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So I’ve been dealing with this for about 6 months now. After I completely overhauled my suspension , new wheel bearings in the front, front LCA’s tie rods, front and rear sway bar endlinks & bushings, as well as putting a 4 in aerogenics lift spacer in the front as well as the rear with Megan racing adjustable coilovers well after I put everything back together everything was great for about a month and at the time I hardly ever drove the car because I lived close to my job. After a while the front driver side started making an awful squealing/ grinding noise and I thought well just my luck after doing all that work the caliper is going bad. Before actually changing the hardware I gave it a chance and bled the entire system got the rotors turned got new pads and lubed up my slider pins in case that was the issue. However in a matter of time the noise came back so I said alright I’ll take the opportunity to upgrade and went with the larger TSX rotor package that is a direct bolt fit and upgraded the lines to Stainless steel, well here I am AGAIN and it’s making the noise. When I initially mounted up the new hardware the passenger side had plenty of clearance when the pedal wasn’t depressed. However the driver side did not. Is it possible that whenever I took my spindles to get the new wheel bearings pressed in that one of them isn’t seated all the way in causing the reoccurring issue, I’ve almost started resenting my E now because I can’t drive her much anymore because the noise comes and goes and it bothers the hell out of me.


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You lubed the slider pins but do you put grease on the back of the pads too? Some don't agree with greasing the back of the pad but I always do. Just a thought since you imply the noise seemed to be fixed for a while after the brake job then came back again. Hope you figure it out. Those noises are annoying!
 

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Sigh... I feel your pain. Have endured many weird noises with my E over the years. I think my local mechanic and the mechanics at Russel and Smith Honda here in Houston probably think I am insane because of my many complaints of intermittent noises over the years. I recently replaced my rotor drums and pads in the rear with all OEM parts and sometimes I hear a strange squealing from the rear on a slow roll after a full stop. I had someone disassemble and lube everything up along with replacing the OEM retainer clip spring that helps keep the pad in place (old part was fine) but alas to no avail. I still hear it sometimes. I thought it might be a bad wheel bearing but I have been told that would be more like a roar and would not come and go. This noise is more like a chirp. It sounds eerily similar to yours. I hope one of us can figure this out and report back!
 

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Sigh... I feel your pain. Have endured many weird noises with my E over the years. I think my local mechanic and the mechanics at Russel and Smith Honda here in Houston probably think I am insane because of my many complaints of intermittent noises over the years. I recently replaced my rotor drums and pads in the rear with all OEM parts and sometimes I hear a strange squealing from the rear on a slow roll after a full stop. I had someone disassemble and lube everything up along with replacing the OEM retainer clip spring that helps keep the pad in place (old part was fine) but alas to no avail. I still hear it sometimes. I thought it might be a bad wheel bearing but I have been told that would be more like a roar and would not come and go. This noise is more like a chirp. It sounds eerily similar to yours. I hope one of us can figure this out and report back!
So I’ve been dealing with this for about 6 months now. After I completely overhauled my suspension , new wheel bearings in the front, front LCA’s tie rods, front and rear sway bar endlinks & bushings, as well as putting a 4 in aerogenics lift spacer in the front as well as the rear with Megan racing adjustable coilovers well after I put everything back together everything was great for about a month and at the time I hardly ever drove the car because I lived close to my job. After a while the front driver side started making an awful squealing/ grinding noise and I thought well just my luck after doing all that work the caliper is going bad. Before actually changing the hardware I gave it a chance and bled the entire system got the rotors turned got new pads and lubed up my slider pins in case that was the issue. However in a matter of time the noise came back so I said alright I’ll take the opportunity to upgrade and went with the larger TSX rotor package that is a direct bolt fit and upgraded the lines to Stainless steel, well here I am AGAIN and it’s making the noise. When I initially mounted up the new hardware the passenger side had plenty of clearance when the pedal wasn’t depressed. However the driver side did not. Is it possible that whenever I took my spindles to get the new wheel bearings pressed in that one of them isn’t seated all the way in causing the reoccurring issue, I’ve almost started resenting my E now because I can’t drive her much anymore because the noise comes and goes and it bothers the hell out of me.


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Check rotor contacting back side dirt shield. Rust distorts the shield and rotor contact is common with rear brakes.
 

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Thanks for the tip DJA. I did when I had the rotors replaced, but I will again. I am having a hard time understanding how a rotor could connect with a dirt shield only at random times though. Am I missing something? Does any one have a pic of our dirt shield? I am confused.
 

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Just went through mine, never have rotors ground as they gey thin amd warp and squeel, but i think you said you replaced them, did you, also honda knows they have a design flaw, they put metal sptings to help them open, make sure you still have them as they can be discarded by mechanics. Also your calipers can get a worn spot and not reopen as they should,

Tighten down the wheel berring nuts till they are tight wheel cant move, then losen half turn, it should spin easily, the dust shilelds get bent and with this truck they can get on the rong side of the caliper bracket, run a Philips screw driver around the entire piece their should be clearrance, if not just give it a bend, i had the same issue. I never put grease on them as they get too hot, but you can put on liquid rubber gasket or plastic dip on the back of the pads this will give a bit of sponge to release the pads from the rotors.
 

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Just went through mine, never have rotors ground as they gey thin amd warp and squeel, but i think you said you replaced them, did you, also honda knows they have a design flaw, they put metal sptings to help them open, make sure you still have them as they can be discarded by mechanics. Also your calipers can get a worn spot and not reopen as they should,

Tighten down the wheel berring nuts till they are tight wheel cant move, then losen half turn, it should spin easily, the dust shilelds get bent and with this truck they can get on the rong side of the caliper bracket, run a Philips screw driver around the entire piece their should be clearrance, if not just give it a bend, i had the same issue. I never put grease on them as they get too hot, but you can put on liquid rubber gasket or plastic dip on the back of the pads this will give a bit of sponge to release the pads from the rotors.
Thanks this info is helpful.
 

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MM 2005 EX, AT southwest WI
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Thanks for the tip DJA. I did when I had the rotors replaced, but I will again. I am having a hard time understanding how a rotor could connect with a dirt shield only at random times though. Am I missing something? Does any one have a pic of our dirt shield? I am confused.
Pictures and some solutions here: Unusual wear pattern inside parking brake drum..?? I had the ridges ground off of the last new set of rotors I put on and the set I took off (turned them just a mite and they are a spare set now). The noise starts as a chirp, usually when turning one direction, and gradually progresses to a 'fingernails on chalkboard' squeal. Cleaning up the backing plates helps for a while, removing the ridges for much longer.
 
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