Last summer a knock sensor code came up - didn't pass emissions.
2003 E automatic 140k miles.
My mechanic replaced the knock sensor; although, he believed that this wasn't the issue. He said that they rarely go bad. After replacing the sensor the code came back on. The check engine light (knock sensor code) will disappear for many months and then show up for about a one hundred miles and then shut off. My mechanic believes that this is something the dealer has to diagnose - it has something to do with the car's computer needing to be cleared and rebooted or something. I called the dealer. They informed me to bring the car in the next time the light comes on. The challenge is trying to coordinate the light issue with bringing it in...it's now nine months later.
Even if you do "bring it in with the light ON" there is no guarantee of an accurate diagnosis if the actual fault isn't still present when the vehicle is being inspected.
The light only means that a fault hasoccurred.
It doesn't mean that the problem is present the entire time the light is illuminated.
Since your issue is extremely random, odds are not in your favor for a "fixed right the first time" experience, unless the technician advises what turns out to be a lucky guess.
Dan, after having the starter replaced and driving off mechanics lot the service light goes on. I had a buddy check the code to keep the mechanic honest. Does starter replacement have any connection to knock sensor? Also, easy enough to replace myself? Accessible or pia?
No direct connection that I know of, but it's possible that the mechanic knocked the wire off the sensor or otherwise damaged it. I haven't done this so can't say how hard it is to get to.
Check the Knock Sensor
Connector
Currently Applies To: ’06–09 Accord, ’06–09 Civic
Si, ’06–09 CR-V, and ’06–09 Element
Troubleshooting a vehicle with the MIL on and DTC
P0325 (knock sensor circuit malfunction)? Don’t just
rush off and replace the knock sensor. The knock
sensor connector might be the real culprit. Some of
these connectors might not have been properly
plugged in during assembly, which could lead to an
intermittent DTC P0325.
To fix this problem, give the knock sensor connector
a gentle tug. If the connector comes right off, plug it
in and make sure it’s secure. Then clear the DTC,
and retest. If the DTC doesn’t come back, you’re
done. But if it does—or the connector was secure to
begin with—then continue with normal
troubleshooting.
My little "malfunction indicator lamp", shaped like an engine, has been coming on and off intermittently. I bought a new gas cap thinking maybe that would solve the problem, it didn't.
So today I brought it into the Honda dealership and they retrieved the code P0325 - Knock Sensor. The technician also reports "has no signal" when talking about the sensor.
I read on a related post that a faulty knock sensor is very rare. I my case, based on the fact that the knock sensor gives "no signal", positive that I have faulty sensor?
A sensor from Honda in VAncouver is $270 and another hour for labour... So expensive!
I am hoping to DIY this one. Anyone have any experience with it? Is it super hard? I hear its under the intake manifold? Do I have to remove the IM? I replaced my starter and had to remove the manifold so it won't be too hard for me, just time consuming. Is there a chance that I damaged the knock sensor when I changed my starter? Also, is there a chance that the problem is only a loose connection? I guess it could even be a possibility that the Honda tech did not properly check for a loose connection?
Thanks lizzurd for your help. I did see your post you directed me to in my earlier searches. I imagine I may have bumped it when I was changing the starter. I will try the method you mentioned.
How can I test if my knock sensor is working?
Also, the dealer said that if the light comes on and I then replace the sensor, the light will always come on because there was, at one point, a fault. He then said that the only way to reset it is to have a scanner or have a dealer do it for me (they charge 66 bucks to do it.)
We bought a used 2003 Honda Element in pretty good shape.
We bought it in Chicago and drove i to Delmar Delaware, about 900 miles.
We had it checked before we made the trip at a honda shop. It had been sitting in a garage for almost a year so it had the usual problems, fluids etc.
The main issues were the windows, both the mecanics were broken. We had those fixed. We also had the battery and cable replaced and an oil change.
My wife left the shop and about amile down the road the check engine light came on. Not want you want to see before a 14 hour trip.
So she turned around and went back. Code was PO325 - knock sensor.
The mechanic said it wouldn't affect the driving and sent us on our way.
She made the trip without stopping (well she stopped for gas, but no rest). 900 miles, no issues.
The car then sat at our house for 2 months while we got the money together to get it tagged titled etc.
We got our tax money and decided to start getting it fixed. So we took it to the shop.
This isn't a licensed dealer, it's kind of a back woods guy. He is licensed in his own shop but he's not associated with Honda. Jack of all trades type.
All he did was clear the code and sent us on our way. He said "you don't want to replace something unless you are sure its bad, if the code comes back on bring it back"
.5 miles down the road the check engine light came back on, so we took it back and today he replaced the knock sensor.
I get a call and his first words are "you've got a potential nightmare here".
Well.. wtf does that mean?
He says the code is still there after replacing the sensor. He also said that the sensor bracket or sling or something had already been replaced. So #1, the guy who sold us the truck knew about this and didn't tell us. He also said that even though the housing or bracket or w/e was replaced, the knock sensor itself wasn't. So he did that.
He then said he "went online to a forum" (maybe here?!) and saw that this is a typical problem with 2003 Hondas and "even Honda doesn't know what to fix it"
He said it could possible be the ECM or something computer, or a wiring problem in the bracket or something else.
He said it won't affect the vehicle and again, sent us on your way.
I'm not OK with this. On the 1 hand i don't want to go to the dealer and get taken for a ride, but I also don't want a mechanic to tell me he doesn't know how to fix something.
Has anyone else had this problem? Can you help me with some advice?
We are hoping to have this vehicle for a long time, thats why we bought it. We don't want to drive around with a check engine light on. What if something else goes wrong?
About 3 Months ago the Check engine light turned on my 2008 Honda element w/ 106,000 Miles and I recently had it hooked up to the Code reader and the Code for the knock sensor came up by itself, They reset the code and I drove from Miami up to Fort Myers and 3 days after I arrived the Light turned On again and I made the mistake of getting the Knock sensor changed and light turned off and code reset, As soon as I left the Firestone parking lot the Light the light turned on again. I turned around and took it back and when they hooked it up the code for the Knock sensor alone came up AGAIN! They said they already changed it and it could be the wiring or something bigger like a faulty computer, I dont get it because this has been the only code coming up ever
Anybody had this issue and know a possible solution that can narrow down my problem for me??????????
I have an '04 DX that has a faulty knock sensor. No real detriment to engine performance, but my engine light is on and that will make me fail my emissions test (OCM will register it as a fail). I found a DIY for a Civic that says the easiest way to get at it is to remove the rad support cross rail to allow more room to get under the intake manifold. I know it's a different vehicle, but the location appears to be the same. Is this the best way to go or is there better access from underneath? Here is the link to the DIY:
I just changed my knock sensor. Despite what the Youtube videos (which mainly seem to be about the CR-V) say, you cannot access the sensor from above. As per the service manual, you must remove the plastic air dam from the bottom of the car and reach up to the sensor. This is easier said than done. I found getting to the sensor with my big hands a RRPITA.
I suggest that anyone with a high-mileage engine who has to replace their starter (which requires removing the intake manifold) should consider replacing the knock sensor at the same time, even though it costs about $60. There is no better time than when the intake manifold is off to swap out the sensor, and it's the only time you would be able to clean the contact on the connector.
Oh, and after replacing the sensor, I reset the error code three or four times, and it kept coming back on. I was resigned to having the engine light on forever and checking every week or so to make sure a new code hadn't popped up. But after a couple of hours of driving, the light went out. Go figure.
I just changed my knock sensor. Despite the Youtube videos (which mainly seem to be about the CR-V), you cannot access the sensor from above. As per the service manual, you must remove the plastic air dam from the bottom of the car and reach up to the sensor. This is easier said than done. I found getting to the sensor with my big hands a RRPITA.
I suggest that anyone with a high-mileage engine who has to replace their starter (which requires removing the intake manifold) should consider replacing the knock sensor at the same time, even though it costs about $60. There is no better time than when the intake manifold is off to swap out the sensor, and it's the only time you would be able to clean the contact on the connector.
Oh, and after replacing the sensor, I reset the error code three or four times, and it kept coming back on. I was resigned to having the engine light on forever and checking every week or so to make sure a new code hadn't popped up. But after a couple of hours of driving, the light went out. Go figure.
My car was fine until I brought it to the dealer to replace the airbags. When it was in they diagnosed a bad stabilizer bar and repaired it. Now when I make a left turn I hear a bang or knock the engine light is on and the code is knock sensor
Background:
Starter failed. We replaced ourselves. Got the knock sensor P0325 code. Seemed like no one who replaced the sensor actually solved any problems. So, we were going about the trouble shooting on the assumption that the knock sensor itself was fine. As you can clearly see, that assumption was wrong in our case.
I can only assume this damage occurred during the starter replacement, but we have no idea how.
For those who tackled this themselves, what tool technique did you use to replace the sensor, and do you think it will be especially difficult to get the broken piece out of the connector?
My plan of attack is to see if I can get a crescent wrench on it from underneath after dropping the air dam or splash guard. I could also see a strap wrench working. What did you do?
The knock sensor is a bear to get at. I was only able to change mine from underneath the car. Removing the broken part from the connector will be just as challenging. You'll need long arms, small hands, and plenty of patience for both tasks. As a last resort, removing the manifold will give you much better access.
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