of power for so long. Bought CK-100 key programmer (new toy!) and went through programming of keys quite a few times. Even called out locksmith to have them try their equipment.
-Replaced immobilizer unit and reprogrammed keys few more times.

With all the various troubleshooting guides, the common denominator is check for weak battery. I am confident at least one battery is strong as they both show 12V at the battery terminals and test good with battery tester. However, I feel it is worth mentioning that when I connect the CK-100 to the obd2 connector with the key off, it goes through the loading process and the second screen shows battery voltage. It usually only shows between 10-11V. Yet at battery terminals, I show 12V. I'm not sure if there may be a drop somewhere between battery and obd2 connector or if the tool is misreading voltage. Not sure if this could be related but thought I should mention it. I found that the no7 pin (wht/red) and no6 (blk/yel) on the immobilizer receiver connector are the hots. I will test voltage tomorrow as I am no longer at my garage. Also, what is their idea of low battery voltage?

I am at my wits end. So close yet so far. Really want to drive the car. My CRV is on its last legs. HELP!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Update: tested voltage directly to the immobilizer via red/wht and blk/yel and both show 12v. Also removed cluster and checked connections. Still does not seem related.
 

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I think instead of running in circles and trying things at random one would be better off having all systems on the vehicle scanned, especially the instrument cluster, to see what fault codes are present and what the car thinks is wrong. A generic scanner or code reader will not work.
 
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