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I wanted a lock and didn't want to put more than a few bucks into the mod.

in my head i trust manual switches vs electric buttons, but I realize that my battery would have to be completely dead to not actuate that solenoid.

I also didn't feel like putting up $25 for the used switch on ebay.

in the end: its a lever - learned about them in 5th grade. not much different than what everyone else did. Just putting up more options for people looking to do the mod themselves.
 

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I like it! Does it still lock and unlock with the electric button up front?
yes it does. originally the hole I cut in the trim put too much pressure on the cover plate and was causing all sorts of problems (basically the door would only unlock from the inside) but a few shaves with a box cutter and now she is working like a charm.

The thing I do like about this handle is that it provides a lot of room for error in cutting the hole. You get about an inch in every direction before you can see an oversized hole.

Up next the closure strap (which I now completely understand the need for.)

The good news is that I have a bunch of leather laying around from that one time I thought I could construct bags . . . live and learn I guess =) (at least I know how to make smaller, simpler things like coffee cup sleeves and laptop cases)
 

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I like it! Does it still lock and unlock with the electric button up front?
I THINK you are asking me, since I did the electric switch...

Yes, it's just the Passenger Door Lock mod in terms of wiring. You don't want the JDM panel. Slightly time consuming to run wires to front of car, but worth it for perfect functionality and match. You can use quick-disconnect connectors on the lock if you can't find a honda plug. Bonus, the new switch will allow you to lock all doors, even if hatch open. Great for camping.
 

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yes it does. originally the hole I cut in the trim put too much pressure on the cover plate and was causing all sorts of problems (basically the door would only unlock from the inside) but a few shaves with a box cutter and now she is working like a charm.

The thing I do like about this handle is that it provides a lot of room for error in cutting the hole. You get about an inch in every direction before you can see an oversized hole.

Up next the closure strap (which I now completely understand the need for.)

The good news is that I have a bunch of leather laying around from that one time I thought I could construct bags . . . live and learn I guess =) (at least I know how to make smaller, simpler things like coffee cup sleeves and laptop cases)

That's awesome. I like how you did this. I like the thought of a mechanical lock for those night time runs while camping but still can lock and unlock with a key fob while doing normal daily errands.
 

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Anyone that has done this mod with the Lock/Unlock button, can you please post wiring how to?

I can't seem to find this info anywhere?

I'm planning on doing this mod in the next couple weeks, and I'd love to use the factory drivers door handle, with the Lock/Unlock button.
 

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I want to be able to lock/unlock the rear hatch from inside the vehicle.
While car camping, it would be nice to be able to open the rear hatch, get out, and get back in, then lock it up all from inside. without needing to find my keys, or reach up to the front door. (usually piled high with gear, and supplies)

This is my goal.

I also am not intending to do the solenoid method. But the factory handle with lock/unlock button.

It seems fairly straight forward to do the mechanical part, as that's covered in the how to. It's just wiring up the lock/unlock button that i can't find any info on.
Post #56 from RallyRedShon cites a link to - UrsaMinor rear hatch OEM handle & switch with pull down strap, but that goes nowhere. I think this link had the info i want...?
 

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I was wrong. You can't open the liftgate with a DIY interior mechanical release while the doors are locked. My solution to this would be to have my key fob at hand while sleeping in the locked car, but wiring a switch in the liftgate should work.

The method might be similar to the independent front passenger's door lock button discussed here, here, and here. (Many photos are gone. Sorry, can't do anything about that.)

My posts (plus replies) based on a misunderstanding of Stickygreen's objective deleted. Thanks for Eww-an E for the correction.
 

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Thanks for linking me to these posts.

I've actually been considering doing the Passenger side door lock mods as well...

Just found teh right side interior handle with lock cut out available online, for a good price too...?
 

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I was wrong. You can't open the liftgate with a DIY interior mechanical release while the doors are locked. My solution to this would be to have my key fob at hand while sleeping in the locked car, but wiring a switch in the liftgate should work.

The method might be similar to the independent front passenger's door lock button discussed here, here, and here. (Many photos are gone. Sorry, can't do anything about that.)

My posts (plus replies) based on a misunderstanding of Stickygreen's objective deleted. Thanks for Eww-an E for the correction.
You're welcome. :)

I was just thinking, maybe the wiring aspect of stickygreen's mod could be simplified by tapping into the wiring that goes to the rear liftgate lock actuator. I'm not sure if doing this would only control the liftgate, or all of the other doors. I don't really know if my suggestion is doable, but it might be worth looking into.
 

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I'm not sure what all the confusion is. This is SIMPLE. Buy an extra driver side interior handle w/lock, put it in the tailgate. Wire it per the PDL mod. Myself and others have done this as posted above. You can even do this AND the PDL mod. If you want single-click for tailgate, do THAT mod too. I am not providing the links because they have all been provided multiple times above. All you have to do is read the thread. I know it's a long thread and takes time to read, but thats because all the answers are all in there.


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I want to be able to lock/unlock the rear hatch from inside the vehicle.
While car camping, it would be nice to be able to open the rear hatch, get out, and get back in, then lock it up all from inside. without needing to find my keys, or reach up to the front door. (usually piled high with gear, and supplies)

This is my goal.

I also am not intending to do the solenoid method. But the factory handle with lock/unlock button.

It seems fairly straight forward to do the mechanical part, as that's covered in the how to. It's just wiring up the lock/unlock button that i can't find any info on.
Post #56 from RallyRedShon cites a link to - UrsaMinor rear hatch OEM handle & switch with pull down strap, but that goes nowhere. I think this link had the info i want...?
You could always mount a spare key fob near the back area of the vehicle with some velcro or something. It's not ideal, but if you have an aftermarket alarm/autostart, you've got extra factory ones laying around anyway.

The only problem with the alarm is that it would go off if it's armed and you unlock and open the door with the factory fob. Then again, if you're inside the car anyway, just lock the vehicle with the spare remote vs locking and arming with the alarm.
 

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You could always mount a spare key fob near the back area of the vehicle with some velcro or something. It's not ideal, but if you have an aftermarket alarm/autostart, you've got extra factory ones laying around anyway.
This was my minimist approach. A simple mechanical interior release and a spare keyfob attached in back near the release. Worked just fine camping for a couple of weeks. Took the keyfob out when done.
 

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Big thanks Autopilot, as I followed your how too, with slight variations, and am very pleased with the hatch release.

For those wanting the manual release to unlock the hatch as well, we ran a second cable to the lock arm and attached a spring to this section. The spring allows for the lock arm to open and unlock the hatch and then the handle can continue to be pulled (the springs stretches) to open the hatch. We ran both cables together through some guides, to minimize any chance of catching, in as straight a line as possible to the handle where we attached both.

It pulls smoothly and allows you to get out quick even if locked and you don't have the key fob. This does not affect the lock and handle from the outside in their normal operation! Thanks EOC for all the info.



 

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While not as elaborate as some of the other solutions in this thread, my goal was to be able to manually lock/unlock and open the upper portion of the hatch from the inside for as cheap as possible.

For the lock rod, I used some pretty standard parts from inside any 10 year old car that I sourced from an LKQ door at work.


Here's what it looks like with the trim back on.


I had to get a little more creative for the handle portion, but I was able to source most of these parts from another LKQ door at work. I chopped up an interior handle from a newer Odyssey to give me the mounts for the added cable release.




I'm not sure what the T handle is from, I found it in my miscellaneous drawer in my garage while getting drunk.


Total cost involved is zero. Winning!
 

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I did this successfully - I think its post #104 in this thread. There aren't any photos of the locking mechanism but you can feel/see the lever when you actuate the lock. If you have any specific questions feel free to ask. I think that if you get in there and poke around it will all make sense pretty quickly. The door handle I used was form a 1996 Camry. I think I linked the amazon listing in the posts.

I want to be able to lock/unlock the rear hatch from inside the vehicle.
While car camping, it would be nice to be able to open the rear hatch, get out, and get back in, then lock it up all from inside. without needing to find my keys, or reach up to the front door. (usually piled high with gear, and supplies)

This is my goal.

I also am not intending to do the solenoid method. But the factory handle with lock/unlock button.

It seems fairly straight forward to do the mechanical part, as that's covered in the how to. It's just wiring up the lock/unlock button that i can't find any info on.
Post #56 from RallyRedShon cites a link to - UrsaMinor rear hatch OEM handle & switch with pull down strap, but that goes nowhere. I think this link had the info i want...?
 

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my zero cost method of the rear hatch release (if it has not been done before)

material required: select a perfect rope (thats all)

pros: no drilling and no parts and no tools and no money needed.

see the rope tied to where its tied. i double knot it.

see the route the rope takes.

the rope just hangs there.

pull up on rope.

its simple, however, its not for everyone cause it demand all the muscles from your arm.
then again, who the heck could do the door handle mod? not me.

thanks for thread for the inspiration for the rear hatch release.
and give me a shout out if you choose this trick. d.

I'm going to try something simple like this.

I like the idea of being able to get out that way when necessary, but frankly, I don't see why it's so hard to get out the side doors normally. To sleep in back, you generally need the front seats pushed and leaned forward. Which means there's plenty of room to get out behind them without having to climb over them. Mainly using the opening provided by the rear clamshell door.

You *do* have to lean up a little to open the handle, but it's not really a problem. Maybe I have long arms?

So this would just be for when I want to open up the rear for ventilation/viewing, or can't get out the side for some reason.
 

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Don't use a solenoid - use an actuator

First post here! New owner to a 2008 4WD EX. I live in Vancouver, BC. Have slept in the Elephant (my son named it) a couple times and this MOD is a necessity! I wanted a clean look and opted for the Solenoid method. However, the Solenoid Trunk Release kits are kind of expensive, at least in Canada. So I tried buying a solenoid from an electrical components store. It wasn't strong enough! Lots of research later, I determined that an actuator was the better bet. It's cheaper and more powerful. I bought mine for $9.99 from Princess Auto (this store is amazing btw).

Gun

I used a cable given to me from a local bike shop which had the nub at the end that typically goes into hand brakes. This fit perfectly onto the lever that release the hatch.

Auto part Vehicle Automotive exterior Brake Car

I drilled 2 holes and attached the actuator with the screws that came with it.

Vehicle Vehicle door Automotive exterior Trunk Car

To trigger the actuator, I installed a black momentary push button.

Automotive exterior Bumper Vehicle Car Auto part

To power the 12V actuator, I tapped into the overhead light since it was a constant source of power nearby. A few things to note about this power source:
1. There are 2 wires coming into the light switch.
2. One of them, the positive wire, is the hot wire and is always powered
3. The other is the negative wire, but seems to be on a relay.
The effect is that the negative lead breaks the circuit (to the light switch) when the trunk hatch is closed. This means that if you create a circuit for your actuator by using that negative wire as your ground, it won't work when the hatch is closed (I made this mistake). The solution is to ground to the chassis instead.

Wire Electrical wiring Cable Electronics accessory Technology

Run your hot wire through the frame (use a coat hanger to fish it through), then through the rubber hose to the hatch, then through the driver's side of the hatch down to an opening.

Tire Motor vehicle Automotive tire Auto part Vehicle

It's a good idea to place an inline fuse here. I think the actuator draws about 2A, so a 3A or 5A fuse should do. I currently have a 10A fuse because it's all that I had, but I will swap it for 5A soon.

Pedometer Technology Electronic device Clock Digital clock

After the fuse, wire in your button.

Auto part Wire

Then connect one of the button's leads to one of the actuator's leads (for me it was the green wire). The other actuator wire gets grounded to the chassis. I wrapped it on the screw that I used to fasten the actuator (in the picture above, this is NOT shown).

If all goes well, you'll have a working button!

Here is a rough wiring schematic of my circuit.

Text Line Diagram Font Parallel


That's it! Pretty simple when I write about it here, but in all honesty, this mod took me probably 8 hours over 2 days. Mainly because I wasted time mounting a solenoid that didn't work, then wasting more time wiring the circuit with that negative lead - I literally had all the tools put away, put the plastic back on the hatch, and everything working - the button, the actuator, etc (because the hatch was open). Then I went inside to film a video of me pushing the button to get out and... nothing happened! Kind of hilarious in hindsight, but it took me more time to figure out why it wasn't working. But it'll be all worth it the next time I sleep in this thing!
 
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