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My E wouldn't start yesterday. I had a buddy come over to jump start it. We jumped it, I drove it for 10 minutes. Went back later to turn it on and it wouldn't start again. Jumped it and drove it around. While driving it home the headlights flickered while braking or idle.

Thoughts? Alternator regulator? Belt? Battery?
 

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battery. once it needs to be jumped it can only be recharged to 75% of its original capacity. get a new one and you will be fine. 85% of the threads on here that are similar to yours end with a new battery and 0 problems. search battery.
 

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battery. once it needs to be jumped it can only be recharged to 75% of its original capacity. get a new one and you will be fine. 85% of the threads on here that are similar to yours end with a new battery and 0 problems. search battery.
Re the 75% capacity remaining after a jump: Is that considered a rule of thumb nowadays? Never heard it before...interesting.
 

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Rule of thumb. Has nothing to do with the jump, has everything to do with taking a lead-acid battery down to 0% SOC (state-of-charge). Running a car battery flat shortens the life considerably due to the formation of hard, non-soluble sulfates on the plates.

Addressing the OP's issue... that it didn't start after being driven for 10 minutes tells me that the battery failed "open". IOW, it appears to be acting like there's no battery there at all, and you were running on the alternator alone. Aside from pure storage, the battery acts as a buffer for the alternator. The flickering you describe during idle would be typical of increasing consumption past the alternator's ability to keep up with the other loads, such as the headlights, at low RPM. You sorta lucked-out that it didn't die completely when you stepped on the brakes because the voltage could have been reduced below the threshold that the ECU could deal with.
 

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we used to teach our students at the installer institute about this very same stuff. the only batteries that are ment to have their charge brought all the way down and be able to be recharge to anywhere near full capicity are the optima type composition batteries. replace the thing with a walmart/johsone controls/sears diehard battery and you will be good as new.
 

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Could it be my serpentine belt. We replaced it about a week and a half ago.
No,

Your battery is junk replace it now before you take out your alternator also which is considerably more expensive, and then you will still need a battery.

Your alternator is making 100% of the juice to run the car without storing any, and you are relying on the jump to start the car. If your belt was loose your alternator would not work correctly and your car would die, not to mention P/S and other items run off the belt. The alternator can run the car for a considerable time before it becomes an issue, but it also stresses it much more then needed, your battery is a reserve for power and it takes time to build it back up. If the battery dead shorts, it coudl overload the alternator and burn out the brushes, the diodes(which is real bad), or voltage regulator.

Make sure that you charge your new battery before you put it in, don't assume that the battery has a fresh charge, it may have been sitting for months.

Chris
 

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and keep in mind the alternator will not run things properly if the battery isnt there or completely dead. I regulates the amount of charge by the voltage is sees as being stable in the battery. if there is no battery present or it is only 11 volts the alternator will be all over the map as far as how it trys to charge and compensate for the voltage irregularity.
 

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We could give you all kind of great oppinions on here but have the system checked out as it could be anything like the battery or a bad battery connection ect ect. I could go on but your symptoms it does sound like the battery or battery connection. If you replace the battery do like one of the last posters said and top off the battery as the alternator could geet hot and possibly take out a diode or more and there is 12 of them suckers in the Es alternator.:)
 
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