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Yep i had it fully reassembled, the key wont turn, even though all tumblers are removed.

So i pulled the whole thing off the column today, got the steering lock freed up. But something inside there is still preventing the key from turning.

Is there anything else inside the ignition lock that fails?
 

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Nope ordered a new one today. :( Is there any place that lets you rent the scanner tool to reprogram the new immobilizer and key? Or anyone know about how much a locksmith charges to do that?
 

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Much thanks to this forum for all the great posts and help. I also recently had the sudden door lock cylinder failure, but my E has 192,000 so to be expected (I guess). Rather than messing with the wafers disassembling the old lock cylinder, I found an aftermarket replacement on Ebay for $15 shipped which included the key already cut. Thanks to this forum it was a rather easy job to swap it out and now I am back in business. Yes...I have an extra key now that is only for the drivers side door but not a big deal since 99% of the time I am the only person using the E ;)
So far so good on the replacement lock cylinder from Ebay. Here is a link if anyone wants to go the same route that I did.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151908746814?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
so the driver side door lock is a common issue among all the Es
 

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Discussion Starter #168
You can do either but I wouldn't recommend replacing just the wafers, covered earlier in this thread. Unless you don't care that it'll be a very temporary fix.
 

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that's what I thought. The locksmiths in my area were unsure about being able to get it driving, so it's going to the dealer tomorrow. At least it gave me an excuse to upgrade my AAA .
 

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Prevent, no... delay, yes. There are many opinions out there, mine happens to be good ol WD40. I have 172k mi, no remote entry, all my locks work and my key is not worn at all. I also prefer it because when I'm working on a lock it cleans it very well and makes my job a lot easier. I know they sell graphite as a lock lubricant but every car lock I've ever seen that someone put graphite in has been ruined. I don't really know why, It's just what I've seen. It may have something to do with the quality of the powder. Wikipedia mentions graphite as a lubricant and it says having low-grit or no-grit (ultra high purity) is desirable, that leads me to believe if the quality is not there it will act like sandpaper. I am not willing to take that chance.

In general I see the most problems from cars that live near the ocean, on construction sites and dirt roads. I imagine if I lived up north I would also see problems from the salt on the roads but it doesn't snow here. The key is protecting the metal parts from moisture, corrosives (salt), and contaminates (dirt). Oil based spray lubricants take care of the first two and repetition takes care of the last.

Pierre
Soo stay away from this http://agscompany.com/product/lock-ease-graphite-lubricant-aerosol-3-oz/
and use WD-40 frequently? I have a 2003 that I bought used with67k on it & now have 105k on it & have not done any lubing. BUT after reading this, I'm really concerned, its a matter of time. Should I start lubing?
 

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Discussion Starter #171
Since that post I have switched to tri-flow. I can't prove it but I believe WD-40's formula has changed and not for the better. Tri-flow is out performing it. It's a little pricey but worth every penny. I can not speak for Lock-ease, never used it.
 

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i can add to that from my experience with travelers on catamarans. we avoided WD-40 because it seemed to attract sand/salt particles. the tri-flow didn't attract nearly as much sand/salt and provided a smoother moving traveler.
 

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Discussion Starter #178
Ok. I just wanted to make sure you weren't using the gray valet key. It's not supposed to work the glove or hatch.

The glove lock is really easy to take apart. You wanna see if it's keyed alike?
 
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