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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been trying to get a Silver EX 5-Speed 2WD for a month. Like Blood from a rock. Dealer said that combination is statistically rare coming out of Honda's plants. Apparently 80% of us want 4WD, Auto and black. It's just possible that the car dealer may a tap-dancing piece of #@$&.

But it all worked out, because I all but walked out: They offered me a Silver EX 4WD Auto for only a few hundred more than the 2WD 5-Speed. Some 2000 bucks discount. So I took that after checking with their service department that maintenance was no more expensive than with 2WD, and likewise with my insurance carrier for comp, collision. I prefer an auto for my daily driver anyway.

I am kinda surprised at the first-600-mile no-revving, no-exceed-60-mph, no-cruise-control rules. Apparently it has to get it's lobes adjusted :? (VTEC valve timing cams).

I'll have the dealer install security and keyless. I'll install the big armrest and some cargo nets myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The specific break-in parameters I mentioned were all verbals from the dealer's post-sale hand-off people. You know, the shills that try to sucker you into useless rust and paint treatmets, fabric protectants, etc., so you don't get mad at the salesman for trying to oversell.

She also said that the first oil change was at 7500 miles, when the special "Break-In" formula oil was changed out with it's normal oil. Which leads me to ask if the Auto Trans fluid is also synthetic, or should be.

Obviously, I haven't read my manual yet. I still don't know how to set the clock. The paper floor mats (which bear a perfect drawing of my other car besides the Prelude - a 94 cutlass supreme coupe) are still in place.

If I had to rationalize it, I'd say that keeping the revs low would avoid cruel and unusual abrasion between metal-to-metal mating surfaces while they get better "seated" to one another. After that point, probably, abrasion becomes a constant and the distress factors of heat and elasticity become primary.
 
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