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Discussion Starter #1
Thought I had an easy task ahead of me today - take the broken license plate cover off, and put the new registration sticker on. Left side bolt came off easily enough. Right side, I thought to myself, hmm, this one is really sticking *SNAP*.

Dagnabbit, broke the bolt off, about half-way extracted. About a half hour after the hardware store closed, too! Guess I'll have to stop by there during the week to get an easy out set and/or some left-handed drill bits to extract the sucker. Oh, and some replacement stainless bolts methinks as well.

Anyone have recommendations for what to look for in an easy-out set? Guessing I should probably grease the bolts a little bit too or something, to help keep the rust down.

For now, one bolt and a piece of wire will have to hold things in place.
 

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IMO easyouts are among the tools that demand top quality (Snap-on, S-K, Mac, etc.), even if means just buying the size you need at the moment rather than a set. Same goes for flare nut wrenches and socket-drive U joints.

Prior to extracting the bolt, apply Liquid Wrench while lightly tapping with a hammer/drift. Let sit. Repeat.
 

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Yup.

Soak good w/ WD-40, PB Blaster, CRC ScrewsLoose, Kroil (my personal fav) or other penetrant. Tapping w/ a punch will help too (as already mentioned)

Try grabbing what is left w/ a pair of vise grips.

Drilling out will wok too. Left or Right hand, as there is room on the inside of the tailgate for the screw "stub" to go if it turns "in" (RH) instead of "out."(LH)

I like the square style EZ-Outs/ "Screw Extractors".

(hard to find though) mine are from DML, a companty now defunct thanks to takeover by the Robert-Bosch Corp. :mad:


The screws are M6x1.0 if ya wanna get a tap tp clean up the threads.

I like SS screws w/ a dab of Silcone Caulk/Sealant (typical RTV from the tool box) on the threads. Prevents corrosion and unwanted loosening....but not as heavy-duty as Lock-Tite.

Will
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok, I had immediately thought about drilling it out, but thought I ran the risk of driving it deeper in there. Tried popping off the liftgate cover, but that didn't give access there either.

No go on the vice grips, it snapped flush with the metal (bolt got about half way out before breaking).

Guess I'll see what the Ace has as far as an extractor go, and maybe pick up a tap to clean up my handiwork. Oh, and a center punch regardless!

Yup.

Soak good w/ WD-40, PB Blaster, CRC ScrewsLoose, Kroil (my personal fav) or other penetrant. Tapping w/ a punch will help too (as already mentioned)

Try grabbing what is left w/ a pair of vise grips.

Drilling out will wok too. Left or Right hand, as there is room on the inside of the tailgate for the screw "stub" to go if it turns "in" (RH) instead of "out."(LH)

I like the square style EZ-Outs/ "Screw Extractors".

(hard to find though) mine are from DML, a companty now defunct thanks to takeover by the Robert-Bosch Corp. :mad:


The screws are M6x1.0 if ya wanna get a tap tp clean up the threads.

I like SS screws w/ a dab of Silcone Caulk/Sealant (typical RTV from the tool box) on the threads. Prevents corrosion and unwanted loosening....but not as heavy-duty as Lock-Tite.

Will
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'll keep that in mind (single vs. set) but will probably go with whatever my local Ace has in stock.

IMO easyouts are among the tools that demand top quality (Snap-on, S-K, Mac, etc.), even if means just buying the size you need at the moment rather than a set. Same goes for flare nut wrenches and socket-drive U joints.

Prior to extracting the bolt, apply Liquid Wrench while lightly tapping with a hammer/drift. Let sit. Repeat.
 

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Ok, I had immediately thought about drilling it out, but thought I ran the risk of driving it deeper in there. ..
If it drives "in" w/ a drill bit it ain't a big deal. The threaded inserts in the tailgate are about 3/8" thick. The broken chunk of screw will just fall off inside the tailgate. It may rattle around inside a bit though, but you might be able to retrieve it w/ a magnet from the inside cover if it rattles/vibrates and bugs you.

Will
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If it drives "in" w/ a drill bit it ain't a big deal. The threaded inserts in the tailgate are about 3/8" thick. The broken chunk of screw will just fall off inside the tailgate. It may rattle around inside a bit though, but you might be able to retrieve it w/ a magnet from the inside cover if it rattles/vibrates and bugs you.

Will
Hmm, maybe I'll try that first, would be the cheapest solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, stupid question time. I've got all the parts, and drilled the bolt with a 5/64 bit as directed on the extractor package. I can get the extractor to bit in as well. However, what am I supposed to drive it with??? My drill chuck will just slip on the square end, and my vice-grip pliers seem to slip as well. Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Crud, some quick searching, looks like I need a tap wrench to use it. Guess it'll be another trip to Ace for that!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Oh, and as far as a tap to clean up the threads - should it be labelled as an M6x1.0, or will it be marked differently than a bolt is?
 

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:)

Yup...you should use a tap wrench to turn the extractor counterclockwise. (Left). ;-)

Don't use power tools!

You can use a regular wrench if you're in a hurry/lazy/broke/ain't got a tap wrench/can't find one/late for yer wedding-first kid-black friday shopping date-etc. or some similar reason. A tap wrench is still yer best bet...and you'll need it to turn the tap anyway (unless ya wanna use a regular open-end wrench for that too :rolleyes: )

Yes, the tap will be labeled M6 x 1.0 or 6mm x 1 or very similar. 6mm is the diameter of the bolt (or tap) and 1.0 is the "pitch" of the threads. (The pitch is the distance from one thread peak to the next)

US threads are measured diameter x number of threads per inch....fer example 1/4-20

Although it is more critical in cases where you're starting threads from scratch....Go slow w/ the tap. A few turns in, then back it out, and repeat. You want to clean out the threads.....not just force the tap in there!

Good luck.

Will
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Never before has a fastener (let alone half a fastener) given me so much grief. Ran over to Ace, picked up the smallest tap handle they had (since it's such a small easy out, only requiring a 5/64 pilot hole).

No matter how much I tighten the dang handle, the EZ-Out just spins as soon as it gets latched into the bolt. So, either I bought the wrong dang type of handle, or something else is going awry. Anyone have ideas?
 

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No matter how much I tighten the dang handle, the EZ-Out just spins as soon as it gets latched into the bolt. So, either I bought the wrong dang type of handle, or something else is going awry. Anyone have ideas?
The tap handle should be nice and snug.....and not slip.

Some of the sliding t-handle type w/ a chuck type end are hard to get tight. Use some pliers.



Try making it tight before insertingthe EZ-OUT....the extractor should be bigger than the closed jaws. Try going up to the next extractor size. A bigger hole and bigger extractor make the job easier, w/ less chance of snapping the extractor.




If you've got the room to use 'em I like the big bar handles.



Often too big.....but plenty beefy (sometimes too beefy, watch you don't snap an extractor).

Will
 

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Discussion Starter #17
1) There are a couple of handle sizes; yours might be too big for the bit
2) Handles often have two grabbing areas, the larger on the outside (bottom) and a smaller one inside. Make sure the bit is pushed in far enough before you tighten down the collar.
Yeah, I had that thing in there as deep as I could get it, still slipped on me.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yeah, I bought the chuck type you show in your first picture. I did try tightening it with a pair of pliers too, but still the same results. I think I'll head to the other Ace and see if they have one that fits the extractor.

My concern with going up a size is that it might get too big for that bolt that's being pulled out. Maybe one size up would be ok.

As far as the other wrench goes, I don't think there's room with how the license plate area is recessed on the tailgate.

Hmm, the quest continues! (stupid bolt!)

The tap handle should be nice and snug.....and not slip.

Some of the sliding t-handle type w/ a chuck type end are hard to get tight. Use some pliers.



Try making it tight before insertingthe EZ-OUT....the extractor should be bigger than the closed jaws. Try going up to the next extractor size. A bigger hole and bigger extractor make the job easier, w/ less chance of snapping the extractor.

If you've got the room to use 'em I like the big bar handles.



Often too big.....but plenty beefy (sometimes too beefy, watch you don't snap an extractor).

Will
 

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My concern with going up a size is that it might get too big for that bolt that's being pulled out. Maybe one size up would be ok.

Hmm, the quest continues! (stupid bolt!)
Maybe you'll get lucky and the next size up extracor will fit the handle ya got now.

Even though you risk drilling close to the threads, a bigger hole/extractor is a good idea whenever possible.

You could try a plain old ordinary open end wrench on the extractor if ya want. Just hold everything straight and steady.

Will
 

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Just noticed....:confused:

The size you mention - 5/64" is for a Number 1 size extractor. They are normally recomended for M3 or M4 screws.

A size 2, uses a 7/64" bit, and is good for M5 and M6 screws.

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For refrence a 5/64" bit makes a .078" or 1.98mm hole.
a 7/64" makes a .109" or 2.78mm hole

a M6 screw is about .24" About 2x the size of the 7/64" drill. Just try and stay as close to center as possible and you'll have plenty of room. :wink:

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Sorry I didn't catch it sooner.

Will
 
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