[NC-B17A]

I have been in contact with Kteller about a catback for the E as some of you know.
They saw the disscussion about a header on here & Michael asked a cpl questions about it. He has been in contact with someone that makes headers & if there is enough real interest they will make a header for the Element.
This is quoted form the email.
"Thomas, I have been talking to another friend of mine in Cali who makes headers. They made a lot of the original big Honda headers and have always been nothing but magic makers. He is willing to make a custom header for KTeller to offer our customers. We need a head count and a budget range, if they want it in mild or stainless or if we need to offer both for those on a smaller budget. We will get the Element in there so he can build them off the chassis and guarantee fitment and performance"

So guys & girls what material & price range for a header made for the Element not modded from a different design?

 

[CoffeeDragon]

I've been holding back on the performance mods but I think I'm finally getting the itch. I want to keep everything NA so starting with headers and exhaust seems to make sense.

I'm all about bang for the buck, without sacrificing quality.

If they could offer a quality header in mild for a reasonable price ($200 or less) I'd buy one.

 

[marksbug]

I think stainless would be the way to go. 4-2-1 or 4-1 or zoomies !!! just kidden on the zoomies. 1 5/8 tube to a well made merge collector, made so we can keep our cat ,just cut cat & add flange(clamp and or weld) . the tube now is 1.330 on my E so a 1 5/8 longer would work good, he should have the formula for the cc&rpm to get it right.

 

[NC-B17A]

So what do most of you want a "race header" that deletes the oem cat or something that would keep the cat?

 

[insane_sc]

I would want a 4-2-1 with a way to cut right before the stock cat and have a slip fit, this would be way way better than a 4-1 using the stock dp. I personally would like to see a 2 1/4" collector so I can run a new 2 1/4 high flow cat through the 2 1/4" gibson, just to keep it all even. I they wanted, they could easily make the header with the 2 1/4" collector then down to 2" so the guys that want to go up to 2 1/4" can easily cut off the 2" transition, I have seen this done plenty, it would be awesome. If they need me to, I can draw it up on cad/cam.
Later
Steve

oh yea, stainless for $250 ish shipped.

 

[Gboybst578]

oh yea, stainless for $250 ish shipped.

i would be willing to spend 250 also and i could pick it up in cali depending on where he is.

 

[NC-B17A]

The collector needs to be 2.5 IMO. If you will look most header that make good power have a 2.5 collector as that is a merge point. You can run what ever size exhaust you want after that with no problems. Even Honda does this look at the Type-R oem header it has a 2.5 collector with a smaller exhaust. On my 92 GSR with a B17 in it I have a Apexi CTR header with a 2.5 collector & a 60mm RS*R catback. I had a header with a 2.25 collector after the Apexi header the car pulls harder.
Anyway the guys making the header will do all the designing for the best HP & TQ gains with the K24 in the Element. The main question is if they build it will we buy it? & what do we want it built out of?

So stainless 250ish & keep the cat.
I for one would rather have a race header & install a high flow cat.
Keep the oppions coming.

 

[marksbug]

The collector needs to be 2.5 IMO. If you will look most header that make good power have a 2.5 collector as that is a merge point. You can run what ever size exhaust you want after that with no problems. Even Honda does this look at the Type-R oem header it has a 2.5 collector with a smaller exhaust. On my 92 GSR with a B17 in it I have a Apexi CTR header with a 2.5 collector & a 60mm RS*R catback. I had a header with a 2.25 collector after the Apexi header the car pulls harder.
Anyway the guys making the header will do all the designing for the best HP & TQ gains with the K24 in the Element. The main question is if they build it will we buy it? & what do we want it built out of?

So stainless 250ish & keep the cat.
I for one would rather have a race header & install a high flow cat.
Keep the oppions coming.

exzactly 2.5 on a stock header, not made for performance.2.5 is to big for this moter. 2.25 is good and with a ball joint that can be used like insane wants to do. a big collector looses it effectiveness and just becomes a means to hold the tubes togeather. remember it's a low rpm 4 cylinder were dealing with.not a 9000rpm v8 with 14 to 1 cr & monster cam.two 4 barrels that can swallow an E with out a burp.

 

[jely82]

Im new to this forum but I think that a stainless steel with ceramic coating?! I would like to keep that stock cat tho...

 

[mr2driver]

The OEM header and cat design is pretty decent, and can not be inproved all that much. A marginally larger tubed header with the factory cat and catpipe in place is pointless.

Furthermore, the only motors aftermarket companies make headers with 2.25 outlets for hondas are 1.6l motors.

4-2-1, 2.5" outlet, cat delete, please. (needs to meet the needs of those who would possibly install a tsx head or motor)

For those folks who want to choke it off, just weld in a cat to your exhaust right after the header with a 2.25 exit.

 

[insane_sc]

Furthermore, the only motors aftermarket companies make headers with 2.25 outlets for hondas are 1.6l motors.

Not true, there are companies that go to 2" with a ball connector, actually 2 big name companies for the TSX and Accord setups so ti can be ran through the stock size exhaust, and the gains are still great, they just keep the merge point small.
Also, alot of companies do 2.25" for the RSX and EP3 and that motor is rated alot better in power, ours are just torque monsters compared to them.

 

[jely82]

Im not really sure but does any one know of a good place to get custom header work in the dfw area?

 

[NC-B17A]

exzactly 2.5 on a stock header, not made for performance.2.5 is to big for this moter. 2.25 is good and with a ball joint that can be used like insane wants to do. a big collector looses it effectiveness and just becomes a means to hold the tubes togeather. remember it's a low rpm 4 cylinder were dealing with.not a 9000rpm v8 with 14 to 1 cr & monster cam.two 4 barrels that can swallow an E with out a burp.

Why don't you show us? You post in alot of peoples threads putting down everything because you did this & that with a bug. Buy that ebay header with a 2.25 collector you were talking about for $60 weld it up & dyno your E before & after. I'll bet you don't make the gains the same header design with a 2.5 collector will make!

To everyone but marksbug are you really interested in a header built thats better quality then the OBX one that will have dyno backed gains? I'm gonna guess its gonna be in the $400 range for stainless but thats just my thinking. If not then i'm not going to waste Ktellers time anymore on a header.

 

[insane_sc]

Nc- a lot of the problem with getting stuff made, as I found with the KSports, no one wants the stuff until its actually being made, its hard and sucks a lot of time out of you, ask my wife, lol.

 

[NC-B17A]

NismoGriff has way more patience then most people. I hand it to him I would have been done with messing with Ksport way before they ever started making the coilovers.
I know what your saying but its not worth a company putting in the effort & cost into make something if not enought people are going to buy it to even break even.

IMO those of you that want/need to keep the OEM cat should look at some of the shorty headers on the market to see what it would take to adapt to the Element.

So I guess would you guys buy a $400 header for your Element if it fit & made decent gains?

 

[eyecarvether4iam]

Im not really sure but does any one know of a good place to get custom header work in the dfw area?

t1 race development... Look em up.

If you come down to houston, LMK... I have a great fabricator here..

 

[mr2driver]

So I guess would you guys buy a $400 header for your Element if it fit & made decent gains?

$400 would be doable, especially if it was of similar design to that OBX one, but larger tubes, and some good stainless pipe with a 2.5" exit.

 

[marksbug]

Why don't you show us? You post in alot of peoples threads putting down everything because you did this & that with a bug. Buy that ebay header with a 2.25 collector you were talking about for $60 weld it up & dyno your E before & after. I'll bet you don't make the gains the same header design with a 2.5 collector will make!

To everyone but marksbug are you really interested in a header built thats better quality then the OBX one that will have dyno backed gains? I'm gonna guess its gonna be in the $400 range for stainless but thats just my thinking. If not then i'm not going to waste Ktellers time anymore on a header.

the bug is just one of many i have done but it is about the same cc.I have done from 50cc to well over 600 CI. for the better part of 40 years. I am sorry for questioning you .I did not realize that you have all the answers.I bow to you.

 

[Darth Raider]

The cost of buying a K Series 4-2-1 shorty is around $300 to $400. The cost to modify it at a muffler shop is around $200 to $300. So basically, you're looking at $500 to $600 to do it yourself. If a reputable after-market company was selling an Element header bolt-on unit in the $300 to $400 range, that's something that would translate into buyers. You're probably only looking at an 8 to maybe 10HP gain, but hey, every little bit helps! ;-)

Chief

 

[gruvncubn]

$300-$400 for a direct bolt-on from head to cat would be right on target for most people looking for a header. I had started a group buy to try to get manufactures interested in building some headers for the Element. http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61401 I believe we were last at 24 people interested in the buy. If you do the math I am sure that will get the wheels moven. Hope that helps.