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Yes! I purchased it for $60 on Craigslist from someone parting out a 2006 tsx. RBB will be stamped on it, I forget where but you’ll see it. The chamber is bigger on the RBB and I think the individual runners are a different length. The gaskets matched up perfectly and were re-useable.

The bigger chamber makes the lower bracket unusable unless modified. It gets in my way when I bleed my clutch so it’s not used.

You will see more midrange power than ever before and compared to the price I paid for the injen intake and catback it’s a no-brainer.
intake was installed 10 years ago, intake manifold was installed 6 years ago and the exhaust is a year old.

The exhaust sounds wimpy with some unwanted drone compared to the custom exhausts on my s2k and TL type S (which are louder but easier on the ear)
 

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Sorry, your ‘05 and my ‘06 are the same, I mistakingly thought yours was an ‘07
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Man, I am so torn on this Injen exhaust. I don't want any drone. I am tempted to just do the RBB manifold mod and the headers and forget the exhaust. Would that be crazy? I have looked back on this forum and a few guys in recent years have got the Injen cat-back system and payed an extra $100 for a stainless steel resonator to welded right after the cat. At that point, what am I really paying $700 for? An Injen muffler I am trying to cancel out with a resonator and then a tail pipe? I will probably end up buy it, I just wish there were better options.
 

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Man, I am so torn on this Injen exhaust. I don't want any drone. I am tempted to just do the RBB manifold mod and the headers and forget the exhaust. Would that be crazy? I have looked back on this forum and a few guys in recent years have got the Injen cat-back system and payed an extra $100 for a stainless steel resonator to welded right after the cat. At that point, what am I really paying $700 for? An Injen muffler I am trying to cancel out with a resonator and then a tail pipe? I will probably end up buy it, I just wish there were better options.
don't we all. Peter measured the effective diameter of the cat-converter at something like 1.8" at its narrowest, so that's the choke point. opening up the exhaust past that point may not increase the flow very much, but it will make more noise. I have the Yonaka cat back and it drones annoyingly at 3K rpm, but the burble near idle and slowing down on compression almost make it worth it.
 

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Man, I am so torn on this Injen exhaust. I don't want any drone....have got the Injen cat-back system and payed an extra $100 for a stainless steel resonator to welded right after the cat. At that point, what am I really paying $700 for?
Chiming here searching other topics. I bought a complete Injen exhaust with a stainless Flowmax resonator installed as you describe. There is no drone. It was certainly peppier vs. stock, but I can't compare sound/performance without the resonator.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Chiming here searching other topics. I bought a complete Injen exhaust with a stainless Flowmax resonator installed as you describe. There is no drone. It was certainly peppier vs. stock, but I can't compare sound/performance without the resonator.
What flomax (I assume you meant flowmaster:ROFLMAO:) resonator did you use Chuckc? Do you still have the part #? Did you weld it on right after the cat? Ok, back to my original question does anyone here think it would be crazy to to do just the RBB and headers mod alone and additional tuning without catback exhaust?
 

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I think it would be crazy to have a stock cat-back with rbb and tuning !
She can’t breathe!
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
I am thinking RBB manifold AND a header to help with the air coming out. I figure it all has to go through the cat anyways. I am considering doing a straight pipe through the cat and keeping stock exhaust.That way it will look just fine for emissions. Anyone done that before? Then again, I don't want to be a polluter. I bet are cat is so restrictive since the E is a "low emissions vehicle". It's not like they make a high flow cat for our cars. Sigh...

Update: So I just did some research on the DC 4 2 1 shorty header ACH6514 that seems to be the header of choice for our Element after modifying the flange. Tuns out that it produces minimal gains and does not appear to be drastically different than our original header by looking at it. Some people who put it on their RSX mentioned a ticking noise at idle, we are talking a gain of maybe 2hp. Best bet would be a racing header made for for the RSX... but that would require much fabrication and I would have to get rid of the cat and be illegal. Now I'm having second thoughts on this header mod.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
New update on headers options. So I did some more research and found some long tube headers WITH a high flow cat that fit the RSX. So feasibly this should fit the Element also with some modifications, right? What do you all think about this idea paired with the Injen cat back exhaust? Can anyone educate me on the pros and cons of doing a header/exhaust system like this? This would be a big investment requiring some serious fabrication. Some complaints I have read about headers are that they leak, or hit the say bars. Are they supposed to move? I certainly do not want to hear clunking noises when I am shifting gears. Has anyone put headers on their car before? Please chime in and help me understand how headers work and what you all think of this idea. Link to said headers is below.

 

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New update on headers options. So I did some more research and found some long tube headers WITH a high flow cat that fit the RSX. So feasibly this should fit the Element also with some modifications, right? What do you all think about this idea paired with the Injen cat back exhaust? Can anyone educate me on the pros and cons of doing a header/exhaust system like this? This would be a big investment requiring some serious fabrication. Some complaints I have read about headers are that they leak, or hit the say bars. Are they supposed to move? I certainly do not want to hear clunking noises when I am shifting gears. Has anyone put headers on their car before? Please chime in and help me understand how headers work and what you all think of this idea. Link to said headers is below.

:pla-858513787104&abcId=1140476&merchantid=108116232&gclid=Cj0KCQiApaXxBRDNARIsAGFdaB_UrGncZurFqEoa1lTCB4FiVtWMro5188BEYKPwbUi--kSu-NmY5M4aAvdXEALw_wcB[/URL]
It “should” fit the element just fine! You will definitely have a more efficient flowing exhaust system. Another thing to think about would be ECU tuning, typically there are minimal gains from just slapping on a full exhaust/intake combo. The only cons i can think of would be throwing a code and possibly having a check engine light down the line from the O2 sensors inline with the exhaust.

long tube headers are typically tuned for cars that spend a lot of time in higher rpm range. i suppose it depends on the intent you have with the car, if it were me i would look for “shorty” headers for better low-mid range power. There is a company called PLM that makes a variety of “replica” bits for the k series; i wouldnt be surprised if the ebay stuff had some issues further down the line.

overall, id say its a cool idea! Its exciting to see people looking at the element in this light. Find a trustworthy exhaust shop and see if they cant fab you up a better sounding exhaust than the injen, probably run about the same after shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Website for reference; PLM headers

p.s. i am in no way affiliated with this company, strictly for reference
Thanks for the feedback. My tuner can handle ECU changes easy. I was initially going the route of shorty headers but from the reviews I read from RSX owners was that there was barely any gain. Most said they regretted the purchase and wish they had gotten long tube headers. I have also looked of pics of the aftermarket shorty headers and the stock Element headers and they look almost exactly the same. I really would prefer shorty headers because it would be less fabrication and I could keep my cat converter stock, but is it worth it? Can anyone chime in on this?
 

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Thanks for the feedback. My tuner can handle ECU changes easy. I was initially going the route of shorty headers but from the reviews I read from RSX owners was that there was barely any gain. Most said they regretted the purchase and wish they had gotten long tube headers. I have also looked of pics of the aftermarket shorty headers and the stock Element headers and they look almost exactly the same. I really would prefer shorty headers because it would be less fabrication and I could keep my cat converter stock, but is it worth it? Can anyone chime in on this?
rsx owners are probably disappointed in the short tube headers because they have more top end gains, most rsx owners are probably also winding out their engines for that application. Keep in mind the rsx uses a significantly different engine from ours, having smaller displacement and more room to stretch its legs on the top-end (not to mention a real v-tec system) I would ask your tuner for their feedback too. Normally long tube headers have a torque flat spot in low-mid range; having peak torque probably where their vtec engagement point begins. Like i said, if your looking for more hp and torque closer to redline, go for long tubes. I think the shorty headers offer a more usuable performance bump where you would be spending the majority of your driving time.

You could keep your stock cat, but that would be the next bottle neck. If youre in california or a state that requires it for smog, the best bet would be to place the cat back on for smog only, but you would fail visual test based on the aftermarket headers regardless. I guess the question you should ask yourself is what you want from the setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
rsx owners are probably disappointed in the short tube headers because they have more top end gains, most rsx owners are probably also winding out their engines for that application. Keep in mind the rsx uses a significantly different engine from ours, having smaller displacement and more room to stretch its legs on the top-end (not to mention a real v-tec system) I would ask your tuner for their feedback too. Normally long tube headers have a torque flat spot in low-mid range; having peak torque probably where their vtec engagement point begins. Like i said, if your looking for more hp and torque closer to redline, go for long tubes. I think the shorty headers offer a more usuable performance bump where you would be spending the majority of your driving time.

You could keep your stock cat, but that would be the next bottle neck. If youre in california or a state that requires it for smog, the best bet would be to place the cat back on for smog only, but you would fail visual test based on the aftermarket headers regardless. I guess the question you should ask yourself is what you want from the setup.
Thanks for the feedback Hondadaddy, it's helpful.
 

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Ktuner for the element huh? I have one in my 2017 civic and it definitely helped with the powerband on that and still maintained or even improved efficiency.

AWD care to share everything you have done to gain the numbers you gained? I assume throwing a ktuner on a stock element wouldn't gain much especially without it having a turbo.
 

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AWD, I’ve put about 5k miles on the injen catback and am starting to love it. Yeah there’s a 3k rpm drone but it’s not bad. The added performance and little backfired when decelerating make up for the little annoyance.

I would just go for it and get the injen catback
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Ktuner for the element huh? I have one in my 2017 civic and it definitely helped with the power band on that and still maintained or even improved efficiency.

AWD care to share everything you have done to gain the numbers you gained? I assume throwing a ktuner on a stock element wouldn't gain much especially without it having a turbo.
My Element is extremely well maintained with a recent valve adjustment and new spark plugs. Not to mention I have replaced almost every part on the car... but I digress. My E at present only has a K&N Typhoon intake system and the dyno tune utilizing the Ktuner software platform. I credit my tuner and now close friend Jorge Hurtado at H-car dyno for spending almost all day on perfecting my tune for my car. That's why I think I got the gains I did.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
AWD, I’ve put about 5k miles on the injen catback and am starting to love it. Yeah there’s a 3k rpm drone but it’s not bad. The added performance and little backfired when decelerating make up for the little annoyance.

I would just go for it and get the injen catback
Thanks for the feedback E4u2c. I read your amazon review and remain tempted to get the exhaust. But I think my tuner friend Jorge talked me into going a different direction. He said for what I was planning on doing which was RBB manifold swap, DC shorty header, and Injen exhaust. Money for performance wise it would make more sense to invest in a head swap. He says that it is what he has really seen wake up an Element and he could simply re tune my E for me since I now have the ECU modified. So I am torn, am getting married soon and planning on starting a family so I have been a little distracted. Also spent a ton of money recently trying to chase this small engine noise which I believe ultimately was the power steering pump... SMH... I know... I am a little crazy. My fiance sauys with the amount of money I put into my E I might as well get a newer car (I currently own my E so no payments) but... sigh... she of course doesn't understand. I just want to put this out there because this is a performance thread but I almost regret getting the intake + tune because it was like getting bit! It started this process where I was like.. whoah... what else can I do to make it faster? Hmmm... let me obsess at work like I am now and research.....
 

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Well... the back seats are removable. Jokes aside, you cannot swap heads onto an element bottom end (k24a4) without also changing the pistons and con rods. The pistons are domed in a specific way that interferes with the head, or the head sticks down in a way that interferes with the pistons. Take your pick. And you can’t just swap pistons either because the wrist pins are different diameters. Not trying to be a jackass, just tryin to save someone else from a mistake that I can also see myself making. That being said, you can still do more to your engine. You could go Vtec killer with the cams. You already have the engine controller so cams/rockers and tuning would be the price of admission assuming you do your own work. You could also look into a light set of wheels and good tires. Not really fixing the whole “anemic engine” issue, but will totally make the car more fun to drive, and more aesthetically pleasing!
End of the day, you do you. The head swap is totally a feasible option. It just would require the connecting rods and pistons to go along, and maybe some refreshing here and there while the engine is open. Couple good write ups ...somewhere. K20a.org most likely. Will post links if I can find them for posterity. Sorry, THATS a long post ?.
Good luck!
 

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AWD. You have a free and clear auto. That puts you ahead of most people. easier to upgrade and enjoy your ride. You ask about "faster". If you want power you need to go turbo or supercharger. I bought the Hellement from Honda Ghandi and when I got it it was fully built, single V-tech E motor. 461 dyno whp. 428 ft. lbs. torque. I totaled that motor and put in an 04 TSX dual V-tech motor. Did a full build on the new engine, Golden Eagle sleeves, BC rods, CP pistons, BC springs and retainers, 06 TSX cams, RBB Balade intake manifold, 70mm throttle body, Garrett Tc3/4 turbo, 3" turbo back stainless steel exhaust. Running 437 whp for the street at 10# boost. LSD front drive only. Quite fun to drive and a bit of a sleeper for the street. Reused a bunch of parts, bought a lot of new parts, did a lot of the work(except machining) and had a good mechanic to help and advise. For what I spent there is no way you could buy an auto with the same performance and fun factor. Good luck and enjoy your E!
 
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