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Discussion Starter #21
Second step is to drill out the two "shear bolts" ("bolt, break head," p/n 35102-SV4-003, No. 3 in illustration—see image here) so you can remove the top bracket ("holder, column," 35108-S30-003, No. 5) and free the entire unit from the steering column.

This will leave you with, in addition to the malfunctioning ignition lock you now have, an unlockable steering column. I hope all this is really better for you than having the thing properly repaired.

I'm currently trying to chisel those bolts off, without removing steering column which seems far too daunting. At this point it is my only choice as the full repair and tow is over $1100 and I won't have that much extra to spend for at least a month. (My ex-wife ruined my credit ages ago...) I actually ordered $400 worth of struts for the car the morning this happened. And continuing to rent a car for the rest of said month will just put me further behind.

Anyway, if everyone thinks you have a lockable steering column it probably prevents theft almost as well as actually having one.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Hey,
Thanks to everyone for your help. I only needed to remove one bolt to free the steering column. Car starts easy as pie now and drives fine. Just need to have the key through the black plastic end of ignition when starting. The rest of the ignition is now completely removed.

Thanks again,
Sam
 

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I'd love to be standing by when this person gets pulled over for something and the officer sees that ignition system. Forget that. The vehicle is simply parked somewhere and an officer notices the ignition system.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I'd love to be standing by when this person gets pulled over for something and the officer sees that ignition system. Forget that. The vehicle is simply parked somewhere and an officer notices the ignition system.
Yeah, the steering column will look the same as I'm putting the cover back on, there just wont be any metal behind the key hole. And the registration is in my name so it shouldn't be a problem. I'm almost positive that in New Mexico there is no law saying you have to have a lock to put your ignition key in.
 

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Yeah, the steering column will look the same as I'm putting the cover back on, there just wont be any metal behind the key hole. And the registration is in my name so it shouldn't be a problem. I'm almost positive that in New Mexico there is no law saying you have to have a lock to put your ignition key in.
Yeah, I wouldn't worry about it. I'm glad you found a solution.
 

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Honda Ignition Problems

I am an automotive locksmith technician based in Seattle, Washington. The notion that you can start a Honda with a screwdriver is completely wrong. Since 1998 most Hondas are equipped with an Immobilizer system. This means if it does not recognize a programmed key it will not start the vehicle. If you encounter an issue with your Honda ignition or door locks the best course of action is to contact a locally owned automotive locksmith. We agree that it is significantly cheaper and faster for a qualified locally owned mobile locksmith technician to help you in comparison to a dealership.
Please follow these tips when contacting a locksmith:
1. Make sure you are speaking with a knowledgeable locksmith technician and not a nation-wide dispatch.
Ask the technician the following questions.
2. Are you able to cut a laser cut key on-site?
3. Are you familiar with Honda high security locks?
4. Do you have the required Honda repair kit?
5. Explain your exact issue and ask if he/she can solve it.
 

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Welcome, SeattleLocksmithNinja.

If you read the thread carefully you will see that the OP is still using his factory key, so the immobilizer system is working as designed. The problem was a purely mechanical one, and he has addressed it, though perhaps not in the manner everyone would recommend.
 

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Just yesterday I had this problem. I had gone to the hardware store and after a week of using a sticky key it just failed. The key would go in after a lot of fiddling but it would not turn. Since I was at a hardware store I tried a can of compressed air then some lock ease liquid and of course no go. Then I called my insurance and said "what should I do?" They sent me a locksmith who said he would rebuild the lock right on the spot and I said "do it".
So the damage was $530 with tax and now he says I have a new lock. For me this was way better then screwing around with all the other methods tried.
 

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Actually if I may correct some things said in this thread after just having changed the ignition in my E.

1.) I bought my Ignition Lock from NAPA. And after about 1 hour from delivery I noticed it was just the ignition metal part without the immobilizer. I called NAPA and they said its sold seperately and you can reuse the old immobilizer anyways. You just need a scanner.

2.) You can use the old immobilizer. You HAVE TO BE VERY CAREFUL TO NOT UNPLUG the immobilizer. It clears the memory....atleast it did for me when I unplugged it.

3.) I was able to program my old keys and new keys into the new ignition. Before someone jumps at me for the above sentence, I kept the old ignition installed and I kept the big brown 6 wire ignition cable barely in the lock making me able to switch the cable back and forth to the old and new ignition lock. I kept the immobilizer unscrewed so it would be able to move back and forth as well.

4.) Honda Dealership arent the only people that can program. If you have your hands on a Snapon Scanner it will do the programming. I borrowed one from our competitor shop that brings us business and they happened to have one.
 
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