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I'm asking because I'm scheduled for a valve adjustment tomorrow at the local Honda Dealership (BURNS HONDA) hear in Southern NJ for 199.00.My 03 has 121,000 miles on it and runs good.Someone said that a valve adjustment will improve gas mileage is that true?
 

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Valve adjustment is advised after 100K. The "noisy" criterion is only half the issue, that just means one or more have too much play, which might contribute to inefficiency. Too-tight valves (insufficient valve lash) will not be noisy yet are more likely to result in major problems such as a burnt valve, and may also cause MPG issues.

121,000 miles? Get a valve adjustment, basically.
 

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I did mine at 110k and two exhaust valves had no clearance left. They won't make noise if there too tight. Just cause problems..get it done..
 

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When our Element hit about 95,000 miles it started to stall all the time. I adjusted the valves and solved the issue. If I recall they were all too tight. Now we are at 160,000 miles and I will check them again at 200,000.
 

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2007 Element EX TRP
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I've got 58K on mine and will be doing a valve adjustment soon. Have the annoying cold stalling issue periodically. If yours has not been done - DO IT!! IMHO it's great preventative maintenance, even if you don't seem to be having any issues. :shock: :razz: :razz: :)
 

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what is the expected cost of a valve job? I haven't got a clue...
$200. In NJ according to darryl

A valve job and valve adjustment are two totally different animals.

DARRYL was stating the quote given by his dealer for an adjustment. I suspect an independant shop can and will be substantially less.

A valve job can run a thousand plus depending on what is need and what maching needs to be done.
 

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Lizzurd, is there any way to insure the mechanic does the valve adjustment when the engine is cold. I understand if they start it and pull it into the bay from the parking lot, the heat from that brief trip messes up the tolerance measuring.
 

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Lizzurd, is there any way to insure the mechanic does the valve adjustment when the engine is cold. I understand if they start it and pull it into the bay from the parking lot, the heat from that brief trip messes up the tolerance measuring.
Most of the guys i have worked with will pull the valve cover and let it sit in the shop to cool down before they start on the adjustments.
 

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If you try to go 180,000 without a valve adjustment this will happen.

Ask me how i know..


For those not in the know this is a textbook burned exhaust valve caused by the owner/driver/idiot/me not thinking valve adjustment was really needed. When the lash tightens up to 0 the valve cant close and the hot exhaust gasses literally torch the valve. because i never did it on my civics with almost 500k miles of driving them I thought it was bs,well on these k-series motors its absolutely critical.Dont wait, check them often I know I will from now on.
 

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It never stalled but its a manual im sure with an auto it would have been stalling at stop lights , the only real symptom was a rough idle that started about a month ago and quickly progressed into a totally dead cylinder. Even with the dead cylinder at hwy speeds it was hard to tell there was a problem. The e ran suprisingly well on 3cyls.
 

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The Honda dealer in my area quoted a price of $325 plus tax to adjust the valves in my 2006 E with 117,000 miles. Sounds high based on what I am seeing here.
 

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288,000 km and no valve adjustment yet

OK, that photo and discussion scared me a bit. My 4WD 5MT 2004 E has 288,000 km (approximately 180,000 miles) and I have never checked or adjusted the valve clearances.

Valve clearance check/adjustment is recommended at 176,000 km (110,000 miles) in the service manual.

There is no noise, and the engine has never stalled, never had a rough idle or had any trouble starting the first time.

When I hit the recommended maintenance interval, I spoke to several experienced Honda/Acura mechanics, and they all said that when they check the valve clearances, they routinely put the valve cover back on because most of the time, they are in spec, thus their informed opinion regarding the relative lack of necessity of valve clearance checks in the absence of other issues.

In retrospect, I still would have to agree that it's worth doing, because if your car is one of the few that actually needs a valve adjustment and you ignore it, you'll regret it.

I'm waiting for the weather to get warmer before I tackle it. I have all the tools. I'll report on my detailed findings after my valve clearance check, which should be interesting considering I am well beyond the recommended valve clearance check/adjustment maintenance interval.
 

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Just for reference, I asked my mechanic while my E is in for clutch work on the cost of a valve adjustment. He said it would be around $125-130 with parts. Not too bad. I still think I will just do it myself for the fun of it.
 

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When I hit the recommended maintenance interval, I spoke to several experienced Honda/Acura mechanics, and they all said that when they check the valve clearances, they routinely put the valve cover back on because most of the time, they are in spec, thus their informed opinion regarding the relative lack of necessity of valve clearance checks in the absence of other issues.
I have seen several 'very experienced' mechanics pull the valve cover and check the valve adjustment just by feel. They would move the rocker arm up and down and if it didn't feel right to them, then it got the feeler gauge. After doing adjustments for years, most of these guys know when it's right and when it's not.

As for the burned valve, that's what happens when all the clearance goes away. The valve cannot close completely which helps keep it cool. After running like this for awhile, the head of the valve starts to overheat and deteriorate. That's what brings on the skip or poor idle as the leaking cylinder will not make full power. Kurt99 said he never experienced a great loss in power, that's because this is a bit different than losing a spark plug, coil, or an injector. The cylinder is still filling with air and fuel and then getting lit, but the amount of power is about nill because of the lack of compression.
Those who don't ever have the adjustment checked may just be lucky. And then there are those like Kurt who just didn't trade the vehicle in soon enough!
 
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