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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Finished installing these a couple days ago. I have put about 500 miles on them already and have done several adjustments. These things have an incredible range of adjustability and the E handles and drives so much better now. I am using Ingulls camber kits in the rear. A few setup tips for you on these if you like the ride height I have in the photos:

For the rear setup, adjust the shock body and spring perches as shown in the ksport/tein s-tech side by side picture. I have to measure the fronts yet.

In the front, I achieved the appropriate camber by adjusting the upper strut bolt as far outward as possible. I adjusted the camber plates up to to the very center of adjustment. After the alignment shop did toe adjustment and four wheel alignment, the camber ended up at -0.3 which is where I wanted it. In the rear, they will have to adjust the toe and camber for you. Have them turn the toe all the way out, and bring the camber out to -0.8 and it should have safe toe at that point. If you lower it anymore they I have, the stock suspension toe geometry cannot compensate and you will have too much toe. I also had to trim the fender liners away, because on really hard bumps it would rub ever so slightly.

In the manual it advised you to start the dampening at 16/32. I ended up after some driving setting them at 20 both front and rear, which was a good comprimise between firm (what I like) and my wife's comfort level.

As far as how high or low it can go, it can be raised or lowered to the extent of the factory suspension geometry. I did not measure but they appear to be able to maintain the stock ride height, and then some if you wanted to.

If you are having someone install these for you, make sure it's a shop that is very familiar with coilover systems, these could get damaged, or you could have really unsafe conditions if not properly setup and installed. If you are in Florida, I can help you out with these.

Fronts are 14" from center of the wheel to top of the wheel well, rears are 15.5" from center to top. This was as low as I could get it without rubbing. Can someone measure the stock height for comparison? Thanks!

Pics:











 

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Discussion Starter #6
To answer some questions... The ride is comperable to any coupe or sedan with coilovers on it. There is still a slight amount of body roll in comparison to a coupe or sedan, because the element is top heavy, but as far as body roll goes for suv, it barely has any. I am going to drive it around this week with the shocks set to the softest settings and get back to you all as far as how that feels. Me personally, my taste, is a rigid, firm ride. I know it's not a sports car, so I wasn't expecting it to be up to my standards, but honestly, I am more then happy with it. It's definitely firm enough. These coilovers are definitely the best thing I have done to it so far. When I would hit bumps with the Tein S-techs, it was jarring. These have about half the amount of jarring, which is right in my comfort zone.

The intake is made from a 2.75" 45 degree aluminum pipe purchased off ebay, and an AEM Dryflow air filter. I added a couple of threaded barb style fittings for the two vacuum lines, and a grommet for the air intake temp sensor. I have a thread on here for it.

The rear can be lowered about another 2.5" or so. The only problem is, the factory suspension geometry will only allow you to go that low by adding more negative camber. With the rear lowered to 14" from center of the wheel to the top of the wheel well like I have the front, you have to have almost -2.5 degrees of camber to get the toe in spec. Also, you would have to cut the metal lip off around the wheel well for the tire to not hit it. I am considering doing this, but only so I can tow stuff with it and not have to adjust the shock height.

As far as a better camera goes, it's a blackberry. I will try and update them with nicer ones. I can't retake the first pic unfortunetly, because they are on the car now lol.

So far, my favorite notes on these is, there is no body roll front to back, like when you brake, or in between shifts. It can corner better then a sportscar now. The rear spring and damper combo is perfect. You can really tell they upped the spring rates. The rear dampers are far from bottoming out, even lowered as much as I have. The camber adjustment on the front is fantastic.
They are a lot lighter then the factory peices.
 

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Very nice, would install mine if it wasn't 30 degrees and snow, salt, and pur crap weather, couple months. More pics of the back would be great please.
 

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I was planning to get another set of Coilovers pref with more adjustability like Ksports since theirs not to many options out there, and I came along to late with the GB, perhaps NismoGriff will do another one :-D, Thanks for the Informative info Mr2driver and enjoy you're ride.
 

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^^^NismoGriff will never do another Group Buy, but he can get them for you, he is still a retailer of them, give him a pm.
 

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Yes....although the orignal group buy price is no longer in effect, there has been another shipment of these that has come in and the price really isn't that much more. Contact me if your interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
A guy I work with has an '04 element that is completely stock. I measured and his measures 17 7/8" from center of the wheel to the top center of the wheel well. So it looks like I have lowered mine almost 4" in the front and 2.5" in the rear. Today I noticed the front is rubbed a slight amount on a really uneven incline leaving a shopping center, so I am going to raise it a 1/4". After I get it raised, I will take measurements of the front setup and post.
 

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The rear can be lowered about another 2.5" or so. The only problem is, the factory suspension geometry will only allow you to go that low by adding more negative camber. With the rear lowered to 14" from center of the wheel to the top of the wheel well like I have the front, you have to have almost -2.5 degrees of camber to get the toe in spec. Also, you would have to cut the metal lip off around the wheel well for the tire to not hit it. I am considering doing this, but only so I can tow stuff with it and not have to adjust the shock height.
You can roll the lip of the metal fender and cut the plastic fender to gain any necessary clearance. Also a camber kit will definitely take care of the negative camber. After you are done make sure you get an alignment done to correct any toe issues. Toe will destroy a tire faster than camber. Lastly, I wouldnt raise nothing. If anything go lower. I'm absolutely jealous of the k sports. My Tein Basics are just so basic.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You can roll the lip of the metal fender and cut the plastic fender to gain any necessary clearance. Also a camber kit will definitely take care of the negative camber. After you are done make sure you get an alignment done to correct any toe issues. Toe will destroy a tire faster than camber. Lastly, I wouldnt raise nothing. If anything go lower. I'm absolutely jealous of the k sports. My Tein Basics are just so basic.
I am using a camber kit. I am not looking to run more then -1.0 of camber in the rear, and if you lower it more then 3", you will have to have more negative camber because the toe can't go out any farther. I have the toe as far out as the lower control arm will allow, and I had to give it -0.8 to just barely get it into spec. Lowered a half inch more, and it require -1.5 degrees to get the toe into spec. For me, -1.5 looks stupid, and it will wear the tires down faster.
 

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Looking good! I am interested in reducing the jarring with springs on. These might be up my alley.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I re-measured it tonight on more level ground and found I had a couple of measurements off. The front is actually at 14.25 from center to top (3.75" drop) and the rear is 15" from center to the top (3" drop).

Ksport suggests making the springs "snug" and then adjust the strut housing to the desired height. This maximizes shock travel, and keeps the springs progressively absorbing bumps. I based these settings off making the springs "snug", then adding a 1/4" of preload. The more preload you add, the stiffer the springs will "feel", and the less shock travel you will get. In the rear, you will have to adjust the shock housing and spring perches together in order to get the maximum shock travel. The reason you have to do this, is because the spring perch rests on the shock housing, rather then on the shock itself.

I hope all this helps. These things really have almost infinite adjustment!

Here is a pic of the measurements I used on the front setup. It's a crappy pic, but it's 16.5" from top of the orange spring topper to the bottom of the strut housing, and 2.25" from the top of the strut houseing to the top of the orange spring perch.

 

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mr2driver, I really appreciate all your info/posts on the installation of these, it is all great info and hopefully this does indeed help others. Thanks!
 

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looks real good! thanks for writing it up and taking measurements and pics.
 
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