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Absolutely get them done. My milage is consistently 27, always. Unless my valves are out of adjustment, then I get 23.
Also, cold starts are tough when valves are tight. Stalling, run rough, etc.
Tight valves can cause major engine problems.
200 bucks is cheap.!.
Sorry it took me 6 years to answer.
 

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27 mpg. That's what I get going down a long, long hill. But someone always sticks twice as many uphills in my way.

Funny note on valve adjust cost. Edmund's has a service schedule for the Element based on mileage. At 110,000 miles they say you need to change oil, rotate tires, change spark plugs and adjust valves - total parts and labor is $101.00. Valve adjustment was $3.50. I'll be looking for the dealer who will do it for that amount when time for my valves need adjusting.
 

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07 2wd 5-speedauto
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I did mine last weekend, 60K on the odo. All the exhaust were tight, .007 so set them to spec. The intakes were all on the loose side. Set those to spec. Does not run any different, maybe a a tad quieter.
Glad I checked them. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.. Good for another 60k. Was also able to re-use the gasket, but had one on hand just in case.

Was able to try the valve adjuster tool from Amazon, works great way easier than regular wrench.

https://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-648827-2-Inch-Valve-Adjustment/dp/B0002Q8TU0/ref=sr_1_1?s=beauty&ie=UTF8&qid=1471701562&sr=8-1&keywords=honda+valve+adjustment+tool
 

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My opinion in case anyone is considering it, it's trickier than you might think on a K series. I've done Honda valve adjustments starting with a B16 years ago, and the angle of the engine and the clearances make adjusting the exhaust side a real pain. Even with angled feelers, it's easy to think you're in straight, but you're not, so you think exhaust side is tighter than it is.

13 years, ~85k miles and the intake side was perfect, exhaust was a little on the tight side but nothing significant. Absolutely no MPG or HP gain.
 

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A valve adjustment won't make it run any better as the two previous posters have said. It just prevents valve damage in the case you wait to long and they get burnt because they get held open. Anyone who states that their engine starts better or they get better MPG doesn't understand how an engine works.
 

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i would take exception to this^.
an early valve adjustment (according to miles) caused our 2006 to run much better and not threaten to stall when coming to a stop.
If your valves were so tight that it was causing your car to stall, you now have burnt valves.

So...how tight were your valves?

How many miles on the car when you had them done?
 

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I just adjusted the valves on my '08 Element EX AWD automatic, which has 51,500 miles on it. Two intake pairs were at the high end of specs (.010"), two intake pairs were tight/below specs (.007"). All exhaust valves were tight/below specs (.008-.009). I adjusted all valves to the upper end of specs (.010" for intakes; .013" for exhausts). Valve seat recession on the exhaust side clearly has happened. Glad I did it now instead of waiting until valves got burned or drivability problems occurred. The engine was quiet before the adjustment, and just as quiet after. It performs the same, but it feels just a little bit more responsive to throttle input, although it's now probably performing as it did when new. Original gaskets were still soft and pliable, with no leaks, so I reused them and left the replacements in their sealed wrappers on the shelf for the next adjustment at 100K.
 

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Ummm... yeah. If there's anything I've learned about the K24 is, if it's not running right the first thing you check is the valves. The 8th one that I bought ran like crap. Compression test was perfect but surged at idle and engine light was on with an intake leak code. Checked the valves and they were done backwards. They were all correct but backwards. Intake was set to exhaust spec and vice versa. Did them correctly, all issued disappeared and haven't had a problem since.

This was worst case but similar situations have happened with at least half of the E's I've bought.
 

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Valve Adjustment 2006 Element

Was quoted $370 for a valve adjustment in Southern NJ. Had it done for $270 in Albany NY and it solved my daily stall when cold issue.
 

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Hi,
I just did a valve adjust and spark plug change on my wifes E at 136,000

Yea, I know should of done them sooner..

ALL of the exhaust valves were tight.

The spark plugs were put in by the OP and were Autolites.

Put in the correct NGK!

With the valve adjust and the NGK's....

The car actually purrrs it is running so smooth!
 

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Yep, valve adjustment is needed every once in awhile. Just did my second adjustment at 220k. Very noticeable if you spend the time and adjust them correctly. My engine was sounding like it was dieseling. Started getting surging sensations too. Adjusted valves and it runs super smooth! Exh valves were all too tight. Some Int valves were loose. Can be done yourself if you are good with tools. Replace valve cover gasket and plugs at same time.
 

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I am considering doing a valve adjustment as all the other solutions to my cold start / rough idle problem have been unsuccessful.

My question is this, can this be done by a small time fix it guy like me. I am not a mechanic by any means but i do try to fix things myself. I was considering doing the valve adjust myself but when i mentioned this to a guy at Autozone he said that this was an extremely complex job that he would not recommend trying otherwise i could ruin the cars engine completely.

So now I'm not so sure, any thoughts?
 

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I am considering doing a valve adjustment as all the other solutions to my cold start / rough idle problem have been unsuccessful.

My question is this, can this be done by a small time fix it guy like me. I am not a mechanic by any means but i do try to fix things myself. I was considering doing the valve adjust myself but when i mentioned this to a guy at Autozone he said that this was an extremely complex job that he would not recommend trying otherwise i could ruin the cars engine completely.

So now I'm not so sure, any thoughts?
It's not very complicated or difficult. There's a great how-to on this site, as well as a how to in the Honda service manual. The keys are to do it when the engine is cold (ie park it the night before and do it the next day before you start or drive it). Also, get the right tools - you really have to have an angled set of feeler gauges such as these:
https://www.amazon.com/d/Dial-Indicators/ABN-Universal-Standard-Measuring-Thickness/B01IPWOAOQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543455283&sr=8-1&keywords=angled+feeler+guages

There's no way you can accurately access each valve with standard feeler gauges. I also have found this valve adjustment tool invaluable for easily and accurately adjusting each valve, especially if you are doing it alone:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002Q8TU0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also highly recommend you get an OEM gasket set for the valve cover - allegedly you can just clean and reuse the old one but I'd prefer to spend a relatively small amount of $$ to know it is new and should not leak. This OEM kit includes the spark plug tube seals and the valve cover bolt seals - again not mandatory you replace these but I'd just as soon know they all are leak free when I'm finished:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CMV8DSQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lastly, you need a tube of Hondabond HT silicone gasket adhesive - it is required for four different spots on the valve cover/head interface where otherwise the gasket itself will likely leak - don't be tempted to use some other gasket stuff - use the Hondabond:
https://www.amazon.com/Hondabond-High-Temp-Silicone-Liquid-Gasket/dp/B006YTTV4W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543455922&sr=8-1&keywords=hondabond+HT

Other than that, no special tools needed to do it - just a 10mm socket wrench to get all the bolts and nuts off and a 19mm socket wrench to turn the crank as you get each cylinder to TDC (top dead center). Here's a great compiled write-up that will save you reading through 9 pages in the valve adjustment thread:
http://www.ataq.qc.ca/hosted/Honda_ELEMENT_Valve_Clearance_Adjustement.pdf

I'd suggest maybe setting aside ~3 hours to do it if its the first time you do it - it really doesn't take that long but you'll want to go slowly and methodically the first time. Ignore the knucklehead from the parts store - it's not that challenging and you'll feel very satisfied when you are finished. If you decide you don't want to take it on, I had it done once at our local Honda dealer when I was in a time pinch and I think it was only about $200, so not a total bank breaker and definitely maintenance you don't want to ignore.

Lastly, if you do take it on, don't hesitate to ask questions before/during the procedure.
 

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dgale:

I cannot tell you how much I appreciate you taking the time to explain this to me, it is exactly what i was looking for. i just needed someone to break it down in easily understood ;language so much appreciated.

Getting back to the issue at hand, after reading your response, I am going to give it a shot. I am going to gather all the tools you recommended and once I have them take a day to to do it slow and methodically and hopefully it all goes well.

I just don't have much else left to try as nothing I've tried to this point has solved my problem of the car not being able to stay running in the cold whether , particularly when you first start the car.

It will start right up at first , then as the idle level starts to come down the car will stall. The when i attempt to re-start the car it turns over for about 20 seconds before starting and then once I get going the check engine will flash on and off and when i check the the error codes , it says "misfire cylinder 2."

I've tried placing the coil packs, replaced the spark plugs, replaced the fuel injectors and now it is on to the valve adjustment in hopes that it will solve the problem!
 

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Yes I'd always start with a valve adjustment if I was having idle problems, or else if it had been a long time since it was done (or I had no idea if/when it was done). Not a bad idea to make notes one what each valve is set to before you adjust them - this will tell you if any of them were excessively tight and help diagnose problems with cylinder 2 etc. This makes the procedure take a bit longer as you have to measure them before, then adjust, but I think the data is worth the extra time. Also, remember to take your time as you measure them (before and after adjustment - the E engine sits at a bit of angle and a few of the cylinders its a bit of a pain to get the feeler gauge in the right spot so it's only riding in the rocker and not pressing on something else that could throw off your measurement. I found having a stool to stand on to reach the exhaust valves made the process easier, just so you can see better back there. Good lighting helps with the exhaust valves as well. When measuring a valve, always check a gauge size above and below once you get it set - ie if you are setting an intake valve with a 0.10" gauge, once its set and it feels right with that gauge (some resistance but you can still slide it in and out), check with the 0.11" and the 0.09" as well to make sure they feel a bit tight and a bit loose respectively.

Also one more thing I should have mentioned when I posted originally, before you remove the valve cover, make sure you clean off around it well - you don't want gunk falling down inside the engine when you remove it. You can clean the engine with some engine cleaner or similar if you are careful of electronics under the hood. Compressed air sprayed around the valve cover isn't a bad idea either.
 
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