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Was quoted $127.50 for a valve adjustment on my E from a local reputable tuner shop. Was advised that I may need a new valve cover gasket as well. Is this necessary?
 

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Well. Changing the gasket is the best way to do it. Rubber dries and could break during disassembly. Easier for them, safer for you. You "could" get away without change it but you risk that the engine starts leaking oil. Since you are already paying for the labor, it makes sense to do it.

I did not change mine. :shock: i did the adjustment on a sunday out of an impulse, so I had no gasket handy. I was very careful disassemblying and cleanning it. I look into the engine bay in regular basis and check for leaks. I think I got away with it, but if not, I have a way to look for it and do not intent to pay for labor if I have to do the job again just to change the gasket. It will be just another fun sunday.

If I was paying for the job, By all means, I would be puting a new gasket. A leaky engine is a fire risk.

Btw. At $127, You are getting a decent deal.
 

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Kaoss. . .I had the values on mine adjusted by a local Honda dealer about six months ago. Quoted price was $120 plus "parts" which was the gasket. I had them change it anyway. Total ened up at $140 with the gasket and taxes. You will notice a big difference in performance.
 

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Great thread!

Does any bone know where I can get the valve clearance spec for my 08?

I'm going to do it when mine hits 90K before a summer trip out west.
 

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Made an appointment at a local Honda dealership for $125 labour + $18 for the valve cover gasket! Will let you guys know how it feels once the car is done.
 

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Thanks ramblerdan. I read through it but did not see that the clearances would work for the 07 and onward engines. I did verify through Honda that they were the same.

Im going to do them tonight as well as the plugs and accessory drive belt. Thanks to all the knowledge that all have brought here.

Regards,

Tim
 

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Hey all,
I'm going to be buying an element - private sale - about 500km from here. The owner says that he hasn't had the valve adjustment done - the vehicle has 225000km. Should I take the car to a garage there and have the clearance checked? I'd obviously have to pay for the service, but at that mileage would it be something that could have led to major problems at this point?

Cheers,
Rob
 

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I think that with about 140,000 miles, a valve check would be due, but at the same time, I wouldn't worry too much about rushing to do it before making the 500km drive back home.

I would drive it home, and plan to do it yourself the next time you have a day available.

Although, if the car hasn't been checked out at all, it might be work taking it somewhere local to have it all checked (and maybe do the valve check while you're there) before driving all the way home.
 

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Thanks guys,
I'm definitely going to get it done, but as mentioned, was planning to do it once back home. Just wasn't sure if it would be a deal breaker if it hadn't been done already. I was concerned there might be possible/probable valve damage.

I'm actually going to get the car safety checked and looked over while I'm there. I spoke to the shop on the phone and they were saying that they don't need adjustment unless they're noisy. I wasn't speaking to the tech himself, so I didn't really go into the whole tight exhaust valves don't noise thing, cause I didn't really want to argue on the phone.


Rob
 

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Had 180,000 on 98 Honda CRV. Intermittent misfiring all cylinders. One mechanic replaced spark plugs, distributor cap. Still misfiring. Mechanic put on spark plug wires and new fuel filter. Total $420. Continued misfire. New mechanic said wrong plugs--new plugs $120. Still misfiring. Emission stuff checked. All fine. Still misfiring. Back to mechanic 2--said unusual but could need valve adjustment. Back to mechanic 1. Charged 1.5 hours to remove cover, adj 1 valve. Checked Internet on my own--5 min to figure out should have checked valve first for about $70 instead of $600 and 6 trips to 2 mechanics. Honda Technical Bulletin #03-038.
 

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Great info here, my 04 E with over 200k miles stalls when cold and the CEL is on. Tried all the basic service, Idle control valve, plugs, ignition coils, plugs but still runs the same. Could "out of adjustment" valves still be the culprit?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Great info here, my 04 E with over 200k miles stalls when cold and the CEL is on. Tried all the basic service, Idle control valve, plugs, ignition coils, plugs but still runs the same. Could "out of adjustment" valves still be the culprit?

Thanks in advance!
Owners manual says check at 100K.
 

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Great info here, my 04 E with over 200k miles stalls when cold and the CEL is on. Tried all the basic service, Idle control valve, plugs, ignition coils, plugs but still runs the same. Could "out of adjustment" valves still be the culprit?

Thanks in advance!
Pull the code and report what it says.

Shotgunning it with parts is the most expensive way of solving a problem.

If you have never adjusted your valves, you should do it just for general maintenance purposes. Out of adjustment valves can cause your valves to be held open which will cause them to get burnt. If your problem is caused because you never adjusted the valves and you have no clearance left, good luck. You may have to get your head repaired.
 

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For a stock E, just follow the maintenance schedule. The E can go over 400K with care, no problem. Valves need to be checked and adjusted. Tight exhaust will cause monetary problems.
 
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