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Ztex .... 10 posts in 10 years?? dont know what you put in your first 9 posts, but this one was outstanding!
Honda's rarely break I guess. LOL!

My CE light was on this morning, but went out later in the day. Scanned the codes when I got home and it read a P0325. So, if it persists I will use the tips here to replace.

BTW, my 2004 EX has 208K miles with VERY few issues along the way.
 

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I know people will say this is not the recommended repair, but it worked for me and my light has stayed off for 15K miles now:

I actually did a fuel induction service to clean the pistons and valves. I did NOT clear the code manually, but checked it after every drive longer than 15 minutes. After the fourth trip, the light cleared itself, and has not come back on....
 

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What will solve the Knock Sensor nightmare?

2003 EX
I have seen tons of threads about it, but none really seem to come to any sort of definite answer. I have the dreaded P0325 knock sensor code with my check engine light. Clearing the code only makes it come back right away or a few days later. I have cleaned the connector very thoroughly, and even tested with a new knock sensor (original, not a $10 aftermarket), and i have a fresh battery in there, but this knock sensor has been an issue for about 10 months now, with no solution. I have no other issues (except for a SRS code 21-3 due to switching out my drivers seat, that is being taken care of) but the engine runs fine and does no issues with accelerating or idling.

I want to do whatever I can to solve this nightmare of the knock sensor (besides replacing the engine for whatever reason). I am not the most knowledgable about cars internals, I'm more of a electronics guy, and good with basic mechanics and can take apart pretty much anything, but if there is anything complex i need to do, i would enjoy some pointers (yes i do have the service manual by the way).
Would replacing the Engine Control Module (ECM) solve the issue, if it is constantly a false code and the engine/sensor arent the problem, i'm thinking its either a semi-faulty ECM or some sort of short. if it could be a short, does anyone know what wire would be shorting?

I know my car wont pass inspection with this code lingering about. I want to keep this E for as long as I can because I am in love with it.
If anyone has any insight on what I can do, please let me know

I apologize if there are too many threads about this or if i missed anything, but I dont want to be caught at a loss here.
 

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correct, sorry I should have been more clear, by "tested" I meant trying out that solution without much confidence of it working, but yes the new sensor is still in there.

Thank you for moving my post, I am not a frequent topic starter so I apologize for not posting here to begin with
 

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I have a 2003 Element EX with about 186,000 miles on it. A month ago, my check engine light came on, then it would go off, and then it finally came on and stayed on. After a week or so, I went to the local auto parts store and after their diagnosis, it was determined to be a knock sensor. I went ahead and purchased an after market sensor at the parts store and came home to see how bad it was going to be. I got on this forum, read through the description of the job and the tips offered by others who had changed their knock sensor. After removing the plastic underside and being careful to not lose any clips, I found the sensor. I for one believe if you can see it, and put your hand on it, you are much further ahead. After using a large screw driver and a gentle twisting motion, the plug popped off with no problem. I was very careful not to push this too hard, as the last thing I wanted to do was break this plug. After that, I took a 1 1/16 deep well socket and reached up through the hole and put it on the sensor. I then fed the ratchet through the same opening and put it on the socket. With a gentle pull, the sensor released from the engine block. I removed the ratchet, and unscrewed the sensor by hand using the socket. Once it was removed, I repositioned myself inline with the car, so my head was towards the front and my feet were all the way under the car. I could then use my left hand (I am right handed but couldn't get my hand to bend that way) in the right position. I used a 10mm socket to hold the plug end of the sensor to get the threads started, like another poster showed in pictures, and that worked perfectly. Within 15 minutes, the new sensor was in. I fished the socket and ratchet back up there, secured it to the sensor and snugged it down. I then snapped the plastic cover back into place, and the job was done. $55 for the part, and 50 minutes for the job. The light went off in the first couple miles and has stayed off for the last month. It's not too bad of a job, but it is a tight fit with the wiring harness to the starter etc. If I had a smaller ratchet, it might have been a bit easier.
 

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For those of you who replaced the knock sensor, and it did NOT fix the problem, did anyone measure the resistance of the old sensor, or the new sensor?

I'm having the same issue with a P0325 code and I just unbolted my throttle body and moved the intake manifold away from the engine enough that I could easily remove the knock sensor connector and check it with an ohm meter.

I am reading an open circuit, so that tells me my knock sensor is bad. I am going to order a new one and replace it.

I'm just curious why I haven't seen more talk of resistance measurements in this thread, especially when the "Eric the Car Guy" video on page 2 tells you exactly how to measure the resistance.
 

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69tr6r, can you detail for others how you tested the knock sensor (ohms) via the knock sensor is a single wire terminal that produces it's own voltage signal? This will help others in the future.
 

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69tr6r, can you detail for others how you tested the knock sensor (ohms) via the knock sensor is a single wire terminal that produces it's own voltage signal? This will help others in the future.
If the knock sensor measures open (infinite resistance), then it's bad. I measured my existing knock sensor while it was in the car and it was an open circuit.

According to the video posted on page 2, you should get around 750k Ohms. But that is for a Subaru, I'm not sure what the Element sensor should be. I will check the resistance of the new one once I get it.
 

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Ok, the new knock sensor measures open circuit too. So this must be normal for the Element sensor. I installed the new sensor and within 10 miles my CE light has turned off. I will post back if my CE light comes on again.
 

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Ok, the new knock sensor measures open circuit too. So this must be normal for the Element sensor. I installed the new sensor and within 10 miles my CE light has turned off. I will post back if my CE light comes on again.
The knock sensor in question is a piezo-ceramic sensor and you will not read resistance through it. It will appear as a open circuit, which is why the service info does not direct one to measure its resistance.
 

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What happens if you delete the knock sensor? Remove it completely? Still throw a code? With so many of us driving around with defective ones, what difference does it make?
 

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Knocking is bad for engines. The ECU is designed to prevent it. Taking away information that the ECU needs could lead to damage.

Also, I'm guessing that disconnecting the sensor (you wouldn't need to remove it in any case) would throw an error code because the voltage (zero) would be out of the range that the computer expects to see.
 

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Know that. So does the ecu trigger a limp mode or safety mode when it believes the sensor is bad? My Element (LX Manual FWD) delivering 25-26mpg with thrown code. Doubt the motor is retarding ignition much of anything.
 
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